Caged Nuts For Cab Mount

[Phil 83K20]

Hi guys. I'm having trouble sourcing the caged nut for the cab mount. The ones I have are so krusty that I'd rather use new ones.
I know I could make them, but it's probably more time and effort to do it and I'd rather spend that time on the truck itself.

I've checked all the usual places and I have the new cab supports, but I haven't found the caged nut.

Anybody got a quick link to a suitable part?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Hi guys. I'm having trouble sourcing the caged nut for the cab mount. The ones I have are so krusty that I'd rather use new ones.
I know I could make them, but it's probably more time and effort to do it and I'd rather spend that time on the truck itself.

I've checked all the usual places and I have the new cab supports, but I haven't found the caged nut.

Anybody got a quick link to a suitable part?

Explain

 

[Phil 83K20]

The bolts that hold the cab onto the frame go into a caged nut, which is basically a 2" steel square plate with a tapped hole in it. The nut, in the front, lives in the cab support bracket that goes between the inner rocker and the longer cab floor support.

Mine is all messed up, as one could imagine, and I'm not sure where to get replacements. The support pieces I bought didn't come with them...

 

[Termite_Delight]

I think you are going to have to make one or sandblast and chase the threads on the old one.

 

[Phil 83K20]

Attached is a photo of where one of them goes.

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[Doppleganger]

Attached is a photo of where one of them goes.

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Wow....thats bad.

I think there is a Brother's (truck parts) video with Dave Welsh(?) where he repairs one of these. He cut a flap out of the floor and welded in a new nut.

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[hip2bsquare]

I recently replaced my pass side rear bolt. I cut a hole inside the cab support to gain access. I ended up sawzall the bolt to get loose. the "cage" part was demolished, I just replaced with a grade 8 bolt and nylock nut. I still have the original "nut". I tried to re-use it, but was unsure about welding it to the cab since the bolt is much thicker than the sheet metal area? now I am just needing to make sure of the correct "tightness" (torque?) for the new poly cab bushings???

 

[Raider L]

@hip2bsquare,

I know! "One foot pound." You crank it down as tight as you can get it by hand, then you put your foot on the wrench handle and push it one more time! "One foot pound!" Ha, ha, ha! I was just kidding. That's an old Harley Davidson joke on how tight to tighten down Harley 74 head bolts. I used to have a '48 Pan Head 74, an FL engine. I did have the heads off one time but I didn't use the "one foot pound" spec. I don't remember what I torqued my cab bolts down to when I replaced mine. I think I just got them tight by hand. Who knows what it was, maybe 40 lbs. ft.?

Let me look in my factory maint. manual, maybe it says something about it. It has all kinds of torque factors, even screw inch pound spec's.

 

[Raider L]

@hip2bsquare

I looked and all it shows is where all the bolts go and all the bushings in single cab, crew cab, and Surburbans, but not one single torque spec. It just must be "tight". The book even had the tightening for "glove compartment screws" but no cab bolts.

 

[Salty Crusty]

How are you going to measure actual torque when the rubber mount is squishing? All you'll be able to measure is the resistance of the rusty nut. Torque specs are related to fastener stretch, ain't gonna happen with rubber bushings in the mix.
As tight as you can get them with a typical 1/2" ratchet, 1-foot handle with no cheater bar.

 

[scwaters]

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don’t know if this might help