cab mount bolts snapped

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Michael
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1984
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Scottsdale c10
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305
my cab mount bolts snapped on my 84 c10 that im in the process of redoing top to bottom what do i do now i notice theres like a bracket like thing can i take that and get it re tapped and threaded?i also noticed some rot am i better off cutting my floors out some just to be safe so it dont come back to bite me?im also going with the energy suspension poly mount kit it comes with new bolts and washers and the poly mounts anyone use them are they good?thank you guys
 

74 Shortbed

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Can't go wrong with Energy Suspension..
 

theblindchicken

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I'm running a set of poly bushings. Ordered mine off www.ClassicParts.com and if I remember correctly, they were made by PolyPerformance. They've held up well for the little bit over a year that I've had em in. Swapped all the bolts for grade 8's as well since mine were super corroded and bent due to an accident with the PO.
 

Honky Kong jr

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Cut holes in the floor just above the broken bolts and remove the captured nut. I sprayed the hell out of mine with PB and woerked the broken bolt out of the nut and chased the threads neversiezed the crap out of them and reinstalled and welded up the holes. X2 on the Energy bushings too.
 

smoothandlow84

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X3 on poly mounts. They will outlast the oem rubber by far. The poly will also stiffen up the ride a bit. I especially like the polyurethane replacements for the upper, lower control arms as well...no more movement or alignment problems. The rubber bushings only last a few years.
 

74 Shortbed

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Myself I would not weld up up the holes, I'd cut nice round holes then use body plugs, should never have to but you never know if for some reason you have to get at those bolts later on. Just sayin..
 
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great thank you guys energy suspension it is im doing my control arms and back leafs to and thanks for that tip!!
 

chengny

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I debated whether to post this - mainly because I don't want you to think I'm being a smart ass. So, if you know all the stuff below, I apologize:


now i notice theres like a bracket like thing can i take that and get it re tapped and threaded?

If you mean these things:

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they're called body mount brackets.

I don't mean to put words in your mouth, but it would appear - from your statement above - that you are under the impression that the mounting bolt is somehow threaded into the bracket. It doesn't thread into the bracket, it just passes through it.

The bolts are 3 1/2" long. The bolt first passes through the center bore of the lower bushing, the eye of the support bracket and the center bore of the upper bushing. Next it passes through a penetration in the lower flange of the "cab floor support channel". Finally it passes through another penetration in the bottom of the "cab floor support" - at the most inboard end.

The cab floor support runs cross-wise - under the cab floor - from the cab floor support channel (which runs longitudinally - front to back) all the way out to the inboard face of the inner rocker panel. It is basically a deep, thin channel made of sheet steel - with the open side facing up and welded to the underside of the cab floor.

Some images to help explain - courtesy of Chuck:

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Hidden inside the cab floor support void space - at the inboard end (directly above where the mount bolt, upper mount bushing and cab floor support channel are all stacked) - is a square shaped piece of steel with a threaded hole in the middle. The threaded hole is there to accept the mount bushing bolt. The sides of this square "nut" are the same length as the distance across the inside wall of the cab floor support. The nut is considered to be part of the floor support and is unserviceable. After the floor support is welded to the underside of the cab floor at the assembly plant, it is sealed within that void space forever.

Before the cab mount bolt is threaded into it, the nut is essentially free to move (i.e. it is not welded in place) within the floor support. The only thing that holds it from spinning - when the mount bolt is being threaded into it - is it's tight fit to the floor support's inner walls.

It is not accessible from anywhere - unless an access point is created. This can be done by making a hole from inside the cab - through the floor (where it is visible by looking down) or from under the cab - through the side wall of the cab floor support.

Since your factory "nuts" have the sheared off tips of the mount bolts in them, they are currently useless. So, as I'm sure you can see, one way or another they will need to be accessed - either for repair or replacement - before the new mount bolts can be installed.

One bit of good news; after you create the access hole - either through the side of the support or down through the cab floor - you will have some latitude as far as what the bolt can be screwed into. Because there will then be an opening, you won't have to try and find new square OEM style "nuts" - or extract the sheared bolts and retap the originals. You will be able to drop in - or slide in from the side - plain old, off the shelf 1/2" X 13 NC nuts with a washer under them. When you go to screw the new bolts in the access holes will allow you to hold the nuts with a socket (floor) or a wrench (side of support).

When the bolts are brought up tight, close the access holes using an appropriate method - like seal welding a doubler plate or a rubber body plug for instance. That's what Art & J-m were talking about when they offered suggestions on resealing the holes.

Some real life images:

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