dropped and new shoes installed

[smoothandlow84]

Here's my 84 shortbox project. I already installed a 5/7 drop using spindles, springs and lowering shackles and a c notch out back. I recently installed some 20x8 wheels up front and 20x10 wheels in the rear. While the rears clear without issue, the fronts required removing the inner fenderwells and trimming the inner fender to eliminate tire contact. I will be fabbing new high clearance front fenderwells in time. It runs, drives, shifts..(350 tbi and a 700r automatic with overdrive).....but I need to get started on the bodywork. Im having a difficult time deciding if I should NOT install drip rails on the cab. I opted to ditch all the other trim and emblems. Any input?

I also need to source the cowl and windshield wiper arms as well. The previous owner didn't have them. I looked up on the LMC Truck website, but couldn't find the wiper arms or cowl pieces.

 

[J Knight]

Looks cool.

Cowl and wiper arms can be easily found in the junk yard.

 

[smoothandlow84]

I found a local guy on craigslist who had all of the parts that I need. The cowl, grill trim, gauge cluster pieces, passenger side fender marker light, front chrome bumper with the brackets and the little spring for the ash tray.

I gave up on salvage yards. After calling for three days and nothing but dead ends on parts and NO return calls...thank goodness for craigslist.!

I finished up a bulk of the bodywork this weekend.

Now its time to get to work with the newly found goodies.

 

[mbl530]

My front cross member was removed and a Scotts dropped crossmember installed. These units are shortened 1.5 inches on each side, to help tuck 20" tires deeper in the wheel well, so hopefully I won't have any rubbing issues. I will be p*** if they do rub.

 

[smoothandlow84]

Latest update on my ongoing build....

Completely rebuilt the 700r transmission and installed some billet corvette internals. Shift kit, trans lock and torque converter.

replaced all the upper and lower ball joints

installed new aftermarket bumpstops (urethane)

Had a custom dual exhaust installed with dual Magna Flows, turnouts dump in front of the rear tires...square stainless steel tips, one on passenger and the other on drivers side.

installed a headlight "on" wire buzzer from LMC truck.

New window rubber, LMC

New dash bezel

New steering wheel

made a sub enclosure with two 12" kenwoods

converted all interior lighting to leds, including instrument lights

FINALLY got the oem clock to work...it actually keeps accurate time too!

New chrome valve covers, air filter, and MSD 8.5 mm heli core wires.

fabbed a new battery hold down bracket.

fabbed some " in the works" inner fenderwells , since the oem one rubbed the tires.

flushed the coolant system and installed new hoses and thermostat. I also discovered a leaky casting plug which was replaced with a brass unit. Previous idiot owner used water instead of coolant.

Installed new brake lines and replaced brake fluid, bled brakes.


....been busy and still have more bodywork to complete before paint job.

 

[mbl530]

Only my 2 cents, I think the square body trucks do look better with the drip rails and emblems removed, especially when going with a dark paint scheme.

 

[smoothandlow84]

I'm waiting on my tailgate handle relocation setup any day now. I will be filling in the tailgate handle and moving the release handle to the inside of the tailgate. I don't plan on installing drip rails or keeping the corner mouldings either. My color scheme will be a powder blue as it was the color of my first square body years ago. I want to keep this build clean and simple. This weekend I will be tackling the interior, starting off with covering the plastic door panels (always hated the plastic and the heat always drys/fades them). My headliner needs replaced too. I will post up some progress pics...lots to do. Paint will be last.

 

[smoothandlow84]

My front cross member was removed and a Scotts dropped crossmember installed. These units are shortened 1.5 inches on each side, to help tuck 20" tires deeper in the wheel well, so hopefully I won't have any rubbing issues. I will be p*** if they do rub.

Let me know how the front crossmember works out. I kept the oem crossmember and was able to tuck the front 20x8" rims on mine......must be the offset that the place I bought the tire and wheel setup went with. The only rub issue I had was caused by the previous owner hacking off the lower bump stop mounts. I ended up welding in new lower brackets and I nstalling some polyurethane bump stops. I would much rather hit the bum stops then chew up the new and expensive front tires. My rear tires (20x10") with the offset they are give me approximately 1/2" of space between the outer sidewall and the rear fenderwells.


Post pics of your build as I am curious about it.

 

[mbl530]

so I am guessing your front backspace is around 4.5", and your rear is around 5.5". The Scotts's crossmember is narrowed 3 ". !.5" per side, so this helps out with tire rub on say a 4.5-4.75 backspace. I am doing the rear drop now, a total of 7-8 inches, the the big question 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft. both have their good points and bad points. That is why I want to hear it from the experts.

