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Loosing steering!!

Discussion in 'Lifted & Off-Road Systems' started by damncajun, Jan 10, 2019.

  1. idahovette

    idahovette Full Access Member

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    OK 2 more things to look at. Gonna have to get help again, Have someone rock the steering wheel again and watch the input shaft(from the steering wheel side)into the gear. See if it moves in and out with the twist from rocking the wheel. This is the end play, shouldn't be any. 2nd check to see if your springs are loose at the shackles or the axle u-bolts. That's all I got without being there in person to help. Good luck and let us know what you find
     
  2. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I've never seen an S-type drag link installed that way before. They only have one purpose, and they suck at that purpose. With yours set up sideways like that, it's probably not hurting anything other than it being harder to center the steering.

    My advice is identical to idahovette's.
     
  3. hirschdalechevy

    hirschdalechevy Full Access Member

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    Agree with bucket , lose the draglink and go back to stock , s-style not needed with a raised arm.

    Your caster might be an issue , I built my girls square with 35's and a 6 inch lift and it drove ok but it felt loose , ( she was 16 at the time) , so I wanted to make it better. What I did was take out the degree shims under the springs to bring the caster back and it was night and day , her truck drove perfect with no drive shaft problems , ( built drive shaft). Not saying that is your problem but you might try that.
     
  4. damncajun

    damncajun Member

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    I've taken it to two "off road" shops. Both tell me there is only toe adjustment. No caster adjustment. 76 K5 4x4 solid axle

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
     
  5. hirschdalechevy

    hirschdalechevy Full Access Member

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    "Wrong" , there are shims under the front spring that adjust camber . Look at the bottom of your springs where they sit on the axle perch. Most if not all after market springs have degree shims hooked to them. Even on a stock , (no shims) , truck you can change the camber with shims under the springs if need be.

    Shops are just lazy and don't want to drop the front axle to do shit right.

    I mean caster , sorry
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019
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  6. hirschdalechevy

    hirschdalechevy Full Access Member

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    Have a shop check the camber and give you the number and you can bring it within spec yourself with shims , then take it back and see if you are within spec.

    With a 4 inch lift you should be able to get to spec. , trucks with big lifts you cant get to spec. but you can get close

    sorry again , I mean caster
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019
  7. hirschdalechevy

    hirschdalechevy Full Access Member

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    Get rid of that drag link and run a stock drag
     
  8. idahovette

    idahovette Full Access Member

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    These shims adjust CASTER NOT CAMBER. There are shims behind the spindle or bushings at the top of the upper ball joint to adjust camber
     
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  9. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I'm sure that's what he meant?
     
  10. hirschdalechevy

    hirschdalechevy Full Access Member

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    I always miss word the two , caster , camber , even when I am talking about the two I sometimes switch them up , caster is correct !!!!!!
     
  11. idahovette

    idahovette Full Access Member

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    Kinda figured that. Caster is what you started out with, just clarifying.
     

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