Repair or replace radiator?

[Frankenchevy]

I've been stripping the engine bay, preparing for paint and new engine install.

I've never lost water from my cooling system. the level has always remained full. I found some residue near one of the necks that looks like it was caused by a tiny pinhole misting in. again, every time I opened the radiator cap the coolant has always appeared topped up and clean looking.

so I was going to have the radiator tested and repaired if necessary at a radiator shop. I was ballparked at $160. a new radiator replacement ranges from $230 for a Champion at jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cooling-Systems/166/CC716/10002/-1#reviewTab that gets good reviews to a Mishimoto at summit for $320 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmrad-ck-78x/reviews/?filterReviews=ThreeStar

what are the benefits to repairing oem radiator other than it looking better than the aluminum bling pieces and the $70-160 difference? which is the better radiator stock or aftermarket aluminum? cost isn't that big of a factor, as I'm looking at it being spread out over the lifetime of the vehicle. just curious about the pros and cons of each type.

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[Snoots]

That looks to be a 2-core. If you're putting in a new engine (a Big Block we hope) you're gonna need a bigger unit. If cost is not a problem, get a 4-core.

 

[74 Shortbed]

New one!!!..

 

[Camar068]

ballparked $160? Not that I've had a lot of them repaired, but man that seems really high. Locally I had mine repaired (pinhole) for $45 including cleaning it up, repair, testing, and painting.

 

[CSFJ]

That looks to be a 2-core. If you're putting in a new engine (a Big Block we hope) you're gonna need a bigger unit. If cost is not a problem, get a 4-core.

Thats the original from the diesel that came in the m1008 trucks.

 

[CSFJ]

I've been stripping the engine bay, preparing for paint and new engine install.

I've never lost water from my cooling system. the level has always remained full. I found some residue near one of the necks that looks like it was caused by a tiny pinhole misting in. again, every time I opened the radiator cap the coolant has always appeared topped up and clean looking.

so I was going to have the radiator tested and repaired if necessary at a radiator shop. I was ballparked at $160. a new radiator replacement ranges from $230 for a Champion at jegs http://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cooling-Systems/166/CC716/10002/-1#reviewTab that gets good reviews to a Mishimoto at summit for $320 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmrad-ck-78x/reviews/?filterReviews=ThreeStar

what are the benefits to repairing oem radiator other than it looking better than the aluminum bling pieces and the $70-160 difference? which is the better radiator stock or aftermarket aluminum? cost isn't that big of a factor, as I'm looking at it being spread out over the lifetime of the vehicle. just curious about the pros and cons of each type.

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I guess it would depend on how you're going to plumb it, and if you wanted to use any of the original features of the diesel radiator as they were in the cucv trucks, i.e., oil cooler, trans, whatever else they ran. If you're not, then there's not a whole lot of reason to reuse the original. Not to say it wouldn't have value to others, it is an original diesel cooling unit, after all

 

[Frankenchevy]

That looks to be a 2-core. If you're putting in a new engine (a Big Block we hope) you're gonna need a bigger unit. If cost is not a problem, get a 4-core.

not sure, but it's physical dimensions are approximately 34"w x 21"t

edit: it's getting a vortec 350, nothing special.

 

[Frankenchevy]

ballparked $160? Not that I've had a lot of them repaired, but man that seems really high. Locally I had mine repaired (pinhole) for $45 including cleaning it up, repair, testing, and painting.

everything is more expensive here, lol. they gave that quote, sight unseen. I said ballpark a pressure test and a few repairs. shop rates are over $110/hour now in CA. an hour and change seems about right for the repair.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I guess it would depend on how you're going to plumb it, and if you wanted to use any of the original features of the diesel radiator as they were in the cucv trucks, i.e., oil cooler, trans, whatever else they ran. If you're not, then there's not a whole lot of reason to reuse the original. Not to say it wouldn't have value to others, it is an original diesel cooling unit, after all

I'm replumbing the entire truck but wouldn't mind the stock routing. I'd like to keep the trans piped into the driver side bungs as it was, keeping the existing external in-line trans oil cooler the PO installed. I haven't given much thought into an external engine oil cooler piped through the passenger side other than asking you and Craig about it a month ago.

I don't like the look of the aluminum radiators as much as this one. just wasn't sure if there was a significant performance gain from going aluminum. either way, I found a dual fan setup on summit that fits the stock radiator of mishimoto replacement just fine.

so you'd keep it is what you were getting at?

 

[CSFJ]

I'm replumbing the entire truck but wouldn't mind the stock routing. I'd like to keep the trans piped into the driver side bungs as it was, keeping the existing external in-line trans oil cooler the PO installed. I haven't given much thought into an external engine oil cooler piped through the passenger side other than asking you and Craig about it a month ago.

I don't like the look of the aluminum radiators as much as this one. just wasn't sure if there was a significant performance gain from going aluminum. either way, I found a dual fan setup on summit that fits the stock radiator of mishimoto replacement just fine.

so you'd keep it is what you were getting at?

I would keep it, but I'm keeping my truck mostly true to how it was built. With everything that's been changed on yours I guess what I was getting at, is there's really no reason for you to not go aftermarket. I tend to look at things more in a restoration perspective, so the old brass and copper design appeals to me. If i was looking to build something more performance oriented, I wouldn't hesitate to look into a new aluminum radiator. Especially if I could get one built to fit the application better. (By this I mean having inlet and outlets on the radiator sized and placed where they would route better, than trying to adapt one that was 35 years old and designed for a completely different engine.)

 

[Frankenchevy]

I would keep it, but I'm keeping my truck mostly true to how it was built. With everything that's been changed on yours I guess what I was getting at, is there's really no reason for you to not go aftermarket. I tend to look at things more in a restoration perspective, so the old brass and copper design appeals to me. If i was looking to build something more performance oriented, I wouldn't hesitate to look into a new aluminum radiator. Especially if I could get one built to fit the application better. (By this I mean having inlet and outlets on the radiator sized and placed where they would route better, than trying to adapt one that was 35 years old and designed for a completely different engine.)

I agree in that I want everything to look as close to period correct as possible, whether diesel or gas... as far as numbers matching, well that ship sailed long before I got the truck. I want it to look 70s/80s under the hood though, otherwise I would have gone LS. being that a 327 is coming out, the routing of the 350 stuff should all be the same. I'll get this radiator looked at. hopefully it's a straight forward job. it didn't leak before..

 

[Rusty Nail]

Ya. That sounds REALLY high to repair a tank gasket!
My opinion is always to repair. They cool better and are more durable. Are you trying to save weight by swapping aluminum for brass? No. Is it a race truck? No. If you are running an M1008 radiator, you can't get a better one than that. Anything else is a downgrade and $160 may be a square deal! Best wishes.

 

[Frankenchevy]

Ya. That sounds REALLY high to repair a tank gasket!
My opinion is always to repair. They cool better and are more durable. Are you trying to save weight by swapping aluminum for brass? No. Is it a race truck? No. If you are running an M1008 radiator, you can't get a better one than that. Anything else is a downgrade and $160 may be a square deal! Best wishes.

I don't like the way the aluminum radiator looks. what is a tank gasket?

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I don't like the way the aluminum radiator looks. what is a tank gasket?

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I think they class it up a bit. Lol

 

[Frankenchevy]

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I think they class it up a bit. Lol

that's not bad, it doesn't look super shiny. the ones I saw on summit looked like a mirror. you think you could paint that black if you wanted without hurting the cooling?

your front plate looks good. I've got a few old rail spikes from the Sacramento railroad.