Experienced masters, please provide restoration guidance

[JasonStern]

Apologies if this is the wrong forum to post this. New member suggestion that creating a restoration forum might be worth considering.

All vehicles, but trucks especially, are insanely overpriced. $35k OTD for a FWD Hybrid Ford? Ehh… This is why the average ‘Merican is so in debt.

Grew up with a 1979 K10. Been “covered” (whatever that means) on my parent’s farm, unused for ~20 years. Sentimental value. Love it. Let’s bring it back to life. Since I am new to this platform, I’m eager to learn and willing to know my role and shut my mouth. Hopefully, some people smarter than me can help me plan this out.

Yes, I Googled and read posts. There is a ton of information available on how to restore a K10 into some drag race or off-road beast, and some restorations that just feast on junkyard parts. But there is very little information on how to build a daily.

Step 1 – What are we working with?

$10k budget.

West coast truck, so no rust issues.

Engine is shot. Thus being a “I’ll get to it eventually” special.

Transmission and differential are probably still good, but would likely need to be serviced. I’m hoping this just means fluid swaps…?

Any wear items (please speak up) need to be replaced.

Vehicle is in another state. Southern Oregon specifically should anyone have mechanic recommendations. I can do some labor once it’s driveable enough to get it to my home. But I’ll have to pay a mechanic to do a brunt of the up-front work. Cost of paying a mechanic versus paying a shipping company to transport it, plus the fear of not actually finishing the project versus just paying to get it done.

No major time frame on this – again, third vehicle and I’d be selling my current third vehicle to fund this.

Step 2 – Goals/Expectations.

Again, $10k budget.

A running, reliable truck. This will be a third vehicle.

No smog requirements. Classic vehicle exemption.

Not trying to build a high horsepower vehicle (although I won’t turn down cheap/free HP).

Not trying to lift or slam it.

Other than professionally cleaning the interior due to sitting, addressing the interior and exterior are outside the scope.

Since it’s a third vehicle, I’ll pay for ethanol free gas and am fine running a carb. Do note that 87 octane is all that is available ethanol free, so keep compression reasonable.

So, here’s the first pass.

4 Goodyear Wrangler TrailRunner AT tires installed - $600
I’m not running on 20+ year old tires – death wish. Cracks don’t add character.

Interior cleaning - $200
Sitting “covered” for 20 years – just pay to get the interior sanitized. Don’t worry about cracks, seat rips, whatever else I’ll eventually find and deal with.

Fuel Tanks - $250
Obvious.

The exhaust might be fine, but the parts seem cheap enough and the vehicle is old enough that it makes sense to address them now.

Headers - $169
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9006

Exhaust - $317
https://www.summitracing.com/search...st-systems?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

That seems oddly cheap to me. But no catalytic converters, so if it’s mostly just piping – maybe not?

I will assume that the suspension is fine or can be addressed at a later date. Again, not looking to lift or slam the old boy.

Radiator - $200?
Don’t chance the build. Any recommendations? Again, don’t need something to support a 500hp build.

Brakes - $600?
I’d imagine that sitting that long, some things must be replaced (fluid, obviously). But maybe booster, lines, rotor/pads?

Transmission - $3000?
Anything that needs to be addressed will be excluded from the price estimate. Potential new torque converter (cheap enough to buy new) and rebuilt th350.

Differential - ???
The only people that I know that have had differential problems are BMW SUV owners. Anything I should be worried about?

Alternator - $100
Seems like the ideal time to replace to avoid any issues down the line.

Random crap - $1000?
Hoses, fluids, filters, gaskets, etc.

Engine – The real serious question that can turn this into a brilliant idea bringing back the old boy and financial ruin.
(Showing my age – Chevy used to have brand new long blocks for like $1500-1800...)
So far, we’re at around $2600 in parts presuming the transmission is serviceable and salvageable.
Plan here was to have a turn-key engine installed. Handles the carb and ignition concerns.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp99c/make/chevrolet/model/k10/year/1979
...seems like the best option that I have found. But I imagine that there are enthusiast shops that can meet that price with a better build (quality and/or performance). Ideas?

That puts us at roughly $6250. That leaves $3750 for labor and problems I didn’t foresee. With another $3k for transmission work that will possibly need to be done upfront, but hopefully put off – just know that I will have to address it.

Please provide any advice on what I am missing, best reliable value parts, and probably most importantly – any reliable mechanics in southern Oregon that can handle something like this. Thanks!

