Finally got a running 65 C10

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1low4x4

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Got the poppy’s patina gloss clear coat wiped on and I think it’s gonna look good when it dries. Def will stop it from rusting.

Have done nothing mechanical to it but gonna buy some spark plugs tomorrow at least lol
 

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1low4x4

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Stupid question that I'm not shy to ask cause its been a long time....main negative battery cable goes to frame rail? What about engine to frame or firewall? I dont think this truck had one...
 

Ricko1966

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Stupid question that I'm not shy to ask cause its been a long time....main negative battery cable goes to frame rail? What about engine to frame or firewall? I dont think this truck had one...
Should have 3 grounds they can daisy.chain if you like. 1 to engine,1 to body 1 to frame. Some are going to tell you you have to have a braided one from cylinder head to firewall. I call B.S. as long as yoi have the other 3 grounds and they are good. Used to be only cars with factory installed radios got the firewall ground,for noise suppression. It does act as a body ground though if yours is sketchy. Personally I'd run battery to engine,jump from that same mounting point to the frame,and do battery to radiator support.
 

CountKrunk

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@Ricko1966 so you're saying

Two grounds from battery, one to rad support one to engine

One ground from engine to frame.

What gauge wire would you recommend?
 

Ricko1966

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@Ricko1966 so you're saying

Two grounds from battery, one to rad support one to engine

One ground from engine to frame.

What gauge wire would you recommend?
It will depend on a couple of things,it's not truly a 1 size fits all deal. The length of the wires affects the gauge needed. The maximum amperage draw affects the gauge needed. I'll put a thumbnail to a gauge to length chart,so everyone can evaluate there own situation. Keep your runs as short as is practical. I'd say 2 gauge,battery to engine,2 gauge engine to frame and 8 gauge battery to body. That's assuming battery to body is around a foot. For most people this is more than adequate.
 

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1low4x4

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what oil should I use to break in? Ive heard rotella has zinc and all the things engines like
 

1low4x4

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It will depend on a couple of things,it's not truly a 1 size fits all deal. The length of the wires affects the gauge needed. The maximum amperage draw affects the gauge needed. I'll put a thumbnail to a gauge to length chart,so everyone can evaluate there own situation. Keep your runs as short as is practical. I'd say 2 gauge,battery to engine,2 gauge engine to frame and 8 gauge battery to body. That's assuming battery to body is around a foot. For most people this is more than adequate.
Yes, It has 8 gauge from the battery to the core support, and 2 gauge from battery to engine. I just need to go to frame.
 

Ricko1966

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what oil should I use to break in? Ive heard rotella has zinc and all the things engines like
I like Rotella T4 15/40 ,but I actually would follow whatever your cam manufacturer says. That way in case there are any problems,you can tell them I followed your directions to the letter. Did I already advise you earlier to run single springs for break in and to make sure all pushrods are spinning?
 

DoubleDingo

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I've never used break-in oil, but last break-in I did was April 2017. I'm a firm believer it's more about long heat cycles, of course with good oil. I run valvoline conventional, but I've heard that may not be available anymore.

I'd suggest like @Ricko1966 said, use what the cam manufacturer says to use, but still long heat cycles
 

DoubleDingo

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How long is a long heat cycle to you? @DoubleDingo
I would drive it an hour and longer. Basically drive it like it was intended to be driven as a factory-built unit. Of course this happens after the break-in.
 

legopnuematic

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VR1 is what I’ve started using in my gas burners. Has the proper ZDDP in it. Should be able to get at Walmart for ~$27/5qt
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Ricko1966

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VR1 is what I’ve started using in my gas burners. Has the proper ZDDP in it. Should be able to get at Walmart for ~$27/5qt
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That was how how I got turned on to the Rotella T4 15/40. I called the Valvoline hot line to ask about the VR1 for my Chevelle. Turns out the call center isn't just Valvoline it is an umbrella helpline for many oil brands. Anyway their help guy told me run Rotella T4 15 40 it had all the DZZP,etc.that i need and would be what I should run. You know this has been at least a decade ago,and things do change over time. And,time makes memories fade,I think I may have been calling the helpline trying to buy VR1 from them or find where I could buy it because I couldn't find it anywhere near where I live.( I live in the sticks,any stores anywhere near me are scaled down versions of their real stores)No city,no town,no neighbors,no street lights,no noise,no police. Also no trash pickup,no internet,no sewers,no grocery store,etc. Life has trade offs.
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