Finally got a running 65 C10

[legopnuematic]

It would appear that 1955 265 blocks were the only ones to have the road draft tube go through the bell housing, and also lack an oil filter boss on the block, they still had no filter, or an optional bypass setup like the stovebolts did.

1956 onward had a cast in oil filter housing and road draft went behind the cylinder head.

 

[idahovette]

You can take the can out and toss it. As long as you set up a pcv system you're good......BUT you have to cap the hole behind the distributor somehow. I've used the original cap with the bolt thru the middle that screws into the block and then just put a cap on the open end.....or if you can find the proper size freeze plug that would work.

 

[1low4x4]

God, that’s ugly. Maybe it will look better once I put the polished valve covers back on. My dumbass bought regular ARP bolts not realizing this cover needs Allen head bolts with no shoulder on them to work. Hopefully they’ll be here tomorrow evening from Summit, they are pretty quick.

 

[1low4x4]

@Ricko1966

 

[bucket]

God, that’s ugly. Maybe it will look better once I put the polished valve covers back on. My dumbass bought regular ARP bolts not realizing this cover needs Allen head bolts with no shoulder on them to work. Hopefully they’ll be here tomorrow evening from Summit, they are pretty quick.

They also tend to get hidden behind the water pump.

 

[1low4x4]

Got the Chevrolet on the grille painted up

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[CountKrunk]

This was pages back but I'm camp 4L80e with a standalone controller.

Not sure how easily that mates up with your engine though.

 

[1low4x4]

This was pages back but I'm camp 4L80e with a standalone controller.

Not sure how easily that mates up with your engine though.

Honestly would make the most sense, if I'm eventually trying a 500 hp 355. Ive already done it on another truck

 

[1low4x4]

One of the things I like to do is realize I don't have the right bolts, order some more that will postpone my project 2 days, (and cost me another $11 in shipping) then the day after, clean up the garage and realize the allen head bolts I needed were there the whole time, in the styrofoam that the timing cover came in

 

[bucket]

One of the things I like to do is realize I don't have the right bolts, order some more that will postpone my project 2 days, (and cost me another $11 in shipping) then the day after, clean up the garage and realize the allen head bolts I needed were there the whole time, in the styrofoam that the timing cover came in

It happens to everyone, lol

 

[1low4x4]

Well, it’s all sealed up. Since I found the stupid bolts to the timing cover today after work, I got it put in, and then the oil pan. My oil pan spreaders were not right, I’ll have to go back on my order and see what went wrong. But honestly, it doesn’t even need them. Got the block drain plugs back in, new temporary oil filter, and 5 quarts of whatever was cheapest at O’Reillys. Run it tomorrow evening sometime hopefully, get it hot, swap it for wix and VR1.

I didn’t return the stamped chrome Edelbrock valve covers I bought last week, because I wanted to try the grommets they have. Sure enough, they fit extremely tight, way tighter than the ones that came with these cast aluminum covers. In fact, the new 1970 Corvette PCV valve and the cap with the fitting for returning to the air cleaner both fit in each valve cover extremely tight. Very happy with that.

Tomorrow morning, I’m going to start bolting accessories back on. Got some cleaning to do on the carburetor, and the alternator. I’m going to have to get a long bolt for the alternator bracket, and put a lock washer and a nut on the back because it won’t stay tight, and I’m extremely close to stripping it out. Eventually, I’m definitely going with a serpentine system. There’s a really nice one for like 400 bucks floating around the Classic truck site that everyone uses. Yes I know I could retrofit something, but….. and when I do that, I want to do power steering, and I have watched a bunch of videos on different kits and all of them are nothing but trouble. It’s almost guaranteed you have to cut drill and weld to make any of the kits work, which is really bizarre to me.

 

[DoubleDingo]

It's been a few years since I did the power steering swap on Mean Green. Got the kit from REZ Engineering, it was simple, but yeah you have to cut & drill some things for it to work. Shorten the steering shaft. Cut the bumper bracket a little. I had to cut the exhaust manifold to get the pump belt to line up and brackets to bolt up. I don't remember drilling the frame but probably did. Install the bracket and steering gear, bolt up the steering shaft, install the hoses, the belt, tierods, burp it, get it aligned, install a smaller steering wheel and front sway bar, and enjoy the improved steering and handling characteristics

 

[1low4x4]

Well she’s back, looks like I still have problems on the bottom side. Set the timing to 36 total, but might jump down to 34 because it wanted to diesel. For the first time in my life, I bothered to do an actual 50-50 mix of coolant and distilled water instead of just dumping 1 gallon in and filling the rest up with tapwater. Hopefully that will keep corrosion down. No more brown coolant. Ran some cheap oil in it to flush whatever I may have knocked down there, drained it and put the VR1 back in. It really does need that thicker oil for pressure.

The new thermostat water neck came with a steel plug in it, it started leaking, so that was fun having to remove it, put Teflon on it and put it back. Green stuff everywhere. I need to cut a fuel filter back into the new hose. I installed from the pump. Forgot about it.

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[bucket]

If it diesels when you shut it off, turn the base idle screw down. May have too much transfer slot exposed.

 

[1low4x4]

I'm starting to wonder if I indeed have the wrong year oil pan gasket