Dash/radio lose power on ignition wires

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Ifyasquintitsmint

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Posts
60
Reaction score
30
Location
Denver
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
Been driving my LS swap for a week now and I’m having an odd electrical issue.

Occasionally my gauges/radio will turn off, and when I test them they are getting 1-1.8v instead of constant 12v to the accessory/ignition wire. It’s gettting 12v to power and has a good ground.

If I leave them for a bit they may or may not come back on when i restart the truck.

I’m surprised by why it’s showing up as 1-1.8V vs none and blowing a fuse. Everything else on the truck is fine, it stumbles a bit when the power dies but it’ll run by itself just fine.

Everything else on the truck will work fine, just gets a bit quiet and dark in the cab.
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,038
Reaction score
1,833
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
It may be the ignition switch out of adjustment, or the rack and rod mechanism has broken. Some of the switch contacts may be only making a partial connection.

The actual electrical switch is mounted on the column about where it goes through the dash. The key switch has a toothed gear on the end, which turns a small rack and moves a rod up and down the column. That rod slides the electrical switch and makes contact to power the cab. The electrical switch can get out of adjustment (loosen and slide it to adjust), or the pot metal rack can fracture and not move the rod correctly. The rack and rod is cheap to buy, but requires quite a bit of column disassembly to replace.
 

Ifyasquintitsmint

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Posts
60
Reaction score
30
Location
Denver
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
It may be the ignition switch out of adjustment, or the rack and rod mechanism has broken. Some of the switch contacts may be only making a partial connection.

The actual electrical switch is mounted on the column about where it goes through the dash. The key switch has a toothed gear on the end, which turns a small rack and moves a rod up and down the column. That rod slides the electrical switch and makes contact to power the cab. The electrical switch can get out of adjustment (loosen and slide it to adjust), or the pot metal rack can fracture and not move the rod correctly. The rack and rod is cheap to buy, but requires quite a bit of column disassembly to replace.
That makes total sense, I’ve actually had issues with my ignition switch previously and had to replace it.

Since I have a spare ignition switch on hand I’ll swap that in and see if that’s the cause. Is the switch a on/off switch or is it gradual? I've also noted my rod is slightly bent, I may try to straighten it in the column.

The 1-2v readings are really confusing me as I’ve never had something read that low unless it was due to a low battery.
 
Last edited:

CorvairGeek

Full Access Member
Joined
May 7, 2012
Posts
548
Reaction score
909
Location
Boise
First Name
Jerry
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
C20 Scottsdale
Engine Size
292 L6, T400
Make sure you have the correct switch to swap too! Tilt and non-tilt column are different. The rod moves in the opposite direct between columns.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
11,783
Reaction score
54,484
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Is it anything you can trigger by jiggling the key? I used to have similar issues with cars when the switch was going out.
 

Ifyasquintitsmint

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Posts
60
Reaction score
30
Location
Denver
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
Is it anything you can trigger by jiggling the key? I used to have similar issues with cars when the switch was going out.
Just started up the truck to swap vehicles due to snow. Nothing I did could get the dash/radio on.

Trucks running fine, going to throw an ignition switch at it tomorrow night and see if that fixes it.

Pretty confused if it is my ignition switch, why my truck still starts up just fine.
 

Doppleganger

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2019
Posts
11,783
Reaction score
54,484
Location
OH-MI: Just like it sounds
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
5.7
Just started up the truck to swap vehicles due to snow. Nothing I did could get the dash/radio on.

Trucks running fine, going to throw an ignition switch at it tomorrow night and see if that fixes it.

Pretty confused if it is my ignition switch, why my truck still starts up just fine.
A retired tech friend of mine used to refer to the ignition switch as a cerebral cortex of power distribution. Lots of nutso things can happen if its buggy.
 

Ifyasquintitsmint

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Posts
60
Reaction score
30
Location
Denver
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
Drove it about 150 miles, got back drove to the store and wouldn’t start. No clicking, could hear the fuel pump.

Swapped in a different ignition switch, checked my neutral safety switch, starter was working, battery was good. Didn’t have a volt meter on me, but will break it out tomorrow.
 

Bessie

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2023
Posts
15
Reaction score
21
Location
Ct.
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
2500
Engine Size
5.7
That makes total sense, I’ve actually had issues with my ignition switch previously and had to replace it.

Since I have a spare ignition switch on hand I’ll swap that in and see if that’s the cause. Is the switch a on/off switch or is it gradual? I've also noted my rod is slightly bent, I may try to straighten it in the column.

The 1-2v readings are really confusing me as I’ve never had something read that low unless it was due to a low battery.
The low voltage readings just point to a poor connection, Did you straighten the rod ? and make sure the switch was being pushed all the way? You could have a bad ground- like a braided body ground strap.
 

Bessie

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2023
Posts
15
Reaction score
21
Location
Ct.
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
2500
Engine Size
5.7
The low voltage readings just point to a poor connection, Did you straighten the rod ? and make sure the switch was being pushed all the way? You could have a bad ground- like a braided body ground strap.
Did the truck start?
 

Ifyasquintitsmint

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Posts
60
Reaction score
30
Location
Denver
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
The low voltage readings just point to a poor connection, Did you straighten the rod ? and make sure the switch was being pushed all the way? You could have a bad ground- like a braided body ground strap.
I can try to clean them up
 

Ifyasquintitsmint

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2022
Posts
60
Reaction score
30
Location
Denver
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
305
Had a local guy say the starter solenoid could be bad. Might try testing that.
 

Bessie

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2023
Posts
15
Reaction score
21
Location
Ct.
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
2500
Engine Size
5.7
Had a local guy say the starter solenoid could be bad. Might try testing that.
Could be, and probably is a separate gremlin that just decided to show it's ugly little head but that wouldn't have anything to do with your electrical issue. It was ok before you changed the switch, back track and make sure you didn't screw something up. You may have had a solenoid problem before you changed the switch the first time (intermittent starter operation?). Then you didn't install the switch adjusted quite right. SLOW DOWN!
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,190
Reaction score
16,049
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350
Starter just clicked? Bad solenoid. Just remove it, take it apart and rotate the input lug 180 degrees. Put it all back together and viola!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
42,138
Posts
909,974
Members
33,638
Latest member
bigboytko
Top