Sbc 350 lifter tick help

[Grit dog]

It sounds to me like #7 and I’m pretty confident it’s coming from there after hearing it run with it off but will check the little things before ripping it apart

Did you tighten it a bit and see? Or did I miss something?

 

[Ryanbrown36]

Did you tighten it a bit and see? Or did I miss something?

I tried adjusting it while running but made the noise the entire time, I just hear it from that rocker but I can’t be sure it’s that, I took the rocker off and everything looked good too

 

[Grit dog]

I tried adjusting it while running but made the noise the entire time, I just hear it from that rocker but I can’t be sure it’s that, I took the rocker off and everything looked good too

Ok. I feel you can reasonably eliminate that then. Much more knowledgeable folks here then I for suggestions. Good luck getting to the bottom of it.
Beauty of a truck though! Not many that nice in your parts I’d imagine.

 

[Ryanbrown36]

Ok. I feel you can reasonably eliminate that then. Much more knowledgeable folks here then I for suggestions. Good luck getting to the bottom of it.
Beauty of a truck though! Not many that nice in your parts I’d imagine.

I would like to hope so lol, thanks for the help. Appreciate that, ya not many around me but see the odd one out and about

 

[Edelbrock]

Maybe try a different weight oil?
Engine flush?
A quart of transmission fluid in the oil?

 

[Edelbrock]

I have have a similar problem with a SB400. No lifter noise at all, unless I run the engine at 3000 RPM+ for an extended period of time. Then I get a LOUD lifter tap.

So lets say you rev it up to 4K frequently - no problem.
Run it at 4K for 30 seconds - no problem.
Run it at 3500 RPM for 10 minutes - LOUD tap tap tap that is at all RPMs.

With the tap there, if you let it idle for 5 minutes of tapping, the sound slowly diminishes and then goes away completely.

I tried switching from 10w40 to 20w50, which was no help.

So basically I don't have any issues, as long as I avoid sustained high RPMs (don't go 75 MPH for long periods of time).


Not trying to hijack the thread - I just figure that this may produce more ideas and conversation that may help us both solve our lifter problems.

 

[Ryanbrown36]

I have have a similar problem with a SB400. No lifter noise at all, unless I run the engine at 3000 RPM+ for an extended period of time. Then I get a LOUD lifter tap.

So lets say you rev it up to 4K frequently - no problem.
Run it at 4K for 30 seconds - no problem.
Run it at 3500 RPM for 10 minutes - LOUD tap tap tap that is at all RPMs.

With the tap there, if you let it idle for 5 minutes of tapping, the sound slowly diminishes and then goes away completely.

I tried switching from 10w40 to 20w50, which was no help.

So basically I don't have any issues, as long as I avoid sustained high RPMs (don't go 75 MPH for long periods of time).


Not trying to hijack the thread - I just figure that this may produce more ideas and conversation that may help us both solve our lifter problems.

Yes I may try some different oil. no worries at all, the more opinions and ideas the better lol

 

[Ryanbrown36]

Maybe try a different weight oil?
Engine flush?
A quart of transmission fluid in the oil?

I bought an additive for the lifter noise with a detergent and also did about 400ml of atf, so basically a quart or trans oil. But no luck with that yet

 

[Ricko1966]

It sounds to me like #7 and I’m pretty confident it’s coming from there after hearing it run with it off but will check the little things before ripping it apart

OK @ohyeahjay has just showed you what I was talking about,that lifter wasn't spinning or at least not spinning freely,that's why I asked about the pushrod spinning with the engine running.If the pushrod is spinning,the lifter is spinning. His lifter is dished,that's what you don't want,you also don't want flat. If the bad lifter still has a crown on ots face and the pushrod is spinning,you have a very good chance. @gritdog told you ,you can cut the top out of an old valve cover to have access to the valve train with the engine running,it's a good tip to cut down on the mess,I just run them with one valve cover off,then the other then cleanup afterwards.

 

[Ricko1966]

I would like to hope so lol, thanks for the help. Appreciate that, ya not many around me but see the odd one out and about

Tell us how you were adjusting them. Now A little flat tappet cam knowledge,when the cam lobe comes around and starts to lift the lifter,it doesn't hit dead center and doesn't just pushup on the lifter. As it pushes up since it's pushing off center the lifter spins as it goes up. Since the lifter spins it prevents the lifter and cam from just wiping across each other,which wipes down the lobe and takes the crown off the lifter,because they are rubbing not spinning. InCam and a lifters are also splash oiled and work hardened,so you have to keep the rpms up for the first 20 minute,just to be sure there is enough oil while the cam and lifters harden. Too stiff of springs on break in is another cam killer,excessive pressures before the cam has work hardened. Anyway if your lifter still has a crown you very likely will get away with swapping it. If it's flat or dished the cam is likely damaged also.

 

[Ryanbrown36]

Tell us how you were adjusting them. Now A little flat tappet cam knowledge,when the cam lobe comes around and starts to lift the lifter,it doesn't hit dead center and doesn't just pushup on the lifter. As it pushes up since it's pushing off center the lifter spins as it goes up. Since the lifter spins it prevents the lifter and cam from just wiping across each other,which wipes down the lobe and takes the crown off the lifter,because they are rubbing not spinning. InCam and a lifters are also splash oiled and work hardened,so you have to keep the rpms up for the first 20 minute,just to be sure there is enough oil while the cam and lifters harden. Too stiff of springs on break in is another cam killer,excessive pressures before the cam has work hardened. Anyway if your lifter still has a crown you very likely will get away with swapping it. If it's flat or dished the cam is likely damaged also.

I was adjusting by tightening until there was a a bit of drag when spinning the pushrod and then 3/4 of a turn in after that, if I remove a rocker and pushrod I should be able to see the top of the lifter right?

 

[Ricko1966]

I was adjusting by tightening until there was a a bit of drag when spinning the pushrod and then 3/4 of a turn in after that, if I remove a rocker and pushrod I should be able to see the top of the lifter right?

Was it running? Were you rotating the engine to different positions? No you will not be able to see the base of the lifter

 

[Ryanbrown36]

Was it running? Were you rotating the engine to different positions? No you will not be able to see the base of the lifter

I rotated about 30 degrees at a time tightening each rocker until resistance and continued until they all had no play and then did 3/4 of a turn in on each. Probably did two full rotations to ensure they all had a bit of resistance when rolling the pushrod in my fingers.

 

[Ricko1966]

I rotated about 30 degrees at a time tightening each rocker until resistance and continued until they all had no play and then did 3/4 of a turn in on each. Probably did two full rotations to ensure they all had a bit of resistance when rolling the pushrod in my fingers.

So you didn't follow book procedure? I do them running,or I look up book procedure on what valves to adjust at what rotation of the engine,or I look at rotor position to know which valves to adjust. If you didn't do it following one of those ways there's is no telling where your lifters were on the cam lobes when you adjusted them . Read up on adjusting valves. Do it by the book. Reading the procedure and following it exactly,will be better than us giving you the condensed version so nothing gets left to interpretation.