please help quickly
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aGood'olBoy
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It's still in the transfer case and yes it still has the slip yoke. I don't wheel it enough to justify getting the eliminator kit
aGood'olBoy
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I only ask about the blocks because of the poor pinion angle
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That's what i was getting at. The pinion appears to be way too elevated. If you were to extend a line out from the output shaft rearward, and another from the pinion centerline forward, they should be nearly parallel. The driveshaft angles should be close to the same on each end as it splits the distance between output and pinion.
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The only reason to rotate the pinion up would be to if you were using the slip yoke eliminator. In which case you would clock the pinion to point directly at the output shaft. Yours appears to be rotated past that point from your picture.
aGood'olBoy
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I understand the pinion angle is wrong but I'm wondering if I spun the blocks around if it would be at the correct angle.
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That is WAY too much upward angle. Lift blocks won't cause that, they have the angle built into them because it's needed for the additional ride height.
Looks to me that the axle's center section has spun on the axle tubes.
Looks to me that the axle's center section has spun on the axle tubes.
aGood'olBoy
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It's a 200 horse 350 I don't know I find it hard to believe I spun the Center section. I understand the angle is built into the blocks but if I put them in backwards it would cause the excessive angle. If I flipped them around so the taller end was in the front it would lower the pinion angle.
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chengny
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but I'm wondering if I spun the blocks around if it would be at the correct angle.
Yes. What you've done - by inserting a set of tapered lift blocks - is index the entire axle in the CW direction in relation to the spring stack - as viewed from the RH side.
Normally, the spring stack sits directly on the axle perch:
Set up like that, the surfaces of the perches are nearly parallel to the axial vector of the pinion (or close - maybe the pinion is inclined upwards 5 degrees or so):
With the your set up, the distance from the perch surface to the lower spring is much greater in the rear than in the front. The result is that, the axle is rotated:
Consequently, the axial pinion vector is at an extreme angle to the plane of the spring stack (I exaggerated the degree of the angle a bit for clarity - but not by much):
You should restack those lift blocks and bring the axial vector of the pinion back closer to the plane of the springs. As it is now, the load on those drive shaft u-joints must be astronomical.
Having said all that; Be aware that I am no expert by any means, so consider the source when taking advice from me.
Yes. What you've done - by inserting a set of tapered lift blocks - is index the entire axle in the CW direction in relation to the spring stack - as viewed from the RH side.
Normally, the spring stack sits directly on the axle perch:
You must be registered for see images attach
Set up like that, the surfaces of the perches are nearly parallel to the axial vector of the pinion (or close - maybe the pinion is inclined upwards 5 degrees or so):
You must be registered for see images attach
With the your set up, the distance from the perch surface to the lower spring is much greater in the rear than in the front. The result is that, the axle is rotated:
You must be registered for see images attach
Consequently, the axial pinion vector is at an extreme angle to the plane of the spring stack (I exaggerated the degree of the angle a bit for clarity - but not by much):
You must be registered for see images attach
You should restack those lift blocks and bring the axial vector of the pinion back closer to the plane of the springs. As it is now, the load on those drive shaft u-joints must be astronomical.
Having said all that; Be aware that I am no expert by any means, so consider the source when taking advice from me.
chengny
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If I flipped them around so the taller end was in the front it would lower the pinion angle.
Yes that is correct. But, isn't the lift block actually made up of two stacked/tapered blocks? That's what it looks like in the image anyway.
If that is in fact the case, you should be able to just end-for-end one of the blocks and that will cut your spring to pinion angle by 50%.
Yes that is correct. But, isn't the lift block actually made up of two stacked/tapered blocks? That's what it looks like in the image anyway.
If that is in fact the case, you should be able to just end-for-end one of the blocks and that will cut your spring to pinion angle by 50%.
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Fancy talk aside, those blocks are NOT installed incorrectly. If flipping them around backwards fixes the angle, there IS another problem.
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Lift blocks are tapered for a good reason. When you install flat blocks, it puts more angle on the u-joint compared to stock. That's why tapered blocks are best, it points the pinion up a few degrees and puts the u-joint closer to a stock angle. The pinion is pointed up way more than a few degrees. Something is wrong.
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One more thing, if you remove the blocks and put it back stock, I'll bet you find your pinion angle is still crap.
aGood'olBoy
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They are one piece blocks and they have been on the truck as long as I've owned it. They were on the old axle and on this one. Should I try to rotate the center section back even if I can't weld it at my house? The plug welds don't look broken. The tubes seem parallel. They don't look spun. I have transfer case lowering spacers would removing those help out temporarily?
