I thought I had this nailed....[front end pull]

[wczimmerman]

So, when I bought my V2500 it pulled to the right when stopping. That was a little over 2 years ago and I've done a lot of work since then. Included in that was new brakes on all 4 wheels, new shocks, and I rebuilt the front end completely. Today, after all this time I thought for sure that the issue was the leaf springs, in particular the right front, was just shot so I had all the leaf springs replaced along with the bushings and U-bolts. It still pulls to the right when you brake though it is better which I attribute to the stiffer springs. I suppose the brakes could be at fault but it was doing it before and after I replaced the calipers. I suppose it could be something with the front end (alignment?) as I seem to recall that one shop mentioned that the front end needed some shims for the alignment to be completely correct (can't remember which adjustment that was). I suppose it could be the proportioning valve which is original.

Anyone have any thoughts on what to check? It would be nice to get this licked...

 

[87scotty]

Like u said valve but also check rear end if everythings good gotta be a break issue mine does it to broke leaf in rear it dig tracks a lil bit

 

[wczimmerman]

As I am reading up on potential issues, I'm learning that toe-in/toe-out can be a factor here (alignment). I wonder if the toe needs to be set more "in"? Since these trucks didn't come with the drag link to balance out the pitman arm, I seem to recall that they were more susceptible to things like this...

Any alignment guys out there?

 

[chengny]

Some things to check - I omitted the obvious and what you have already covered.

Keep in mind that the cause of a steering pull/lead condition does not necessarily have to be associated with just front brake/ front end components - a weak rear brake on one side can result in similar behavior.

1. Collapsed hose/kinked tubing at any wheel.

2. Improper adjustment of rear brakes. Adjust to .030" running clearance.

3. Worn/loose front wheel bearings (this can allow the rotor to tilt in relation to the pads
and reduce surface contact).

4. Uneven steering knuckle to caliper clearance (individual knuckle top/bottom and from
left to right side of vehicle). Should be between .010" - .024" in total. If necessary, file the knuckle to obtain clearances. Equalize all upper and lower clearances per Figure No. 1.

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5. Excessive ball joint turning effort as per dwg 3:

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6. Inspect caliper brake line bolt for mislocation of orifice. The orifice should be located in the unthreaded part of the bolt. If the orifice is located in a threaded portion of the bolt, then the bolt must be replaced.

7. Loose leaf spring to axle u-bolts. Torque leaf spring-to-axle U-bolts to high limit
of specification (150 ft.lbs. or 2 03 N-m).

8. All brake lines properly bled and entirely free of entrained air.

9. Inspect front spring bushings for visible deterioration. Replace as necessary. (DONE)

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As I am reading up on potential issues, I'm learning that toe-in/toe-out can be a factor here (alignment). I wonder if the toe needs to be set more "in"? Since these trucks didn't come with the drag link to balance out the pitman arm, I seem to recall that they were more susceptible to things like this...

Any alignment guys out there?


Toe is set to normal specs: Inspect and record front end alignment readings - adjust total toe to specifications (.0 " to .14 ").

But the TSB directs that the caster angle be increased +10 degrees from what was initially noted during the preliminary inspection. Install the steel caster wedge between the axle pad and the spring pad. The thicker end of the wedge should be positioned toward rear of the vehicle.

 

[wczimmerman]

Some things to check - I omitted the obvious and what you have already covered.

Keep in mind that the cause of a steering pull/lead condition does not necessarily have to be associated with just front brake/ front end components - a weak rear brake on one side can result in similar behavior.

1. Collapsed hose/kinked tubing at any wheel.

2. Improper adjustment of rear brakes. Adjust to .030" running clearance.

3. Worn/loose front wheel bearings (this can allow the rotor to tilt in relation to the pads
and reduce surface contact).

4. Uneven steering knuckle to caliper clearance (individual knuckle top/bottom and from
left to right side of vehicle). Should be between .010" - .024" in total. If necessary, file the knuckle to obtain clearances. Equalize all upper and lower clearances per Figure No. 1.

You must be registered for see images attach

5. Excessive ball joint turning effort as per dwg 3:

You must be registered for see images attach

6. Inspect caliper brake line bolt for mislocation of orifice. The orifice should be located in the unthreaded part of the bolt. If the orifice is located in a threaded portion of the bolt, then the bolt must be replaced.

7. Loose leaf spring to axle u-bolts. Torque leaf spring-to-axle U-bolts to high limit
of specification (150 ft.lbs. or 2 03 N-m).

8. All brake lines properly bled and entirely free of entrained air.

9. Inspect front spring bushings for visible deterioration. Replace as necessary. (DONE)

You must be registered for see images attach

Great information! Just reading over that brought up the wheel bearings. I remember they looked good when I rebuilt the front end but I didn't replace them. Just repacked and reinstalled. Hmmm....

 

[chengny]

And they have to be tightened to spec in order to get a good result. If you have a Dana 60 front axle it's almost impossible to that without one of these:

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[SA Fan]

My initial diagnostic assumption would be wheel alignment with regards to the toe-in. But after reading it again I don't think it's alignment related because you would have experienced it while driving as well as seen inner tire wear. Could be the left caliper not functioning properly which makes it feels as if the problem is on the right. Even a partially blocked (or kinked) brake line on the left side. I've had it once that the flex connector (brand new) was blocked where it was crimped

 

[crazy4offroad]

Dirty brake fluid can block the passages in the banjo bolt and cause a lack of pressure in a caliper, so if it pulls right I would be concentrating on the left brake caliper/hose/banjo bolt/etc.