Rally wheel weight

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Intenseblue

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Exactly what the title indicates.

Looking for rally wheel weights. 15x8 6 lug k10 wheels.

Hubcaps and trim rings welcome if someone has those too.

Thanks
 

AyWoSch Motors

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Exactly what the title indicates.

Looking for rally wheel weights. 15x8 6 lug k10 wheels.

Hubcaps and trim rings welcome if someone has those too.

Thanks
Dont have any 6 lugger rallys dismounted, but I'd imagine itd be relatively the same as a 5 lug rally, or a 6 lug steelie.
 

bucket

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They don't seem too heavy, till you buy one at a swap meet in July during a heat wave and have to carry it all the way across the fairgrounds to your car, lol.
 

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No truck rallys laying around, but I did weigh a 15x8 Corvette rally. With corresponding trim ring; no cap.

25.6 lbs.

K
 

Intenseblue

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Talked to Wheel Vintiques today and they told me the 6 lug versions they sell in 15x8 were 30lbs even. They claim they use OEM centers so I'm assuming if they're using oem centers in oem sized then they are using oem wheels altogether, just powdercoated. I forgot to ask though, so an assumption is all it is. Either way, an 8 inch steel band is an 8 inch steel band. I doubt there is much if any difference if they're different.

Hopefully someone finds this useful in a search. I just picked up a k10 with 10 hole vision wheels in 15x8 I don't care doe but they're aluminum and I'm very performance oriented and didn't want to go backwards. Looks like rallys are out for me and I'll be in the market for something else.

Appreciate the responses.
 

bucket

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I understand not wanting to increase rotating mass and unsprung weight, but you (or any amount of performance/efficiency testing) will never notice that difference on a leaf sprung, solid axle 4x4 truck. Ever.

Just ditch the wheels you don't like and install the ones you do like :)
 

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I understand not wanting to increase rotating mass and unsprung weight, but you (or any amount of performance/efficiency testing) will never notice that difference on a leaf sprung, solid axle 4x4 truck. Ever.

Just ditch the wheels you don't like and install the ones you do like :)

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Not to be argumentative but 2 or 3 pounds even per corner can be felt quite easily. Just my experience. Maybe I'm more sensitive than most. The slower the vehicle is, the more pronounced the effect is as well.
 

bucket

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Not to be argumentative but 2 or 3 pounds even per corner can be felt quite easily. Just my experience. Maybe I'm more sensitive than most. The slower the vehicle is, the more pronounced the effect is as well.

I'm not trying to be argumentative either, but I 100000% disagree. For an application such as this, feeling the difference of just a few pounds is all in the mind. I've spent quite a few years diagnosing various suspension issues on customer vehicles, my senses are well aware of what's going on during a drive.
 

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They don't seem too heavy, till you buy one at a swap meet in July during a heat wave and have to carry it all the way across the fairgrounds to your car, lol.
Sounds like carlisle lol
 

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I'm not trying to be argumentative either, but I 100000% disagree. For an application such as this, feeling the difference of just a few pounds is all in the mind. I've spent quite a few years diagnosing various suspension issues on customer vehicles, my senses are well aware of what's going on during a drive.

Disagreeing is your rright. I'm curious as to what experiences you've had on personal vehicles that you've spent a lot of time in. The first time I noticed this was my very first vehicle. A bone stock fox body 5 speed. A wheel swap only that was 6lbs lighter per corner, same tires was the difference in dead hooking 2nd gear to blowing the tires off from around 2k to 4500rpm with no other changes. And I've noticed this consistently with every vehicle since. And it's more noticeable when you go heavier.

Assuming I wanted to go with a common 8 hole wheel.... an American Racing Baja is 18lbs. A Mickey Thompson Classic 3 is 16lbs.

That's a 24-28lbs difference in the rear only. If you think ypu wouldn't feel that, you're crazy. Not only will sotp response at all throttle input and rpm be noticeable but you're probbalby looking at a minimum 1mpg increase, possibly more.
 

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Disagreeing is your rright. I'm curious as to what experiences you've had on personal vehicles that you've spent a lot of time in. The first time I noticed this was my very first vehicle. A bone stock fox body 5 speed. A wheel swap only that was 6lbs lighter per corner, same tires was the difference in dead hooking 2nd gear to blowing the tires off from around 2k to 4500rpm with no other changes. And I've noticed this consistently with every vehicle since. And it's more noticeable when you go heavier.

Assuming I wanted to go with a common 8 hole wheel.... an American Racing Baja is 18lbs. A Mickey Thompson Classic 3 is 16lbs.

That's a 24-28lbs difference in the rear only. If you think ypu wouldn't feel that, you're crazy. Not only will sotp response at all throttle input and rpm be noticeable but you're probbalby looking at a minimum 1mpg increase, possibly more.

Sorry if my post sounded rude last night, I must have been a bit grumpy when I typed it up.

