Chris64
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2024
- Posts
- 211
- Reaction score
- 329
- Location
- San Diego
- First Name
- Chris
- Truck Year
- 1974
- Truck Model
- K20
- Engine Size
- 350
OK - sorry ahead of time for the wall of text - I have questions.
Well I got one side almost together. Just the brake pads left but I keep running out of daylight. It went together way easier than it came apart and looks so nice without all the rust and cobwebs.
FYI: The Harbor Freight race driver set does not include one big enough for the inside bearing. I was going to make one but I couldn't find a good piece of alum in my stock pile. So I started with the outside and the driver with a frozen race and it worked great so I went ahead and just used the old ring against the new one (frozen) and the largest driver (wedged inside where the bearing would ride) and it worked fine. yay!
It took several sets of lug studs to find ones that fit the rotor properly (studs labeled .657 were too small and dropped in with no resistance (I can't explain that). .666 pressed in fine). The problem was these were too big for the hubs (the part that gets sandwiched together with the rotor). The rotors I got had lug holes that are .642. The ones on the previous rotors were .645. The hubs, on the other hand, are about .605.
I ended up turning them on a lathe so they would fit (about 3/8" below the knurled area from about .630 to .605). They're super tight but it seemed odd to me that this was necessary.
Besides that, here's my real concern: The lug studs I got are the same length as the ones that were there but they're not threaded all the way to the end. These get me about 9 full turns on threads which is basically 1/2" of thread engagement with the wheel on. While I think it's probably safe enough (and there are 8 of them), it does have 35's so...yeah. I'm trying to convince myself.
It's not too late to change things so I thought I'd see what people thought. If it were as easy as "just buy new studs" I would but getting the correct size is proving to be a challenge. I have the old studs but they're really trashed.
Well I got one side almost together. Just the brake pads left but I keep running out of daylight. It went together way easier than it came apart and looks so nice without all the rust and cobwebs.
FYI: The Harbor Freight race driver set does not include one big enough for the inside bearing. I was going to make one but I couldn't find a good piece of alum in my stock pile. So I started with the outside and the driver with a frozen race and it worked great so I went ahead and just used the old ring against the new one (frozen) and the largest driver (wedged inside where the bearing would ride) and it worked fine. yay!
It took several sets of lug studs to find ones that fit the rotor properly (studs labeled .657 were too small and dropped in with no resistance (I can't explain that). .666 pressed in fine). The problem was these were too big for the hubs (the part that gets sandwiched together with the rotor). The rotors I got had lug holes that are .642. The ones on the previous rotors were .645. The hubs, on the other hand, are about .605.
I ended up turning them on a lathe so they would fit (about 3/8" below the knurled area from about .630 to .605). They're super tight but it seemed odd to me that this was necessary.
Besides that, here's my real concern: The lug studs I got are the same length as the ones that were there but they're not threaded all the way to the end. These get me about 9 full turns on threads which is basically 1/2" of thread engagement with the wheel on. While I think it's probably safe enough (and there are 8 of them), it does have 35's so...yeah. I'm trying to convince myself.
It's not too late to change things so I thought I'd see what people thought. If it were as easy as "just buy new studs" I would but getting the correct size is proving to be a challenge. I have the old studs but they're really trashed.
