Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering & Brakes' started by Craig P, Nov 13, 2019.
Thanks! My boss is generous enough to let me use the shop after work, and also store the truck. Here’s a few dumb questions for you, could i use3/4 ton springs? Are they the same length? I imagine they would ride higher..(and stiffer). I see rock auto sells stock 1/2 ton springs but if they don’t raise the ride height there’s no sense spending the money. I want to lift a bit but not so much i have to start changing other components. The previous owner put some load levellers on the front so I figured the springs were sagged.
Hi again. I’ve also seen guys make some longer shackles to raise the front end. What do you think of that? I figure that’s not the best way to go but then again that guy drove a jeep so...
My 73 3/4 ton was available with different load capacities. So I'm guessing that the springs were different.
POINT: Saying "3/4 ton springs" is not specific enough.
Ok good to know thanks !
2 inch lift springs will clear 33s ... but full crank offroading with flex may make contact ... I run 33 12.5 on factory ralleys and offroad and haven't hit once ... and the 2 inch lift springs will look flat .. but they do enough
Plenty of room !
Here's better look at um ... they look little arched here.. but keep in mind the frame is unloaded ... no engine and body ... and stock steering is maintained btw
You must be talking about the shackles up front...? These longer shackles are not for lift, but to increase the castor. The factory units on our trucks are kinda wimpy and aftermarket (ORDs) shackles are made from heavier material. Also, very important, lift spring with positive arched springs will hit the frame under compression. As the positive arched spring flatten out under compression they get... longer!
And WHACK they go on the bottom of the frame. Next comes broken parts..
Ok that’s great info, thanks for that. I will most likely go with a 2” lift spring. I’m hoping to keep things as stock as possible with the 33’s. I’m still not clear on what year to order, i know i have a 70’s frame. I assume they were all the same length? I just don’t want to get the wrong ones and have to return,etc.
I am not aware of the changes in front leads but mine is a 82 that I restored ... lmc should mention if there a difference ... just as a reference guide
ALL 73-87 OE front springs, 1/2-3/4T, are the same length.
Stock springs will not bottom out on frame unless bushings are shot. OE springs in stock position can not flex long enough to hit.
Ok cool thank you
Here's a little info on springs for these Chevy's.
There are 2 different size rear springs, 52" and 56". No one, including GM, seems to know why they are on some trucks and not others. Front springs were all 48" (some say 47" but they are all the same). You can take the rear 52" springs and put them in front, remove the overloads and you will get around 4" lift and a better ride, but it requires a lot of work. Putting 56" springs is also doable. Then you just need to buy springs for the rear. If you are buying a lift make sure you measure your rear springs along the arch from eye to eye, not straight across.
Another thing you can do for the best leaf spring ride possible is get the rear springs from an '88-'98 truck. They are 64", though you need to move both your rear spring hangars to do this but the ride is Cadillac comfy!
Also don't forget if you lift your truck you will need longer brake lines, longer shocks, lifted steering arm, longer driveshafts and if you keep the sway bar you need extended links.
I think that about covers it.
Thanks for the info. I only plan on lifting the front on my truck.. the rears have been replaced with heavy half springs so i just want the front to come up a bit.. not planning on doing any major off road stuff. It will be a pavement princess and winter daily. Sorry for cursing lol
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