Finally got a running 65 C10

[Ricko1966]

The Rotella T4, while it does have the higher zddp levels, also has more detergents in it that are meant for use in a diesel engine. Those detergents can actually increase wear in a flat tappet gas engine. This is something that I just recently learned.

Shell live documents 8/15/2023 shell says good for off road gas engines. They did change some of the ratings due to the high dzzp and catalytic converters,but IDK maybe something has changed in a year and a half.

 

[bucket]

Shell live documents 8/15/2023 shell says good for off road gas engines. They did change some of the ratings due to the high dzzp and catalytic converters,but IDK maybe something has changed in a year and a half.

I don't know. All I know is that a little while back, I watched a test video that Lake Speed Jr did, with lab test results afterwards. I'm only a graduate of youtube university, lol.

 

[Ricko1966]

I don't know. All I know is that a little while back, I watched a test video that Lake Speed Jr did, with lab test results afterwards. I'm only a graduate of youtube university, lol.

IDK either, all any of us can do is research to the best of our ability and make our own decisions. Honestly I was trying to buy VR1 but the oil help line guy told me what he told me. He coukd have been laughing as he hung up the phone.

 

[1low4x4]

Thanks guys

 

[1low4x4]

Got some valvoline vr1 in it and pre oiled it.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Used to be only cars with factory installed radios got the firewall ground,for noise suppression.

Well, not exactly. My 1956 has a braided ground from the battery to the firewall from the factory. Then low on the firewall right to the starter. The braided ground was for heat dispersion. *?

The '56 did not even have a radio. Most older vehicles had very few electrical accessories. The front end, fenders, radiator all got their ground from the body, no wires.

* Heat dispersion. The braided ground was used/perceived to cool the battery.

 

[1low4x4]

Few more items today, need to go buy a real spark plug socket, swear I’ve had a dozen over the years but none to be found now. I broke one already. I also got a spark plug hole chaser

 

[1low4x4]

Last night I put the spark plugs in which was a beast because these headers are terrible. You can only reach number six from underneath and tighten with a wrench. I’ve had way better truck headers before. I bolted up the header collectors with the new copper gaskets. I put cotter pins in all of the clutch linkage. Today I filled up the radiator with antifreeze and water, and discovered that both front brass freeze plugs are leaking, the one by the starter and the one by the oil pump and at least one under the motor mount. Basically all of them. I didn’t mess with the ones on the back of the engine.

I figured maybe I didn’t tap them in enough, there was about an eighth of an inch lip so I got the big socket and hammer out and tapped the front two in Moore and it just got worse. They are leaking big time in the front.So now basically the whole engine has to come back out or disconnected and way up so I can put steel plugs in I guess. I really don’t understand why this happened and I’m really down about it. I was so close.

 

[Turbo4whl]

I really don’t understand why this happened and I’m really down about it. I was so close.

You used sealant, correct? Number 2 Permatex for coolant is my preference.

 

[1low4x4]

No, I didn’t use sealant. I’ve never seen anyone personally use sealant on freeze plugs so I had no idea. I’ve never had an issue and I’ve built a few engines.

I think I’m going to replace the one that’s leaking really badly upfront, I already got it out. Then I’m going to drop a distributor in it and plug wires and fire it up. Break in the cam at least, and then see if any of the plugs seal themselves. I’m closer to starting it than I am to pulling it out. That’s for damn sure.

 

[Turbo4whl]

Sometimes you can replace freeze plugs with a tool like this, engine in vehicle.

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You need to make your attack from under the vehicle. So a lift is also necessary. This one is on Amazon. The used Snap-On tool on E-bay showed sealant left over on the adapters. Couldn't pull the picture without the whole link. Too expensive anyway.

 

[Ricko1966]

Couple of things I'd try depending on where everything is at. Freeze a new freeze plug the day before you install it and warm the block with a propane torch. It should just about fall in.If you need a driver flip an appropriate socket backwards and put it on a wobbly universal use whatever extension gets you the length you need. Another option sometimes is a tie rod from a rack and pinion car put the rack end against the freeze plug. I can get you a pic of the socket arrangement tomorrow if I didn't explain it clear enough.