1984 k10 700r4 won't shift out of 2nd please help!

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Spookee

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I put a question on the group looking for a good shop, so if you join you'll likely see it on the top of the feed. Hopefully there will already be some responses on there. Its a solid group and the admin is a great guy(BJ Parden) who has lived in the area for a very long time. The only thing I know about that Advance Transmissions is that their reviews are terrible on Yelp.
Thanks so much, I really appreciate it! I asked to join the group, just waiting on approval!
 

Spookee

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Not necessarily guaranteeed tho, do your shift detents on the column match cleanly the ones on the trans> fi they do, you dont have to worry, but if you shift it down, say, 2 spots, you are very clearly in reverse? If ylou go down 1 from there youre in neutral? and when you do that push the shifter forward to the dash to slowly travel each detent
Thank you I’ll explore this during the weekend!
 

NickTransmissions

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Thank you for this information! What would cause this to happen?
You're welcome

Potential causes:
- Poorly set up and/or misassembled 3-4 clutch
- Leaking 2-3 accumulator check ball capsule (rare)
- Turbine shaft sealing ring (2nd from bottom, bottom ring or both) pinched upon installation of the pump assembly into the case
- Worn, non-servicable pump assembly (excessive rotor/slide and working surfaces clearance or worn PR valve/PR valve bore)
- Massive cross leaks at the pump to case or valve body-spacer plate and/or spacer plate to case surface
- Valve body wear (2-3 or 3-2 downshift valve bores) - not likely
- Misassembled TV valve, TV valve bore excessively worn, TV plunger and/or sleeve excessively worn (i don't know what valve was installed but most of us install the updated valve from the Transgo Jr shift kit which should have been done when the trans was rebuilt, not after - same w/the plunger/sleeve kit from Sonnax)
- Partial restriction in the system (cooler, lines, etc)
- Incorrectly set up or maladjusted TV cable/TV cable geometry incorrect

There may be others, but those come to mind off the top of my head.
 

HotRodPC

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You're welcome

Potential causes:
- Poorly set up and/or misassembled 3-4 clutch
- Leaking 2-3 accumulator check ball capsule (rare)
- Turbine shaft sealing ring (2nd from bottom, bottom ring or both) pinched upon installation of the pump assembly into the case
- Worn, non-servicable pump assembly (excessive rotor/slide and working surfaces clearance or worn PR valve/PR valve bore)
- Massive cross leaks at the pump to case or valve body-spacer plate and/or spacer plate to case surface
- Valve body wear (2-3 or 3-2 downshift valve bores) - not likely
- Misassembled TV valve, TV valve bore excessively worn, TV plunger and/or sleeve excessively worn (i don't know what valve was installed but most of us install the updated valve from the Transgo Jr shift kit which should have been done when the trans was rebuilt, not after - same w/the plunger/sleeve kit from Sonnax)
- Partial restriction in the system (cooler, lines, etc)
- Incorrectly set up or maladjusted TV cable/TV cable geometry incorrect

There may be others, but those come to mind off the top of my head.
Hopefully his builder isn't like Monster Transmissions. Everyone has smoked 3/4 clutch pack, it's the installers fault, he didn't adjust the cable right. It's never those other things. NEVER !!! Don't ever buy a Monster Transmisison, especially a 700r4. They always find blame to the installer rather than own it and make it right. I've heard it from several people. But it is common to have that cable set wrong, and it's very common for shops to blame you, OR say the cable stretched and that's not under warranty, just the internal parts are covered. Just saying this so you know to get a reputable builder. And if you do install it yourself, and he's close. Set the cable to the best of your ability, then limp it light throttle to his shop and see if he'll check that adjustment for you just to be sure. He should be happy to do it for you if he intends to honestly honor any warranty.
.
 

NickTransmissions

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Hopefully his builder isn't like Monster Transmissions. Everyone has smoked 3/4 clutch pack, it's the installers fault, he didn't adjust the cable right. It's never those other things. NEVER !!! Don't ever buy a Monster Transmisison, especially a 700r4. They always find blame to the installer rather than own it and make it right. I've heard it from several people. But it is common to have that cable set wrong, and it's very common for shops to blame you, OR say the cable stretched and that's not under warranty, just the internal parts are covered. Just saying this so you know to get a reputable builder. And if you do install it yourself, and he's close. Set the cable to the best of your ability, then limp it light throttle to his shop and see if he'll check that adjustment for you just to be sure. He should be happy to do it for you if he intends to honestly honor any warranty.
.
Agreed - ive rebuild several Monsters and they leave a lot to be desired...I also provide a brand new detent cable with all my 700R4s and 200-4R builds to eliminate the stretched/worn cable scenario as it is common for them to not hold or simply snap.

