Cluster F*** Timing

[Boone83K10]

well, it still leaks oil. It is still coming from the very back of the intake. How can a 1/4 inch bead of RTV allow it to still leak??!!

It is not coming from the dizzy or the oil pressure switch tube. It's the passenger side. It may even leak worse than it did before...

 

[HotRodPC]

Did you check the underside of the intake and make sure it's not warped or broke out back there? Honestly, I'd have used the gaskets myself being that you have the hole dot alignment type block. I've NEVER had a problem with those kind. I have had problems with the lip type that just lay over the edges of the block. Did you new intake gasket kit come with both types of block end gaskets???

 

[Boone83K10]

yes there was flat ones and then ones with nipples...

The intake looked fine to me... I cleaned the bottom of it like crazy... fed up

 

[HotRodPC]

yes there was flat ones and then ones with nipples...

The intake looked fine to me... I cleaned the bottom of it like crazy... fed up

Yeah, I'd be a bit upset too after all that work. You'd think the RTV alone would do the the trick. And you've made 100% certain, it's not the Oil Pressure sender swtich? At all possible locations. Not just the threads, but the sender itself can leak at any of the seams.

If you do pull the intake back off, I'd put a straight edge on the block and the intake mating surfaces. Then I'd probably go with the nipple gakets and black RTV too. There may an imperfection somewhere you're missing. And no hairline crack in the intake either right?

 

[MrMarty51]

That's just an old Dodge being an old Dodge. The last Dodge truck I owned was an '85 Ramcharger. I modified a GM HEI dizzy to run in it.

 

[Boone83K10]

Yeah, I'd be a bit upset too after all that work. You'd think the RTV alone would do the the trick. And you've made 100% certain, it's not the Oil Pressure sender swtich? At all possible locations. Not just the threads, but the sender itself can leak at any of the seams.

If you do pull the intake back off, I'd put a straight edge on the block and the intake mating surfaces. Then I'd probably go with the nipple gakets and black RTV too. There may an imperfection somewhere you're missing. And no hairline crack in the intake either right?

I did not see any cracks. I even lightly sanded the surfaces of the intake with a block sander. Then I wiped it all down with mineral spirits. The worst part about it all is that you have to climb up in the truck to work on it. Contorting and sitting on fenders and radiator support... then climbing back down to get another tool...

 

[HotRodPC]

I did not see any cracks. I even lightly sanded the surfaces of the intake with a block sander. Then I wiped it all down with mineral spirits. The worst part about it all is that you have to climb up in the truck to work on it. Contorting and sitting on fenders and radiator support... then climbing back down to get another tool...

I know all to well how much a very little help can be a huge help. Just someone to hand you the tools is huge. I have people living here that are so ****** lazy and can't get off the damn Playstation to even do that for me. But yet, when they need a window regulator in their El Co or some blower motor help for a heater, I'm supposed to drop at their convenience and go help. Trust me, I know ohhh to well. I haven't had help for years and then when I thought I was going to have some help about 10 months ago when I let my bro and his gf move in.... NOO, nothing different. Can't even take the ****** trash to the curb for the trash man and will walk right by the trash dumpster when getting out of the car and not even drag the damn EMPTY trash cart on wheels back up the house. TRUST ME !!! I get it !!!

 

[Boone83K10]

I have tried to post a couple times and it never accepts. Engine would not crank this morning. It was 27 degrees. Once I got it cranked, it didn't like cranking even when warm. I advanced the timing up to 12 with a timing light. It cranks good when warm now... hope it does in the morning. I also am getting almost 15" of vacuum now...

 

[Boone83K10]

so now it cranked up just fine this morning in the ice storm. I have a question though. After I advanced the distributor to 12 degrees BTDC. the vacuum advance is very close to the intake and the tach connection is hitting the firewall.

What can I do to get it rotated back over? Can the cap lock down anywhere on the housing or does it have to be where the indention marks are for the hold downs? I want the vacuum advance to point toward passenger fender and BAT & TACH to be at the 3 o clock position...

Sorry first time timing a GM... having the distributor at the rear of the engine is stupid in my opinion...

 

[philjafo]

Pull the dist back out and move it one tooth on the gear, might even take two. You might have to use a long screwdriver to move the oil pump drive so they go back together when you drop it back in.

 

[HotRodPC]

And your dealing with an HEI. I guess you've never had to set points in a dizzy when it's at the back of the motor huh? Ohh that's real fun !!!

Yep, as Phil said. Sound like you need to to lift and restabbed the dizzy. Usually, for 1 tooth, the oil pump shaft will get picked up in the bottom of the dizzy, so you can do that maybe 2 to 3 times, each time, catching the oil pump drive. Probably 3 teeth will put you right where you want to be.

 

[Boone83K10]

Shouldn't I have to make note of what # post the rotor is pointing at, move dizzy 1-2 teeth clockwise, then put cap back on and move it so rotor points at same # post.

Essentially, won't moving the dizzy one tooth clockwise "advance the timing" beyond the post it was firing on. You then have to retard the timing back to that same post to get the same reading you had (for me 12 * BTDC) which moves the entire thing back clockwise giving you more room?

right guys?

 

[HotRodPC]

Shouldn't I have to make note of what # post the rotor is pointing at, move dizzy 1-2 teeth clockwise, then put cap back on and move it so rotor points at same # post.

Essentially, won't moving the dizzy one tooth clockwise "advance the timing" beyond the post it was firing on. You then have to retard the timing back to that same post to get the same reading you had (for me 12 * BTDC) which moves the entire thing back clockwise giving you more room?

right guys?

Done right, you're not advancing or retarding the timing, because you're going to walk the plug wires back to their respective position on the dizzy cap making it no change really. All you're doing is changing the position of the dizzy putting the Vac Advance Ball where it should be.

 

[Boone83K10]

that is what I meant. if I was to move the rotor 1 tooth clockwise and just put the cap back on without moving the dizzy, then it would be way advanced. So to offset that I would move the dizzy clockwise as well, putting it back to it's original location in reference to the rotor...


I'll get it done after work...

 

[philjafo]

Look at it like your moving the rotor, then you adjust the timing so the cap is in the correct spot. Btw its not required, as long as there is enough movement to get the timing where it needs to be and nothing is hitting it, it should be fine