Body mount nust broken loose. How to fix?

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Galane

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What's the procedure for fixing a couple of cab mounting nuts that are broke loose from the cab?

Both on the right side.

The left ones and the two on the radiator support came out with an impact gun after getting a full turn with a really long breaker bar.

This $1K truck gets more $$$ every time I touch anything on it. :whymewhyme:
 

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you have to cut a hole in the floor to access the capture nuts inside the floor support
 

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you have to cut a hole in the floor to access the capture nuts inside the floor support...and then weld them securely in place.

Too late now but, you should have drilled small holes in the floor (directly over the nuts) and soaked them with PBlaster for a week or two.


If you don't have access to a welder, there is another way (actually there are lots of other ways - this is just one).

1. Cut the bolt where shown:

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You want the part of the bolt that remains inside the floor support to be short as possible.

Use a step drill and make the biggest hole you can directly over the square nut. To locate it's position, you can:

1. Drill a series of small pilot holes and a flashlight

2. Use a tape measure from underneath and then inside the cab

3. Use the pinch weld marks (and the dwgs below) on the cab floor as a guide:

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When you have a hole in the floor, pull the nut (and the attached bolt stub) up into the floor support and shove it aside. Renew your bushings.

When the new bushing stack is in place, install the through bolt from the bottom. But this time, instead of threading it into the original square nut, just use a regular nut and the biggest washer you can fit through your hole. Drop them in from the top and onto the bolt, hold the nut with a pair of needle nose pliers and torque the bolt from underneath.

Paint the raw steel made by the step-drill and close the hole with a standard rubber plug.
 
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Galane

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The nice, heavy bench seat will have to come out to get at the rear nut. The reason I was removing these is the only way to get the upper transmission crossmember angle bracket bolts out of their holes in the top of the frame is to lift the cab.

I'm also replacing the six cab mounts because some of the originals are really bad.

Why those bolts have to come out is the crossmember had to be moved forward for the 700R4 that replaced the TH400. I got a crossmember from a truck that had either a TH350 or 700R4 but apparently the 3500 has taller frame rails and the angle brackets for a 3500 with TH400 are identical to the ones used on lighter trucks with a TH350. The 3500's TH400 crossmember has dropped ends that place the mount point about 2" higher.

The lower crossmember leaves the tops of the brackets 2" below the top of the 3500's frame, sooo add 2" heavy wall square tube for spacers and use longer grade 5 bolts.

And for more fun I'll have to 'droop' the exhaust pipe under the lower crossmember.

Would have been much farther along spending the $ for a 700R4 tail housing with the TH400 mount holes!
 

89Suburban

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Can't you just cut the bolts with a torch or cut wheel or something?
 

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You can. But what will you do next?
 

89Suburban

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I you can cut the bolts shorter maybe they will come out without having to lift the cab.
 

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The problem is that they are rusted into the capture nut inside the cab support(a square nut that is held inside by the square cab support channel) So if the bolt and nut is spun then the channel is no longer holding the nut. Even if you cut the bolt head off you still have to remove the nut some how or at the very least install a nut or bolt some how. This requires entry into the support channels through the cab floor either way
 

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I would also suggest using some rust converter and primer/paint while your in there and have access
 

89Suburban

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No I'm talking about the top cross member bolts he was trying to get out.
 

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Oh lol
 

Galane

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No I'm talking about the top cross member bolts he was trying to get out.

Yup, those. And the collapsed cab mounts that have the floor pans almost touching the top of the frame.
 

89Suburban

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Galane

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And they are out. WTH didn't GM simply use rectangles of metal longer than the support channels are wide?

Then all the retainer would be doing is holding the nuts in place instead of having to hold them against torque.
 

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You got the cab bolts out? How did that go?
 

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