 

[mbl530]

As soon as I get my new phone I will start posting pics of my build. I finally got the bolts loose on my leaf springs. I order a new set from Eaton Detroit, that has a built in 2" drop. That with the Mcgauphy axle flip and c notch will give me right around 8 inch total drop in the rear. My frame is all being wire wheeled/ground down. I've been using a product called Rust Bullet on the frame. Two coats and it is guaranteed for 10 years rust free. I've topcoated it with their black egg shell, wiith these 3 coats it really does have a powder coat look to it, and it's supposed to be very durable against stone chips. This is yet to be seen. My truck when finished will only be a weekend driver.

 

[mbl530]

Did you get your tail gate relocator handle from Mar-k? I got the smooth tailgate cover from them, along with the relocator handle. I am only guessing but they make no mention about a continuous weld along thee vertical sides, I don't think tacks would look that good, and certainly don't need moisture to get in. Any ideas?
I keep forgetting to mention, your truck is coming along great. I really like the wheels. They will look great with blue paint.

 

[smoothandlow84]

Did you get your tail gate relocator handle from Mar-k? I got the smooth tailgate cover from them, along with the relocator handle. I am only guessing but they make no mention about a continuous weld along thee vertical sides, I don't think tacks would look that good, and certainly don't need moisture to get in. Any ideas?
I keep forgetting to mention, your truck is coming along great. I really like the wheels. They will look great with blue paint.

I received my tailgate relocation kit yesterday. I finished up the install late this afternoon. Everything works great. The instructions had me attach the bracket to the inside of the tailgate with self tapping screws. I opted not to weld it since if the handle needs adjusted, or if the rods become disconnected, I would be screwed. I did end up drilling a small hole in each rod in order to I nstall a cotter pin. The metal clips that hold the rods often fail rendering the handle inoperable. The kit also came with a filler plate, which needed a slight less bend then what it had in order to fit perfectly. I welded it in place and applied some body filler...primer...done! I bought the setup on Ebay from Mod Shop Metalworks. I may also end up filling in the stake bed holes next .

I also installed my new headliner material (removed the loose fabric from the headliner pad and installed new tweed over the pad). I used the same tweed to cover my door panels and dash. I wanted something thatt was easy to work with and more importantly something to cover the plastic panels (I always hated the cheap plastic door panels). Next order of business is to tear out the existing carpet and replace it as well. Last order of business will be to recover the seat, finish up the bodywork and finally paint.

 

[smoothandlow84]

Did you get your tail gate relocator handle from Mar-k? I got the smooth tailgate cover from them, along with the relocator handle. I am only guessing but they make no mention about a continuous weld along thee vertical sides, I don't think tacks would look that good, and certainly don't need moisture to get in. Any ideas?
I keep forgetting to mention, your truck is coming along great. I really like the wheels. They will look great with blue paint.

I used 5/16" self tapping screws. Don't weld it....you will regret it if you ever have to get back in there. I plan on having the sprayed with line-x so moisture shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for the compliments on my truck. The wheels where a tough choice to make with all the options out there. I get a lot of compliments about them, so it must have been a good choice.

 

[mbl530]

I wouldn't weld the relocator handle either, for the same reason that you mentioned, having to get in there later on. What I was talking about was the smooth skin that goeas on the tailgate(outer) side. The top curls over the top of existing tailgate. Then the bottom gets bent over the bottom lip.The sides are longer than the original tailgate. This was where my question was about. Do you take weld this area and then grind down, or do you do a continuous bead up the side then grind and use filler. Any help is appreciated, or pictures of yours would even be better. Sounds like you have a head of steam going, great achievement. I'll get there some day, keep up the good work.

 

[smoothandlow84]

I wouldn't weld the relocator handle either, for the same reason that you mentioned, having to get in there later on. What I was talking about was the smooth skin that goeas on the tailgate(outer) side. The top curls over the top of existing tailgate. Then the bottom gets bent over the bottom lip.The sides are longer than the original tailgate. This was where my question was about. Do you take weld this area and then grind down, or do you do a continuous bead up the side then grind and use filler. Any help is appreciated, or pictures of yours would even be better. Sounds like you have a head of steam going, great achievement. I'll get there some day, keep up the good work.

I relocated the tailgate handle to the inside of the tailgate, and filled in the original tailgate handle slot using the 16 gauge filler piece of steel that came with the new bracket. As far as the smooting out of the tailgate...I opted to keep it factory and not skin over the tailgate. I am still working on pics to post up to better explain. This afternoon, I finally got around to filling in the bed slots on the top of the bed using some pre fabbed 16 gauge filler pieces. It's gonna be getting hot soon here in Phoenix and I dont want to be doing welding and body work sweating my ass off.

With the full skinned piece over the tailgate. I have seen several applied using spot welds on the sides then covered with minimal filler to conceal the welds. A nice little trick is to drill 1/4" holes through the skin close to the edges and weld through the holes which will weld the new skin to the tailgate. Some guys have also spot welded up the sides. Just make sure you have it secured enough with weld so anything you grind off will not weaken the joint to the point of breaking loose. Tapering the seams of both surfaces to be welded or tacked will help with penetration. When you grind down the welds, there will still be enough to secure the weld.