Finally got a running 65 C10

[1low4x4]

Got the poppy’s patina gloss clear coat wiped on and I think it’s gonna look good when it dries. Def will stop it from rusting.

Have done nothing mechanical to it but gonna buy some spark plugs tomorrow at least lol

 

[1low4x4]

Stupid question that I'm not shy to ask cause its been a long time....main negative battery cable goes to frame rail? What about engine to frame or firewall? I dont think this truck had one...

 

[Ricko1966]

Stupid question that I'm not shy to ask cause its been a long time....main negative battery cable goes to frame rail? What about engine to frame or firewall? I dont think this truck had one...

Should have 3 grounds they can daisy.chain if you like. 1 to engine,1 to body 1 to frame. Some are going to tell you you have to have a braided one from cylinder head to firewall. I call B.S. as long as yoi have the other 3 grounds and they are good. Used to be only cars with factory installed radios got the firewall ground,for noise suppression. It does act as a body ground though if yours is sketchy. Personally I'd run battery to engine,jump from that same mounting point to the frame,and do battery to radiator support.

 

[CountKrunk]

@Ricko1966 so you're saying

Two grounds from battery, one to rad support one to engine

One ground from engine to frame.

What gauge wire would you recommend?

 

[Ricko1966]

@Ricko1966 so you're saying

Two grounds from battery, one to rad support one to engine

One ground from engine to frame.

What gauge wire would you recommend?

It will depend on a couple of things,it's not truly a 1 size fits all deal. The length of the wires affects the gauge needed. The maximum amperage draw affects the gauge needed. I'll put a thumbnail to a gauge to length chart,so everyone can evaluate there own situation. Keep your runs as short as is practical. I'd say 2 gauge,battery to engine,2 gauge engine to frame and 8 gauge battery to body. That's assuming battery to body is around a foot. For most people this is more than adequate.

 

[1low4x4]

what oil should I use to break in? Ive heard rotella has zinc and all the things engines like

 

[1low4x4]

It will depend on a couple of things,it's not truly a 1 size fits all deal. The length of the wires affects the gauge needed. The maximum amperage draw affects the gauge needed. I'll put a thumbnail to a gauge to length chart,so everyone can evaluate there own situation. Keep your runs as short as is practical. I'd say 2 gauge,battery to engine,2 gauge engine to frame and 8 gauge battery to body. That's assuming battery to body is around a foot. For most people this is more than adequate.

Yes, It has 8 gauge from the battery to the core support, and 2 gauge from battery to engine. I just need to go to frame.

 

[Ricko1966]

what oil should I use to break in? Ive heard rotella has zinc and all the things engines like

I like Rotella T4 15/40 ,but I actually would follow whatever your cam manufacturer says. That way in case there are any problems,you can tell them I followed your directions to the letter. Did I already advise you earlier to run single springs for break in and to make sure all pushrods are spinning?

 

[DoubleDingo]

I've never used break-in oil, but last break-in I did was April 2017. I'm a firm believer it's more about long heat cycles, of course with good oil. I run valvoline conventional, but I've heard that may not be available anymore.

I'd suggest like @Ricko1966 said, use what the cam manufacturer says to use, but still long heat cycles

 

[CountKrunk]

How long is a long heat cycle to you? @DoubleDingo

 

[DoubleDingo]

How long is a long heat cycle to you? @DoubleDingo

I would drive it an hour and longer. Basically drive it like it was intended to be driven as a factory-built unit. Of course this happens after the break-in.