Radio Wiring Issue

[sonicbluezx3]

So this is what's up... I replaced the stereo with an aftermarket Kenwood unit. The radio was all wired weird before (ghetto-rigged basically) so I wanted to re-do it correctly. I got a wiring harness for a Ford Focus (the part that goes to the fuse box) and the adapter was free with it from Crutchfield. So I wire it all up (mind you I have done this a few times and never had a problem).

Now, the yellow wire is supposed to be constant and the red is ignition right? Pretty sure that's how it is supposed to go. Well.... I plugged the yellow wire into the fuse box in a spot under the "BAT" which I assume is for constant. The red wire went to an "IGN" slot.

Radio works and holds memory. Problem is after installing the radio, it kills my battery if I don't drive it for a couple of days. Before i knew it was the radio, I narrowed it down to the HORN fuse. I know it is the radio because when I pulled the HORN fuse, the radio didn't work. Pulled the wiring harness out of the back of the radio and plugged in the HORN fuse and the meter reads "0".

Why is my radio draining my battery to keep the memory?? Did I do something wrong?

 

[87sierra]

you probably have parasitic draw there is a test

1 Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.

2 Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. the meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.

3 Attach a multimeter(set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeters instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".

4 If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.

5 Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.

6 Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.

7 Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.

8 Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.

9 You can also try unhooking the big wire from your alternator. The alternator can sometimes have a shorted diode that can cause amps to flow through the alternator's power cable and through the shorted diode and into the case and through the bolts and back to the negative battery terminal. This will drain a battery in a hurry.Make sure to read the ammeter before and after unplugging your Alternator.

 

[sonicbluezx3]

I already narrowed it down to the radio though. If I unplug the radio wiring harness the meter reads zero. Thats what is confusing to me because I had everything hooked up right. It didnt do this before I installed the radio btw.

Should also mention that I tested it again after moving the yellow wire to ignition and it shows 12v draw but there is no spark when touching the main wire up to the battery like there was when i had the yellow wire in constant. So its definitely something with the radio.

 

[87sierra]

does the radio still work after switching the connections?

 

[sonicbluezx3]

I put both red and yellow on ignition and it does work just doesnt save anything.

 

[89Suburban]

That radio sounds jacked. Nice post 87sierra.


Posted from mobile...

 

[sonicbluezx3]

I'm going to pull the radio in my car out and swap it with the one in the truck and see if it still does it (it's a Kenwood as well). If it does it, I know that's the problem. If not, then I guess it's something else.

 

[dhamp]

Does it still kill the batt with both yellow and red on the same source??

 

[sonicbluezx3]

Didnt leave the battery connected long enough. It doesnt spark when i connect the lead like it did with the yellow in the constant position.