Got an engine miss devoloping...

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Jims86

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Seeing as he has new heads,and before he drives it off a cliff, maybe a leakdown test should be done...at least on 3 and 5. a crossover between cylinders would cause a shitload of pinging on accelleration.
 

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It is a good idea to do the test. I was assuming the heads were off due to the pictures. If the heads are not off then the leak down would be one of the test he could run.
 

89Suburban

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The white **** is contamination in the combustion process. The pattern on the block is the reason for suspecting a problem. It should have the same gasket pattern as the other cylinders do.

Contamination from what? Anything in particular? I mean black is oil or raw fuel right? So is white water? Or maybe from detergents on the oil or something in the gas? Ethanol in the fuel?

I can see your points about the gasket pattern on the head surface, but wouldn't the gasket be fried then? The gasket looked fine when I yanked it out.

And I am assuming, and this is why I asked earlier, that even if it is possible the block deck surface can warp, wouldn't that be very rare? I figured with the brand new heads and gaskets it should be fine?

Here is a pic of one of the old gaskets I dug up, and the thread it is from with other pics:

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1212&highlight=head&page=8

You must be registered for see images attach
 

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The head gasket in this picture shows the same signs as the pattern on the block. Notice the dark brown area between the cylinders. The metal ring that goes around the cylinder is called a fire ring , it has signs of rust from a leak. It appears to have been leaking a very small amount. It is possible for a block to warp but it is not likely, that would require a long exposure to overheating. Have you laid a straight edge on the block and heads yet? There is the possiblity that it is simply a head gasket issue. It could have been defective.

The contamination is from the water and antifreeze. If you have large amounts in the cylinder it will actually clean the top of the piston and the base of the head, but this only had small amounts in there.
 

crazy4offroad

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@Guardian :waytogo:
John since you have a water passage between those 2 headbolt holes on the right it wouldnt be a stretch to imagine once the gasket blew the water passage was able to weep a little water into the combustion chamber as well.
 

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So in a nutshell, I put brand new aftermarket heads and perma-tourque gaskets on and I still have a problem with water somehow getting into the cylinders.

Might have to go back to Dodge trucks again after all this crap. :shitsweak:
 

Jims86

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Same thing happens to all trucks, regardless of make. I seriousely dont think you have ever overheated this truck, have you? Those old heads are prone to cracking, and i would bet thats what happened.
that area between the cylinders wont let coolant in, but would cause a crossover, that would make that engine sound like a4bt cummins when you hit the gas...and i doubt you would want to drive it at all.

@Gaurdian, these pics are from last year.
 

89Suburban

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No, I never overheated it. And it don;t sound like any Cummins. This thing is just breaking at the seams ready to kick ass and I just got to get everything set right.
 

bucket

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No, I never overheated it. And it don;t sound like any Cummins. This thing is just breaking at the seams ready to kick ass and I just got to get everything set right.

Are you willing to try getting gas from somewhere else? I'd probably try fresh plugs and a different filling station.
 

Jims86

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Are you willing to try getting gas from somewhere else? I'd probably try fresh plugs and a different filling station.

I agree, from what John said earlier, his favorite fillin station seems to be the only consistency here.
 

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Since the engine isn't torn apart!! I agree with fresh plugs and fuel.
 

Jims86

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Hey John, did you get that timing fixed yet? if not, set it to 4 on your bent pointer....just spent 10 minutes staring at the pic....4 should be about right.
 

89Suburban

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Hey John, did you get that timing fixed yet? if not, set it to 4 on your bent pointer....just spent 10 minutes staring at the pic....4 should be about right.

Thanks Jim, no I have not had time to mess with it yet. And it has been running pretty damn good after I changed the plugs it hasn't made any of those funny timing noises so I have just been running it. I am going to try that though because I know it has to be off. And that is a less time consuming task.

So unplug the brown wire and set it to 4 right?

I think I am going to be under my mom's car Sunday working on her cooling fan so I might have to wait until next weekend. I will update when I can get to this. I got to get my damn high beams and horn fixed too so that is also a priority also.

One other thing is in the morning on a cold start the idle seems to surge up and down and runs a little rough for the first minute or two then runs fine the rest of the day. Don't know what that is all about, it's been doing that for a while now.

Working 6 days a week and 2 teenage daughters, I just don't have the time for **** this year, it's very frustrating.
 

Jims86

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Yup, pull the plug, set it to 4(per the picture) plug it back in, and disconnect the battery for 15 seconds, then connect and start it up...let the computer relearn everything. If you can, take a few drives at around 30 mph to help it along.
 

jake wells

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try some shell or sunoco gas they have very good gas here. the other gas stations around here have ash in the gas fouling the spark plugs on my truck
 

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