K5 rear window motor - Replacement are garbage - Alternative solution

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Goldie Driver

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Well sonny, waaaay back in the 19 hundreds, 19 hunerd an 98 if'n I member korectly, I had da same problem wif mah talegate.
I wuz luky at da tyme an had the winder down wif da key in da switch. Kno muvement. Ahd ben cussin' an a swarin' at it a bunch. That didn't work.
Sos ah wuz goin to lower da talegate to take da screws out of da panel an see wut ah cud see.
Ah wuz lowerin da talegate wen ah realized ah had lef da key in da switch. Ah didn wan da key to fall out on da groun an reeched to grab it.
Dat's wen da damn ting move.
Sos ah figured dat da talegate weren't gettin a gud ground.
Sune as ah added a wyre frum da talegate to da body, it wurked fyne.
Ah later found da old ground hangin on by a thread and replaced it an removed my kluge.
No problem sense.

Dere. Happy now?

WTF is a kluge ?

Followed all the rest of that ...

Hillbilly? Eubonics?

Whatever the fock that was ..

:think::anitoof:
 

Snoots

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WTF is a kluge ?

A kluge is akin to the adage, 'I used bailing wire and bubble gum to hold it together 'till I got home'.
It's a MacGyver sort of thing. A cheap fix until you can get the right stuff to do the job properly.

I was just rattling Rusty Nails' chain and in general, having fun.
 

Snoots

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I hate to sound like a tool, but do you think you could look at mine and see what you think? Like if I mailed it to you. I’ve started on it, but I’m very concerned about breaking it.

I could make it worth your while by sending you a rear window motor core for you to rebuild.


I don't mind it but in all honesty, you can do it. It's not hard at all. Get a paper clip, a nut driver, some rags, a small used paintbrush, some fresh bearing grease (about the size of a pencil eraser) and, some emery cloth or 2000 grit sand paper.
There are 2 types of motors used. One drives the window regulator directly and the other drives a cable (like a speedometer).
You'll need to use the paperclip to hold the motor brushes in place while you do the 'freshening up'. There is a hole in the frame to allow this.
After you have reassembled everything you remove the paperclip and you're done.

I'll try to find the info I have to help you and post it here. That'll also save you the $$ for postage.

When you have these motors apart they tend to want to jump off of the workbench and hit their most delicate part on the floor, essentially destroying themselves. Trying to prevent this teaches patience.
This time, DON'T ask me how I know.

It'll take you about 2 hours to do this right (and 2 beers)...during and after.

Please post a pic of your motor.

Well, after a very thorough search I must sadly inform you that I have been unable to locate the info that I thought I had. That's what I get for thinking.
Once you post a pic of your motor we can go from there.

All this is assuming that the problem IS the motor.
 
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1987 GMC Jimmy

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Oh, my motor’s good. I was talking about getting the switch working. But if I need to rebuild a motor, now I know how. Mine hooks to a drive cable.
 

77 K20

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Electricity is over rated.

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Rusty Nail

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That jazz he's ramblin about at the end is real talk. Paint and body shops are NOT what they used to be.
If you find a shop that is willing to touch your customization with a 10 foot stick - be real nice to em.

The manual conversion seems like an "easy way out" to me..ain't no way in hell that ******* power window is gonna whup ME.
IF it ever gets converted, i'll take apart a perfectly good set-up to do so. Just sayin..:shrug:
 

Snoots

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Oh, my motor’s good. I was talking about getting the switch working. But if I need to rebuild a motor, now I know how. Mine hooks to a drive cable.

The switch in the cab or the tailgate?
Both can be rebuilt.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

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The switch in the cab or the tailgate?
Both can be rebuilt.

The cab. Although, the one in the tailgate only works in one direction so maybe both unless there’s a wiring issue, but I haven’t found one.
 

rpcraft

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Snoots

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The one inside can be rebuilt but usually one or more of the tiny locking tabs will break. Since I cleaned the switch with alcohol, I used a 2-part epoxy to hold it together.
Those tiny springs inside the switch can be a real PITA. A little dielectric grease applied with a toothpick will usually hold them in place.
 

rpcraft

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I stomped the bezel for my inside switch and smashed the hell out of it. I guess if I go to put that all back in I gotta figure out a way around that, lol.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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Think about it for a minute, if the crappy Chinese drills can work, why can't they make a tgate motor which is basically the same as a drill work? Last year I bought 84 K5 Blazer from San Francisco, and the window rockets up and down. On the other hand the window in my 84 diesel Blazer moves like a snail, and I ducttaped it shut. And now it is badly rusted underneath the duct tape.

I really need access to my diesel Blazer rearend, to remove a thousand pounds of rock salt (ballast) and replace it with sand. The last time I tried, the motor didn't even move. I guess I'll have to stick a crowbar in there. I think I have an NOS motor, but I'm going to need it
 

stuman

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I am curious to hear anyone's thoughts on the matter. I know most of us all resort to using a drill to roll the damn thing down when the motor craps out anyways so here I am just making a temporary solution into a permanent one and it sure beats trying to source an Original GM unit (meaning used usually).

Love to hear your feedback!

Are those drills "red" by chance? You would be putting the "red" into "redneck" if so...
 
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