Recommend rear wheel cylinder?

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88SUB

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On the way home from camping last week, brakes felt squishy. Pedal to the floor and not much braking.
Removed fronts, disc and all look great. Nothing seemed wrong and still have lots of brake left.
Removed right rear and drum was coated with fluid. looked across at other tire, still on, and can see 'fling' from fluid. The rest of the brakes look brand new. I think the person I bought it from had just done the brakes because it all looks new. Shoes have hardly any wear on them.

So. Will cylinders from Autozone be well enough? I mean $8.99 sounds nice but I also don't want crap that will fail again, sooner than later.
 

Rusty Nail

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Tough to go wrong with a Wagner Brake Best brand.
@O'Reilly's..

Use a pocket screwdriver or similar to "open" the rubber seal at both ends of the cylinder. If moisture is present on the INSIDE, (behind the rubber dust seal) it requires replacement - no questions asked.

Hope this helps!
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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2nd O’Reilly’s in terms of accessibility and practicality. Replaced a 32 year old wheel cylinder with one, and it’s done fine through panic stops, city driving, etc.
 

88SUB

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They didn't have Wagner, rather listed as BrakeBest. Assuming that's Wagner?
 

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NEVER ASSUME!!!

NEVER EVER EVER EVER!

DON'T DO IT!

Do you like being bitten in the a$$?

Then don't.


 

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Just out of curiosity, any fluid loss in the master, brake warning light on?
 

Rusty Nail

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Lol!
@Snoots did you run out of meds yesterday pops? :D

@88SUB I don't think it's a huge deal, man. They aren't very expensive whatever brand you get. Reckon that one is fine. Install with confidence and remember!

When repairing rear brakes, only work on one wheel at a time.

Hope this helps!
 

HotRodPC

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They didn't have Wagner, rather listed as BrakeBest. Assuming that's Wagner?
I've used Brakes Best and never had a problem. Go with it !!! And don't forget a can of brake clean to get all the brake dust out off the backing plate and retaining components. Clean that fluid off those new shoes. Sounds like the PO did the brake pads and short cutted the wheel cylinders.
 

HotRodPC

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Lol!
@Snoots did you run out of meds yesterday pops? :D

@88SUB I don't think it's a huge deal, man. They aren't very expensive whatever brand you get. Reckon that one is fine. Install with confidence and remember!

When repairing rear brakes, only work on one wheel at a time.

Hope this helps!
:happy175: Careful talking about running out of meds. I think most of us here probably need them.


I'd agree, and rear wheel cylinders, there's really not much to them, it's kinda hard to screw those up so even an 8yo kid in China should be able to get those right.

I normally used to just buy rebuild kits and hone the cylinder and replace the rubbers and spring. However, on our squares, there's not much cost difference and usually get a limited lifetime warranty buying the wheel cylinders and then you don't have to worry about any rust or pits in your current wheel cylinders. Just pick a pair up at whichever discount auto parts store you frequent and are set up with their loyalty rewards points and go with it.
 

HotRodPC

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BTW, you mentioned the shoes looked new. Are you able to tell where they came from or what brand??? You know I'm one of those guys that keeps track of where I buy my parts and receipts. I've been known when I buy a used vehicle, I'd make a copy of the title for my file folder before I went to the DMV or tag office and I'd keep his phone # written that I called him with and wrote that down on the copy of the title with his name on it. I'm also not even afraid to ask if he recenlty replaced any parts and does he have any receipts? Ask if it's under warranty and under what phone # etc. It's paid off twice. Once for an alternator on my mom's car I bought for her, and once for a starter in a truck I bought. Oh hell, I just remembered, a battery too at Advance Auto. Gotta love FREE parts !!! Notice when you warranty parts at these discount auto parts places, they don't ask to see ID. You give the right name and phone #, you're in like Flynn.
 

chengny

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On the way home from camping last week, brakes felt squishy. Pedal to the floor and not much braking.
Removed fronts, disc and all look great. Nothing seemed wrong and still have lots of brake left.
Removed right rear and drum was coated with fluid. looked across at other tire, still on, and can see 'fling' from fluid. The rest of the brakes look brand new. I think the person I bought it from had just done the brakes because it all looks new. Shoes have hardly any wear on them.

So. Will cylinders from Autozone be well enough? I mean $8.99 sounds nice but I also don't want crap that will fail again, sooner than later.


Before you jump the PO, you might want to take a closer look at the source of the fluid and what it is. That degree of leakage would most likely have caused you to experience somewhat more severe braking problems.

Just out of curiosity, any fluid loss in the master, brake warning light on?

  • Inspect the axle seals for signs of leakage. Gear oil leaking from the axle seal will usually be indicated by a spray pattern starting at the center of the drum and spreading outwards. If any signs of gear oil leakage are found, the shoes and seal should be replaced.
NOTE: Leakage at the axle seals is often caused by worn wheel bearings. If the vehicle has high mileage it is recommended to replace the wheel bearing along with the axle seal.

Just sayin' is all.
 

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I've used Brakes Best and never had a problem. Go with it !!! And don't forget a can of brake clean to get all the brake dust out off the backing plate and retaining components. Clean that fluid off those new shoes. Sounds like the PO did the brake pads and short cutted the wheel cylinders.

Once drum brake shoes or disc pads have brake fluid or oil on them you can stick a fork in em... they're all done. Don't re-use them.

You do want to thoroughly clean off the gear oil or brake fluid from everything else. It'll collect brake dust and cake up the innards of the drum brakes like the automatic adjuster wheels.

Gear oil is really easy to identify. It stinks like brimstone. Brake fluid has a different but no less distinctive smell. I agree... if you're leaking gear oil the seal is toast and the wheel bearings are not long for this world. Check the axle shaft to be sure it's not grooved where the seal lip runs. If it's grooved you can fix it easily with a speedi sleeve.

Any wheel cylinder should do the job even O'Rileys store brand. If you're worried slip the boot back and look at the bores.
 

88SUB

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Well I replaced one side. Now working on the other side (driver)
Not seeing any brake fluid mess but smelling and seeing a blueish grease? from the hub/axle. Obviously an issue here but how or why would this cause my non braking issue?
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hatzie

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Gear Oil and DOT3, DOT4, and Dot5.1 glycol based brake fluid reduces the friction of the brake linings.
Since brakes work by friction that's a bad thing...

Looks like the axle seal is leaking and the axle looks groooved. Not un-common. I'd use an SKF Speedi-Sleeve, new seal, and new axle bearing.
You'll need to pull the diff cover and C-Clip for that axle.
I usually put on a new fiber cover gasket with Permatex High Tack spray, to hold the gasket in place, on the cover side but some folks just use Silicone form-a-gasket. If you use a fiber gasket you can fill the axle and drive it immediately instead of waiting for the silicone to cure.
The hole in the axle flange between the wheel studs gives you access to the nuts on the bearing retainer and brake backer plate.
 

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