Cars and other vehicles with independent suspension and lighter suspension/driveline components in general are an entirely different ball game than a leaf-sprung truck with larger diameter tires. With your truck, you are looking at 500+ pounds of unsprung weight at both ends with tires (assuming) in the 31"-33" diameter range. It is not NEARLY as sensitive to such changes, like a car would be.
 

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Sorry if my post sounded rude last night, I must have been a bit grumpy when I typed it up.

Cars and other vehicles with independent suspension and lighter suspension/driveline components in general are an entirely different ball game than a leaf-sprung truck with larger diameter tires. With your truck, you are looking at 500+ pounds of unsprung weight at both ends with tires (assuming) in the 31"-33" diameter range. It is not NEARLY as sensitive to such changes, like a car would be.
No problems with what you've posted. I'm usually a blunt typer and I hope I've not came across rude either in us having different opinions. I mean no illness in attitude.

My opinion, off of what I've read from your end is yours is more weighted towards the handling and braking end. My issue is not just unsprung weight, of which I'd take all i could get without killing the look of the truck...i.e. 26x6 on a 4x4.

My concern, or better area of improvement, or better still area I dont want to lose in, lies in the rotating weight. Not the sprung vs unsprung.

When my 01 Silverado gets 16mpg on 33" bfg all terrains on oem wheels and will light up almost all the way through first with a Cai, exhaust, programmer and 4.10s and then gets a set of 18x9 KMC wheels in the same height bfg all terrain and won't spin and goes down to 13mpg there's no other reason besides rotational weight/unsprung. Now these are torsion bar fronts, but what they are on the front is irrelevant. How that truck braked or handled potholes after may be due to unsprung weight, but not the acceleration. Also regarding rotational weights, leaf sprung trucks and 70s muscle cars with leaves respond equally as 4 link late mustangs and 3link foodies. The rear suspension has no bearing on on rotational weight. Regarding handling, I would absolutely agree with you but most people will have no concept of why.

And regarding sensitivity I'd argue still that heavier and slower vehicles will be way more sensitive than lighter and more powerful vehicles. My examples would all be based on racing, but that shouldn't make a difference. Math and percentages are facts and a rectangular hunk of steel on 4 rubber circles doesn't know what it is, and what it isn't.

I wouldnt notice rotating weight changes on a 10 second fbody or a dirt track car in acceleration. I would notice them on a Honda Civic or a Ford Focus or any truck except maybe a diesel, this being due to the power issue imo, not the weight. Can speak from experience here on 2500s gas vs diesel.
 

bucket

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No problems with what you've posted. I'm usually a blunt typer and I hope I've not came across rude either in us having different opinions. I mean no illness in attitude.

My opinion, off of what I've read from your end is yours is more weighted towards the handling and braking end. My issue is not just unsprung weight, of which I'd take all i could get without killing the look of the truck...i.e. 26x6 on a 4x4.

My concern, or better area of improvement, or better still area I dont want to lose in, lies in the rotating weight. Not the sprung vs unsprung.

When my 01 Silverado gets 16mpg on 33" bfg all terrains on oem wheels and will light up almost all the way through first with a Cai, exhaust, programmer and 4.10s and then gets a set of 18x9 KMC wheels in the same height bfg all terrain and won't spin and goes down to 13mpg there's no other reason besides rotational weight/unsprung. Now these are torsion bar fronts, but what they are on the front is irrelevant. How that truck braked or handled potholes after may be due to unsprung weight, but not the acceleration. Also regarding rotational weights, leaf sprung trucks and 70s muscle cars with leaves respond equally as 4 link late mustangs and 3link foodies. The rear suspension has no bearing on on rotational weight. Regarding handling, I would absolutely agree with you but most people will have no concept of why.

And regarding sensitivity I'd argue still that heavier and slower vehicles will be way more sensitive than lighter and more powerful vehicles. My examples would all be based on racing, but that shouldn't make a difference. Math and percentages are facts and a rectangular hunk of steel on 4 rubber circles doesn't know what it is, and what it isn't.

I wouldnt notice rotating weight changes on a 10 second fbody or a dirt track car in acceleration. I would notice them on a Honda Civic or a Ford Focus or any truck except maybe a diesel, this being due to the power issue imo, not the weight. Can speak from experience here on 2500s gas vs diesel.

I don't know what to say about your '01, but quite a few times I have switched to a heavier wheel and tire combo, then not noticed a power loss and there has been no loss in economy. I tend to track mpg on everything I own, and always have. Tread design and overall diameter obviously can make a noticeable difference, but not a few pounds per wheel.

I actually removed a set of factory "PY0" rims from the rear of my Suburban, with 33" BFG all terrains on them. I replaced them with a pair of heavy ass steel wheels with 35" BFG mud terrains on them. The truck lost no power (actually "feels" quicker) and does way better burnouts now too, but I chock that part up to the taller tread blocks. MPG is 10, just like it was before.
 

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