 

[Squarescare]

Im in a similar situation got my k20 out of a junkyard in pieces after 3 years I put it all together i focused on drivability first and drive train reliability so engine transmission brakes frame All that jazz. Only thing I've got left to do is take the cab off and repair it and then I can paint it took me forever just a weekend warrior but I drive it everyday


Also I got two brand new rear fenders and a bed floor of facebook for 400$ Facebook's loaded with parts

 

[CalSgt]

Honestly Sir, there is no one specific way to skin a cat (or build a vehicle)

I agree with not running 20 year old weather checked tires but would not replace until I was ready to start driving it.

Unless the interior has mice/rat odors, wipe everything down and vacuum, buy a seat cover if needed. Don’t bother using your tight budget to have a detailer go through and do what you can with some elbow grease.

If the brakes are in serviceable condition just lube the contact points, flush the fluid and bleed.

Wear parts to consider would be ball joints, tie rod ends, driveshaft U-joints and maybe shocks.

Front hub service is mandatory, clean, inspect and pack bearings. Clean, inspect and grease 4x4 hubs.

Look inside the tanks before spending the money on new ones. Mine sat for 12 years and were perfect inside, I only replaced to go fuel injected.

Really, before going the entire way through your itemized list the vast majority seems options as opposed to necessary. Especially since it sounds like you intend to have someone else do the wrenching, that labor is going to hit your wallet a lot harder than you estimate.

For just a driver I would do a compression check on the engine followed by an oil change and fire it up. Maybe a carb rebuild, cap, rotor, plugs and wires if needed.

 

[Ricko1966]

I very seriously doubt you are going to restore it. Guys restoring vehicles will spend $2000.00 for an original radio thats the correct year. They won't be changing their engine they'll rebuild it to factory specs.They'll install the original GM rubber end seals on their intake so they don't lose points. You will spend more money than you can believe to actually restore a vehicle. You are better off just to fix what you can the ways you can,on the budget you have and enjoy your truck. Just reread more of your post Restore means return to original condition,building a race truck,a slammed truck etc. Is not a restoration.

 

[Camar068]

If your buying one, and daily driving it on a working mans budget, it's going to take a long time. I was gonna elaborate, but.....I think that says it all.

Sh|t wears out and needs repaired before you get to the end......a few times in my case lol.

Depends on your monthly/yearly budget.

 

[Grit dog]

Really depends what it needs. But if it needs everything on your list to drive it home, just put it on a U-Haul trailer and drag it home and start working on it.
Guy I bought my 77 C 10 did “everything” and didn’t turn a single wrench on it himself.
New motor complete. Trans rebuild. Most all brake components new. Fuel tanks and tank switcher, new tires, u joints, fuel lines, manifolds, carb, wheel bearings, batteries and cables, hoses and belts, etc and didn’t change the rear diff fluid. Lol!!
He handed me $15k in receipts.
Motor was $7500 for a weak reman with new carb, intake and manifolds, $3k for the trans.
Parts cost if you’re savvy to do all of the above, basically what you’re looking to do is less than half that amount.
$10k would get you there I bet if you did everything but the engine and trans yourself and didn’t spend $7500 under the hood.

 

[hoagster]

If your serious about it just look at some of the build threads on here. @CalSgt is one for attention to detail. Mine is loaded with pictures but I have been at it for sometime and be prepared to spend some "duck it's" if you are going to go as far as we did, but the 2 of us did 90% of all the work to get there. There are others that have done awesome jobs on there trucks some are in-between fixed and rebuilt drive train completely but left the body alone if there was minor rust because they are daily drivers, but it still is a lot of work. Be prepared to get dirty. I forgot to mention @Camar068 068 and @Grit dog they answered your thread because they also have spent a lot of time tinkering with their trucks to make them what they wanted.

 

[Old Guy Bill]

I’ll agree with what’s been posted..
We all have different abilities & budgets though.
I started my build with a aim in mind but definitely went over budget as unknown circumstances occurred

 

[hoagster]

I forgot to mention take some pictures we like to see pictures. No picture it didn't happen

 

[fast 99]

I very seriously doubt you are going to restore it. Guys restoring vehicles will spend $2000.00 for an original radio thats the correct year. They won't be changing their engine they'll rebuild it to factory specs.They'll install the original GM rubber end seals on their intake so they don't lose points. You will spend more money than you can believe to actually restore a vehicle. You are better off just to fix what you can the ways you can,on the budget you have and enjoy your truck. Just reread more of your post Restore means return to original condition,building a race truck,a slammed truck etc. Is not a restoration.

