Melted black wire headed to fuse box

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

samblnc

Junior Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2023
Posts
17
Reaction score
14
Location
Helotes, Texas
First Name
Sam
Truck Year
2010
Truck Model
Tundra
Engine Size
V8
So, my 73 C10 truck died suddenly on the road last night. No power, lights, nothing. I replaced the alternator since it looked near original, and since we noticed that the negative terminal was pretty damaged and loose. Still no power of any kind.

After about an hour or so of hunting for the issue this morning, we found the main + battery cable runs up to the top of the firewall and splits off: (1) to the left towards this “hub” shown in the photos, and then (2) to the right towards the fuse box.

The problem was a wire leading to the hub that had apparently melted/fused and split in two and apparently just came apart while I was driving. It’s a braided wire that almost looked smooth/solid where it split. Once we closed the circuit back up, all power was back.

Question 1: Is this splicing job acceptable (yellow connector)?

Question 2: Has anyone seen this situation? Note that we recently had vintage air installed on a non-factory AC truck. Also note the comment above regarding damaged alternator.

Any tips appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8450.jpeg
    IMG_8450.jpeg
    156 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_8451.jpeg
    IMG_8451.jpeg
    119.7 KB · Views: 40
  • IMG_8453.jpeg
    IMG_8453.jpeg
    170 KB · Views: 40

Jgonick

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2017
Posts
232
Reaction score
308
Location
West Texas
First Name
Joel
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
That looks like a fusibe link. The barrel on it. I would check the wire diagram
LINk
You really should replace the fusible link if it is one. You can buy them from auto store or make your own out of fusible wire (special type of wire). The wire diagram will tell you the gage of wire & the gage of the fusible link. (Usually 4 gages smaller)
 
Last edited:

CalSgt

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2021
Posts
1,571
Reaction score
3,353
Location
CA
First Name
Casey
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
Chevy K-10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
That looks like a fusibe link. The barrel on it. I would check the wire diagram
LINK.
You really should replace the fusible link if it is one. You can buy them from auto store ir make your own out of fusible wire (special type of wire). The wire diagram will tell you the gage of wire & the gage of the fusible link. (Usually 4 gages smaller)
Beat me to it by seconds… LOL
 

AuroraGirl

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2019
Posts
9,350
Reaction score
6,377
Location
Northern Wisconsin
First Name
Taylor
Truck Year
1978, 1980
Truck Model
K10, K25
Engine Size
400(?), 350
So, my 73 C10 truck died suddenly on the road last night. No power, lights, nothing. I replaced the alternator since it looked near original, and since we noticed that the negative terminal was pretty damaged and loose. Still no power of any kind.

After about an hour or so of hunting for the issue this morning, we found the main + battery cable runs up to the top of the firewall and splits off: (1) to the left towards this “hub” shown in the photos, and then (2) to the right towards the fuse box.

The problem was a wire leading to the hub that had apparently melted/fused and split in two and apparently just came apart while I was driving. It’s a braided wire that almost looked smooth/solid where it split. Once we closed the circuit back up, all power was back.

Question 1: Is this splicing job acceptable (yellow connector)?

Question 2: Has anyone seen this situation? Note that we recently had vintage air installed on a non-factory AC truck. Also note the comment above regarding damaged alternator.

Any tips appreciated.
if you wanted to special it could be a time to put a MAXIFUSE bar in .. lol.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
42,984
Posts
926,006
Members
34,563
Latest member
chevyc10-1978
Top