Primary Throttle Shaft/Linkages?

[flyboy1100]

are they going to be the same if the carb came off a '86 Burb w/ 350 as my '86 305? http://www.ebay.com/itm/291235371952 i did buy it and overall it looks close, i wish there was a direct picture of the drivers side so i could see the linkages but i think it is the same or simiar

reason:

i was trying to retap the holes in the primary shaft since 1 screw sheared on removal and i ended up snapping the tap in the hole and i don't know how to or if it is even possible to remove it.
and i am missing some parts i would like to get back that look like they are on that carb.

i am only planning to take what i need (throttle shaft, idle solenoid, choke housing) and leave the rest unless it is better than mine.

 

[MadOgre]

is it the same as your carb?

 

[MadOgre]

The reason you sheared the screw holding the throttle plate is because when they are installed they are peened to prevent them from backing out and being sucked into the combustion chamber.

 

[MadOgre]

You must file or grind off the threads protruding from the shaft and then back out the screw.

 

[MadOgre]

You must purchase new screws to reinstall and you must peen the ends to prevent them from backing out.

 

[350runner]

For future reference...If you are trying to remove the throttle blade screws. You(must) grind the ends off because they are staked so they don't back out.

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[MadOgre]

Staked yes it is staked lol

 

[350runner]

I'm with stupid me wants steaks

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[flyboy1100]

i know they were staked, i did grind them first and the final one still broke

anyway, linkages, etc were identical except the fast idle cam has 3 steps instead of 2 mine had. i put that one on.

carb is back on and it did start it, it idles at like 2800.......need time and suggestions on where to start with that so i can get it retuned! also seems like choke might be binding somewhere, which is weird because on my bench it was fine...

 

[350runner]

This is how i install mine. Insert the 4 carb to intake screws. Finger tighten them. Slide carb base gasket all the way forward. Slide the carb all the way back. Tighten the 4 screws. Check to make sure all the carb body screws are tight. Is your throttle shaft loose?

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[flyboy1100]

This is how i install mine. Insert the 4 carb to intake screws. Finger tighten them. Slide carb base gasket all the way forward. Slide the carb all the way back. Tighten the 4 screws. Check to make sure all the carb body screws are tight. Is your throttle shaft loose?

Sent from the dust in front of you!

shaft is tight as i put in teflon bushings

i will try moving it around it could be binding, well something is for sure just not sure what.

i did also notice fuel/wetness between airhorn and middle assembly. but it was only after playing with the linkage to see if i could tell what was binding and the accelerator pump pumped 4 or 5 times.

i was really hoping it would just run, but my luck, nothing ever works out. it did start awesome though now that the choke works, so thats something

 

[MadOgre]

Check and make sure that the choke housing is fully seated and square to the carb body. Sometimes the aluminum choke housing needs to be filed about 1/32 inch to allow the top dowel pin to seat properly. It can be the difference between sticky and smooth.

sliding base gaskets around is going to do dick all, except satisfy obsessive compulsive disorders.

The throttle shaft should be with out slack but not tight as in doesn't move freely. When the throttle is opened and released it should return to the closed position with little to no effort.

The Phillips adjusting screw on the passenger side below the choke linkage is for adjusting your fast idle( idle speed while the choke is engaged) once the choke disengages and the choke plate is fully opened that adjustment does not affect idle speed any more, now the adjusting screw on the drivers side determines idle speed.

I usually set the passengers side fast idle to about 1000-1100 rpm when the engine is cold and first started and then when it is warmed and the choke fully disengages I set the drivers side idle to about 650 rpm. IT is supposed to be 550rpm while in drive. It usually drops 100rpm from neutral to drive.

 

[350runner]

Floats lil too high if you see wetness around the air horn. No worries we are not pros who do this stuff for a living so lil miss hap along the way is expected.

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[flyboy1100]

Check and make sure that the choke housing is fully seated and square to the carb body. Sometimes the aluminum choke housing needs to be filed about 1/32 inch to allow the top dowel pin to seat properly. It can be the difference between sticky and smooth.

sliding base gaskets around is going to do dick all, except satisfy obsessive compulsive disorders.

The throttle shaft should be with out slack but not tight as in doesn't move freely. When the throttle is opened and released it should return to the closed position with little to no effort.

The Phillips adjusting screw on the passenger side below the choke linkage is for adjusting your fast idle( idle speed while the choke is engaged) once the choke disengages and the choke plate is fully opened that adjustment does not affect idle speed any more, now the adjusting screw on the drivers side determines idle speed.

I usually set the passengers side fast idle to about 1000-1100 rpm when the engine is cold and first started and then when it is warmed and the choke fully disengages I set the drivers side idle to about 650 rpm. IT is supposed to be 550rpm while in drive. It usually drops 100rpm from neutral to drive.

regular idle screw is set so low the throttle linkage won't touch it.

fast idle is also backed out about far enough to fall out.

will pull airhorn off and check float level, i thought it was set to 13/32 below the top of the bowl, but could be wront (that is what the spec in the chiltons book is anyway, unless i misread it)

oh, and w/o someone to help me i'm still not sure that my accelerator pedal will pull the throttle to WOT. it is a new cable. getting a bit ahead of myself on that one, just came to mind.

 

[MadOgre]

regular idle screw is set so low the throttle linkage won't touch it.

fast idle is also backed out about far enough to fall out.

will pull airhorn off and check float level, i thought it was set to 13/32 below the top of the bowl, but could be wront (that is what the spec in the chiltons book is anyway, unless i misread it)

oh, and w/o someone to help me i'm still not sure that my accelerator pedal will pull the throttle to WOT. it is a new cable. getting a bit ahead of myself on that one, just came to mind.

I wouldn't bother with the float just yet.

So the 2800 rpm is with the choke plate open or closed?