Recommend rear wheel cylinder?

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Blue Ox

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You did look at both sides of the carrier, right? Sorry if that seems way too obvious, but I can't see what you're doing from here. I don't think it's common for those bolts to break, but I guess anything is possible.

I also remember the bolt being much shorter than that.
 

88SUB

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I'm wondering if I have non c-clip
Was looking through videos and this guy was replacing his jeep bearings and mentioned that if the plate with the lug studs has a hole, it's non c-clip and the axle is held by a backing plate behide that plate

I know it's Jeep but wondering if it follows for all vehicles.

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88SUB

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This is mine
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Blue Ox

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Could be. I working from memory of the original rear on my 1500 suburban. So try taking the nuts off. What's the worst that could happen?

And yes, from that angle the plate looks like a retainer.
 

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I can't remember what the original owner told me about the rear end. I know he mentioned DANA but not sure if that was front and rear or what. Want to say DANA 60 for some reason

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Now that you mention it, I should have looked closer. That doesn't look like a corporate housing. Dana 60 sounds reasonable. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

But still, it's a semi-floater. It's either C-clips or a retainer plate. Take the plate off and see if you can get the axle out.
 

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Seems like my only option right now. Won't hurt anything .... hopefully haha
Thanks for the help no matter big or small.

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Thanks. I try. I don't always succeed, but I try.

Unless you're lucky you're probably going to need a puller to get the bearings out of the housing. Do you have something to do that?
 

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Yeah I've got the tools. It'll get done one way or another!

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Looks like you have somehow got a 1/2 ton truck with a D60 rear axle. The 60's normally were only installed in 3/4 & 1 ton trucks.

Look on the lower right hand gusset - as shown below. You will find a 2 digit number in the casting. You should be able to read it through the rust. But if you can't, just hit it with a wire brush. Sure looks like a 60 from what I can make out in these images:

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88SUB

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I actually looked up an old text from original owner and it is indeed a D60 with a custom built driveshaft

* just confirmed by cleaning off area and it is a 60 under all that gunk.
 
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chengny

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I actually looked up an old text from original owner and it is indeed a D60 with a custom built driveshaft

* just confirmed by cleaning off area and it is a 60 under all that gunk.

Here - I just uploaded the D60 Service Manual (to DepositFiles) in case you need some guidance:

http://depositfiles.com/files/c3n3e59kv

DF is safe and easy.

1. Select "Regular Download"

2. Wait 5 seconds - or however long the clock says

3. After the waiting period you will have to answer a captcha

4. When you click on the answer box to begin typing, you will get one pop-up. Just X it out.

5. Type in the answer ( they give it to you) and click on "Continue" - under the captcha box.

6. The page will then display "Download file in regular mode by browser". Click that.

That's it. The file will then download to your hard disk automatically - it will be wherever your downloads normally go.
 
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88SUB

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Having a heck of a time finding replacement seals and bearings.
Been at AutoZone for 30 minutes.

Any ideas? Is this a D60 thing I need to take into consideration?

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88SUB

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OK well I got it finished. I found out what type of bearing was in there later after buying Nationals.
The bearing sleeve was still in axle and wasn't aware of this since it's my first time. I had TIMKEN U360L and they were fine actually, but when I was pressing it off the axle, it damaged it so...

Anyway it's all buttoned up. Let it set overnight so gasket gunk could cure. Gonna add fluid ( I chose 80w90 as per D60 manual )

Thanks for all the help guys!
 

88SUB

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I'm curious if anyone knows why there's no slot or hole in the back of the rear brakes to adjust the parking brake. If my rear brakes froze up I wouldn't be able to adjust it to get the drum off.

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