Exactly right, just paid $4100 for a Mustang exhaust system and I already had $1000 of other exhaust parts.

About the same cost as the entire car was when new.

 

[CalSgt]

If your serious about it just look at some of the build threads on here. @CalSgt is one for attention to detail. Mine is loaded with pictures but I have been at it for sometime and be prepared to spend some "duck it's" if you are going to go as far as we did, but the 2 of us did 90% of all the work to get there. There are others that have done awesome jobs on there trucks some are in-between fixed and rebuilt drive train completely but left the body alone if there was minor rust because they are daily drivers, but it still is a lot of work. Be prepared to get dirty. I forgot to mention @Camar068 068 and @Grit dog they answered your thread because they also have spent a lot of time tinkering with their trucks to make them what they wanted.

LOL... It's "Ducats" Mike

You're the only person I've ever encountered use that term outside of "work"

To the OP: @hoagster , @Grit dog , @Old Guy Bill and @fast 99 all make good points regarding budget. I went over my $15K budget by $5K not including many of the small purchases like spray paint cans, sand paper, RTV sealant Etc. which was probably a few thousand dollars more. Take into consideration I did do a very thorough complete build but did not pay for any labor except $800 to sew up my interior, reused every single serviceable part possible and even made some parts from scrap.

 

[Radiohead]

Yup, in my opinion, outside labor is gonna eat that budget right up. With shop rates like they are, better add at least half again as much, more if you get really picky about looks. Or go fast stuff; that eats money like mad.

Lucky me, I do all my work except what I am not set up to do. I'm double my purchase price now and still don't have it in the daily driver camp. In fact, with where it's at now, I wouldn't trust it back and forth to town but I'm walking averse with expired tags and no insurance on it. I live on a two lane road with no shoulders, so...

 

[fast 99]

Last one was one of my old trucks bought new. Needed everything, tranny rebuild, transfer case broken, bad posi, complete brakes, engine: only saved the manifolds and block, rest was junk. Bought a lot of used parts from pick and pull including another set of heads, crank. Needed a lot of body work, new interior. Did not buy any body panels only a front bumper. New tires and wheels. No paid out labor to this point. Can't paint where I live, 5k with materials. Seat belt retractors and re-web, expensive. Didn't add it all up but probably in the area of 15k. This is a low option no AC work truck, more options more cost. Did most of it during Covid 2019-2020 costs have likely gone up espically paint.

 

[xm20k]

It really depends on what you plan to do with it, is it a nice weather only cruiser, a daily, shows only, race car, off roader. And how much rust repair/paint/body work does it need? Body panels are easy to find not cheap but better than some other vehicles. Mechanical parts are available and common enough; some trim and other various bits and pieces may be a bit harder to find as often times the originals don't hold up after 40-50 years and some are not reproduced due to being used for only one or two years and then a design change that then continued for a decade.

Mines a Resto-mod/pro street build not a stock restoration and price of the truck included I've got almost a year's wages in it and not done. That is with no body work only a set of aftermarket fenders (going on once the weather shifts) I painted myself and no rust repair. However, I bought mine knowing I could get every inch of sheet metal for it. I don't care if it is absolutely original it started life as a cheap disposable work truck made in the millions and sold in the 4-6k range new. It may one day be worth...scratch that I'll probably be dead and the truck if still around might be worth something after another 50 years nowhere near the 40-50k I have in it.

The bare frame, cab and bed will be the only original parts left after the new fenders go on.

You have to really be sure what you want to do with it because some things are not easy/cheap to undo once you've done them. I'm currently looking to buy another to keep stock and make a reliable daily out of because this truck is fun but sometimes a bit overkill and scary to drive in the wet. Even though it is truck shaped it really is no longer built to do truck things.

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[edgephoto]

I spend more than a new truck would cost restoring my 1987 V3500. I already owned the truck and did not touch the engine internals. I did a ton of work myself. I had a body shop do the body work. I did mechanical stuff, cleaned up driveline and painted it all. I redid the interior.

Paint was crazy expensive. The body guy became a friend after doing my truck. I saw some of the prices for paint, primer, body filler, etc. No wonder shops are closing. Can't make any money.