K5 rear window motor - Replacement are garbage - Alternative solution

[rpcraft]

Well, the title of this thread says it all. I think anyone who has tried any of the online or box store replacement units that are currently made for the K5 rear window has found out that they don't work well, if at all. I inspected my jack screw and the regulator. They seem to be in good order. I know my guide rails need to be replaced but even then, when I hook a drill up to the cable it turns with little effort and the Window goes up or down easily just using my little Milwaukee M12 drill. I'd love to replace the tailgate because the top has cracks along the outer edge, but it got me to thinking, I can fix that with some welded in strap (from the bottom side) and if the drill works so well for rolling the window up by using the drill, why not just buy a second hand M12 drill and modify it so that instead of using the power or reverse switch, I just power it off truck juice and use the truck wiring to control the fwd/rev function like the OEM unit, modify the drill and make a jig to hold it in place of the motor, what is stopping me?

I mean, I can buy a brand new empty tool with no battery for 69 bucks, and I already know it will roll the window up or down with ease. The battery is already 12 volt. Does the safety switch on the rear window act is a limit switch? If not I can probably add a limit switch into a relay setup using microswitches and add that in (I think) or I can just keep the clutch on the drill and adjust it.

I am curious to hear anyone's thoughts on the matter. I know most of us all resort to using a drill to roll the damn thing down when the motor craps out anyways so here I am just making a temporary solution into a permanent one and it sure beats trying to source an Original GM unit (meaning used usually).

Love to hear your feedback!

 

[Dougnsalem]

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No. No. Just please, no.... Lol

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

The switch itself is where my problem lies. I’ve still not dealt with it (either somehow rebuilding the switch or replacing it with a similar one), but I did buy a reman motor that works well when the stupid switch would cooperate. Make sure your tracks down in the tailgate and the channels in the top are well lubricated with silicone before you give up. A few treatments of that really helped my motor out.

As far as the drill motor idea goes, I think it’s cool, and it definitely inspires hope for the dismayed Blazer owner. That drill definitely beats the hell out of even a good motor.

 

[Big Chip]

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[rpcraft]

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No. No. Just please, no.... Lol

You say no, no but just look at my signature avatar my friend. You'll be saying this too if I make it a permanent accessary, lol. But honestly, now that has been brought up, perhaps the switch is the crux of my problem. Might be worth inspecting the contactors and then maybe just testing a direct connection to the motor.

It's why I axe for opinions.

 

[Snoots]

Make certain that you have a DAMN GOOD GROUND between the chassis and/or body to the tailgate.
Ask me how I know.

 

[rpcraft]

Yeah I am thinking it will be a good Saturday project this weekend. I know I need to replace the side guide rails for a fact but for the time being they are at least serviceable. Will just take the switch apart and clean and check it out. If I recall properly the motor grounds through the connection points where it screws to the tailgate framework but I will at least clean them off and scuff the area with sandpaper to make sure its a good clean contact.

 

[gmachinz]

I started offering HD relay kits for the very reason of voltage loss going back to the motor-as already suggested, make sure your ground is good.

 

[rpcraft]

Yeah I am going to hold off for the moment on doing much. One of the big swap meets is coming up in DFW in a couple weeks and I am sure I can pick up a tailgate that is in better shape than my current one. Once I get that I will gauge further interest. I am sure it's either the grounds or the contacts on one of the switch elements at the very least now that I have thought about it some.

 

[Snoots]

If you do get another one, don't throw away your old motor and switches. I'll make you an offer.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Make certain that you have a DAMN GOOD GROUND between the chassis and/or body to the tailgate.
Ask me how I know.

Ok pops, i'll bite.

"How do ya know?"

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

If you do get another one, don't throw away your old motor and switches. I'll make you an offer.

You know how to rebuild or at least refresh the switches?

 

[Snoots]

"How do ya know?"

Well sonny, waaaay back in the 19 hundreds, 19 hunerd an 98 if'n I member korectly, I had da same problem wif mah talegate.
I wuz luky at da tyme an had the winder down wif da key in da switch. Kno muvement. Ahd ben cussin' an a swarin' at it a bunch. That didn't work.
Sos ah wuz goin to lower da talegate to take da screws out of da panel an see wut ah cud see.
Ah wuz lowerin da talegate wen ah realized ah had lef da key in da switch. Ah didn wan da key to fall out on da groun an reeched to grab it.
Dat's wen da damn ting move.
Sos ah figured dat da talegate weren't gettin a gud ground.
Sune as ah added a wyre frum da talegate to da body, it wurked fyne.
Ah later found da old ground hangin on by a thread and replaced it an removed my kluge.
No problem sense.

Dere. Happy now?

 

[Snoots]

You know how to rebuild or at least refresh the switches?

Yep.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Yep.

I hate to sound like a tool, but do you think you could look at mine and see what you think? Like if I mailed it to you. I’ve started on it, but I’m very concerned about breaking it.

I could make it worth your while by sending you a rear window motor core for you to rebuild.