How to/Tips on pulling a 350 engine

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Manbearpig

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I lift them straight up :D

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HotRodPC

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Normally you shouldn't have to remove exhaust manifolds, but many times you would have to remove headers unless you are using block hugger shorty headers.
 

Swims350

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I have NEVER had to remove manifolds from the block to pull an engine. Not even a 4.3 zr2 s-10 97 model with a/c. THAT WAS TIGHT!!! Not in a good way, very close on everything.

Like I said remove the collector and yank it. If the studs break so what, vice grips or stud extracter on them, if that fails drill them and put bolts in. I did it to my 88.

headers yes, I remove them from the collector, then remove em from the block and pull em out of the way. Then lift the motor out.

Now on a car you need them left in place before the motor goes in, on some cars, or else it's a real pain to get them in.
 

Swims350

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my old man had a 70 something late 70's I think chevy van and his buddy had around the same year dodge van, they pulled motors in them by going thru the side door behind the seat, lifted it up and out. Not the front doors and not the rear doors. Now motor and trans is probably a different story.
 

HotRodPC

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I have NEVER had to remove manifolds from the block to pull an engine. Not even a 4.3 zr2 s-10 97 model with a/c. THAT WAS TIGHT!!! Not in a good way, very close on everything.

Like I said remove the collector and yank it. If the studs break so what, vice grips or stud extracter on them, if that fails drill them and put bolts in. I did it to my 88.

headers yes, I remove them from the collector, then remove em from the block and pull em out of the way. Then lift the motor out.

Now on a car you need them left in place before the motor goes in, on some cars, or else it's a real pain to get them in.

my old man had a 70 something late 70's I think chevy van and his buddy had around the same year dodge van, they pulled motors in them by going thru the side door behind the seat, lifted it up and out. Not the front doors and not the rear doors. Now motor and trans is probably a different story.

Yes, o many cars you better put he headers in and wire them off to the side then set the engine in place or you may not get the headers in after the block is on the mounts. But trucks, usually no problem putting them in after the fact but they need to come off to pull the motor or the collector end will hit the firewall.

Yeah, I have seen van motors come thru the rear sliding door, but as I pictured my van, its not gonna happen. No sliding door. Its gotta come out the nose.
 

Swims350

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yep I noticed that hrpc, didn't know about new ones period but box vans at that lol.

don't I know it, dropped the monte carlo motor in for the first time, didn't put the headers in, PS had to drop the starter and put it in, there was no heater box in it thank god, or it would have never went. Bad thing was you had to have it in place, then bolt the starter up, then bolt up the header to the block, with it in place it was a PITA to get to the starter bolts, with a wrench only, no socket or extension or swivel would work.

The DS, OMG!!!!!!!!!!! had to remove the motor mount bolt that bolts it to the frame mount, remove the block side motor mount, remove the steering shaft, AND jack the motor up on that side. Then it fell into place.

Needless to say this time when we put the 305 in it, to sell it, I had the headers in place first LOl.
 

HotRodPC

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yep I noticed that hrpc, didn't know about new ones period but box vans at that lol.

don't I know it, dropped the monte carlo motor in for the first time, didn't put the headers in, PS had to drop the starter and put it in, there was no heater box in it thank god, or it would have never went. Bad thing was you had to have it in place, then bolt the starter up, then bolt up the header to the block, with it in place it was a PITA to get to the starter bolts, with a wrench only, no socket or extension or swivel would work.

The DS, OMG!!!!!!!!!!! had to remove the motor mount bolt that bolts it to the frame mount, remove the block side motor mount, remove the steering shaft, AND jack the motor up on that side. Then it fell into place.

Needless to say this time when we put the 305 in it, to sell it, I had the headers in place first LOl.

Yeah, it only takes making that mistake once, and you'll never do it again. Headers go in first, then hang them to the sides on the a arm or something so they are out of the way to set the motor down.. Also on cars, to remove the trans only, you have to remove at least 1 header, sometimes both to get clearance for the trans to come down. Headers are a bitch in a car body. They also ride close to wiring and trans pans etc and keep other stuff hotter than normal. One reason I love trucks. So much more room and parts are more foregiving.
 

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It's easier to change the plugs in a V8 Astro than it is a V6.

The radiator support comes out of vans easy enough...

is it really? i've been thinking AWD V8 Astro...
 

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I dont know if was mentioned earlier or not but where do you bolt up each end of chain at on the engine? What removing the clutch off the flywheel and reinstalling on the flywheel on the replacement engine?
 
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Swims350

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intake bolts, front and rear of the heads? exhaust manifold spots maybe.
 

crazy4offroad

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I always use the back of the passenger side head and front of the driver side head to hook the chain up.
 

davbell22602

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intake bolts, front and rear of the heads? exhaust manifold spots maybe.

So the chain should bolt up in the 4 corners of the intake? So thats not gonna work with my hoist. I chain with where it only bolts up in 2 spots.
 

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Front and rear of the heads as mentioned previously. Or got to Vato-zone and getcha a motor plate that bolts in place of the carb (which I would only use on a cast iron mani)
 

davbell22602

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Front and rear of the heads as mentioned previously. Or got to Vato-zone and getcha a motor plate that bolts in place of the carb (which I would only use on a cast iron mani)

Does it have to be bolted up in 4 places?
 

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