Even when the customer burns up the 3-4 pack due to poor cable set up/adjustment or whatever the case, many times ill just charge them for a new paper/rubber kit and 3-4 pack w/backing-apply plates, have them bring me the trans and I do the repair while they wait, assuming I have the time...gives them an opportunity to see what the inside of their trans is like and for me to show them the relationship between various transmission parts and the TV system.

I get over half of my business from referrals, including from customers i help out like that so it pays dividends for all...
 

HotRodPC

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I think one of the biggest issues is, people are not aware that the adjustment of the TV cable is so critical. It's not forgiving at all like the Th350 detent cable. I once bought a K1500 for cheap cheap cuz it only had 1-2. The kid got the truck, it had a brand new Eddy EPS intake, new Eddy Carb, and headers. Lost 3-4 about 3 days later. I'm sure he was probably hot rodding it around too. When I went to look at the truck I made the mistake of mentioning why it lost 3/4 and dad was so pissed at this 18yo kid, I told you not to put that damn BS on that truck. If you didn't do that, it would still be running just fine. I made a ridiculously lower offer expecting a counter, and the dad just yelled out, hell yes we'll take it, just get this POS outta my driveway, it just makes me sick knowing this is why it needs a transmission. I bought the truck for about what he spent on the headers, intake and carb and tow barr'ed it home about 25 miles. Put a Th350 in it drove it a year and then sold it for about 4x what I had in it. I honestly think if people actually knew how critical it was, they'd be sure to get it right but they just don't know. In this case, he didn't think of the geometry correction, and didn't even have the cable hooked to the carb linkage at all. Bad Bad News. NO Throttle Pressure to the trans whatsoever. Trans thought it was doing nothing but idling as far as fluid pressure.
 

HotRodPC

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AuroraGirl

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Im really glad I didnt know what a tv cable was when I had my first car
because I would have played with it and probably burnt the 440-t4 right up
 

AuroraGirl

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Agreed - ive rebuild several Monsters and they leave a lot to be desired...I also provide a brand new detent cable with all my 700R4s and 200-4R builds to eliminate the stretched/worn cable scenario as it is common for them to not hold or simply snap.

Even when the customer burns up the 3-4 pack due to poor cable set up/adjustment or whatever the case, many times ill just charge them for a new paper/rubber kit and 3-4 pack w/backing-apply plates, have them bring me the trans and I do the repair while they wait, assuming I have the time...gives them an opportunity to see what the inside of their trans is like and for me to show them the relationship between various transmission parts and the TV system.

I get over half of my business from referrals, including from customers i help out like that so it pays dividends for all...
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
is this accurate for the rwd transmissions? The clip i linked is like 20 seconds about the tv cable
 

Spookee

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@ everyone - just wanted to say thank you again for all of your knowledge and time! I really appreciate all the information in this thread and for pointing me in the right direction. YouTube & my shop manual didn’t get me very far … :)
Just a quick update, we are getting the truck towed to a trans shop that came recommended by the squarebody fb group Bextreme04 hooked me up with. They also thought it was the 3/4 pack but will have to take out the transmission to confirm
 

squaredeal91

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Im just curious. When the transmission was serviced who did it and how did it get done? Pan drop and filter change? Or was it done at a shop with a plug your filter machine?
 

vwwindham

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I have a 82 c10 2 wheel drive with a th350 and 350 5.7l. I just had a similar thing with my transmission. All cables were good and where they needed to be. I removed the governor and inspected it then cleaned it. No help. My next step was a vacuum module on the back right side of the transmission. Ok i said easy $14 at the auto store. Soon as i got under the truck and about to disconnect the hose line it felt very loose. So i looked at the line behind the carb and yep it had come disconnected from the intake manifold. Couple of clamps and it was on. Went for a test run and it worked even better than before.. returned the vacuum module. Hope this is the same issue for you, it drove me nuts for 2 weeks untill I finally got time to look
 

NickTransmissions

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I have a 82 c10 2 wheel drive with a th350 and 350 5.7l. I just had a similar thing with my transmission. All cables were good and where they needed to be. I removed the governor and inspected it then cleaned it. No help. My next step was a vacuum module on the back right side of the transmission. Ok i said easy $14 at the auto store. Soon as i got under the truck and about to disconnect the hose line it felt very loose. So i looked at the line behind the carb and yep it had come disconnected from the intake manifold. Couple of clamps and it was on. Went for a test run and it worked even better than before.. returned the vacuum module. Hope this is the same issue for you, it drove me nuts for 2 weeks untill I finally got time to look
Glad you were able to get it fixed! That said, it wont be the problem here as the 700R4 doesnt use a vacuum modulator. The modulator system for managing line pressure and p/t shifting was replaced with the throttle valve system for the same purposes in the 700R4.
 

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its weird how the powerglide uses the same modulator as a th350, a th400, and a 4t60e , but one of those is electronically shifted but uses vacuum line pressure, one just has a single shift s suppose line pressure there too, the other needs it for shift timing and line pressure, and idk about the th400 but interesting,
 

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