Body Lift Question...

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LS73

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I was looking for some input with what I'm getting into (not the "don't do it" responses please I know they are not the most popular option lol) on putting a small 2 inch body lift on my truck to open up the wheel wells a bit. I am aware I may need to lengthen the shift linkage (auto), bumper relocations and als open up the steering column to telescope and the fan shroud I was planning to make a new bracket to drop it. Does anyone know if that is a guarantee on those things on a '73? Performance Accessories discontinued their #522 2" inch kit so I am kind of in the dark piecing this together. I did purchase all the longer bolts as well as body spacers so far. The other BL lifts I have seen are 3+ inches which I would never go over 2 inches on a BL so that rules those kits out. I like the ride of my truck and have already lifted 4 inches but with these 35's there isn't as much clearance as I thought it would give me and I am not buying 33s when I have brand new tires and regeared.

Hope I explained this well. Anyway if you have some knowledge to send my way it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
 

Grit dog

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Well being a 2wd already lifted I understand why you’re doing it. I think you answered all your questions though. Just do it.
 

nvrenuf

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I put a 2” body lift on my old K10, you touched on all the hot spots except one - gas filler neck(s).

I needed a little more slack for the filler neck hoses but I just unscrewed the metal necks and let them drop a bit, they stayed in the pockets so no big deal. I intended to get longer hoses but never did since they worked fine.

On the steering column, I heated and melted out the 2 plastic plugs at the overlap in the steering shaft. There was plenty of overlap for the body lift and still have good engagement. This would be a great time to explore the XJ steering shaft mod.
 

Jawzjeep

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They have their place. Do it if you want. I like to put a 1-in body lift on my 4x4s just to make it easier to access areas around the transmission/transfer case and bell housing and whatnot, though I don't have one on my current Suburban. I've never used one for tire clearance. They are helpful for when you rotate your transfer case for a flat belly though.

Not telling you don't, but here's some other options you probably wouldn't be interested in.

Depending on where your tires are hitting you might be able to just slide the front axle forward an inch and not have a problem. You don't have to use a zero rate you could just redrill your perches and plates. Snip a little of the front fangs and shorten that drag link if you have push-pull steering.

Matter of fact a zero rate front and rear could give you that little more you want. But you need to make sure that your shocks and u bolts have room for them or you'll be buying them over again.

If you're not interested in putting little heep parts in your Chevy truck, look at Speedway who has a plethora of real rebuildable needle bearing U-joints and shafts that you could build your own steering shaft for way cheaper than borgson. Maybe not cheaper than a junkyard heep shaft with worn out joints though to be fair.
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Jawzjeep

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@Jawzjeep based on post #2 this truck is 2wd.
Saw that but saw no other reference of it and when somebody's talking about lifts and gear swaps I kind of didn't think we were talking two-wheel drive. If so my bad.

OP- can we see this two-wheel drive with a 4-in lift please?

I can't remember exactly but I think four-wheel drive front fenders provide a little more space than two wheel drive front fenders, that might help. Possibly inner fenders too?

Also I thought the shaft change was for four-wheel drives not two wheel drives. I'm clearly not a two-wheel drive guy sorry
 

LS73

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Well being a 2wd already lifted I understand why you’re doing it. I think you answered all your questions though. Just do it.
Cool thanks. Will come back with the results... or more questions lol
 

LS73

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I put a 2” body lift on my old K10, you touched on all the hot spots except one - gas filler neck(s).

I needed a little more slack for the filler neck hoses but I just unscrewed the metal necks and let them drop a bit, they stayed in the pockets so no big deal. I intended to get longer hoses but never did since they worked fine.

On the steering column, I heated and melted out the 2 plastic plugs at the overlap in the steering shaft. There was plenty of overlap for the body lift and still have good engagement. This would be a great time to explore the XJ steering shaft mod.
Awesome info this is what I was looking for thanks. I need to look into the jeep mod as I am not familiar.
 

LS73

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Saw that but saw no other reference of it and when somebody's talking about lifts and gear swaps I kind of didn't think we were talking two-wheel drive. If so my bad.

OP- can we see this two-wheel drive with a 4-in lift please?

I can't remember exactly but I think four-wheel drive front fenders provide a little more space than two wheel drive front fenders, that might help. Possibly inner fenders too?

Also I thought the shaft change was for four-wheel drives not two wheel drives. I'm clearly not a two-wheel drive guy sorry
No problem and thanks for the time on your previous post. I really wish I would have bought a K10 4 years ago cause these prices are nuts. My buddy has a fab shop we do most the work in and he is already bugging me about the swap to 4x4 but I kind of like the fact I'm one of the only guys with a 2wd that's not dropped. The PO cut the fenders which the new ones are sitting on my garage floor currently. Once they go on there will be no clearing 35's without a BL. Do the K10's Stocke sit higher already than the C10's or are they the same ride height? I see a lot of k10's running 35's with no rubbing.
 

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Grit dog

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Of course K10s sit higher than a C10.
35s are realistically about 5” min required in front on a K truck.
 

LS73

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Of course K10s sit higher than a C10.
35s are realistically about 5” min required in front on a K truck.
Reason I was asking is there is a lot of conflicting info regarding it on the web. For example "While the ride height difference between a C10 and a K10 is not very noticeable in stock form, it is much more common to see a lifted K10 than a lifted C10." ( https://www.cjponyparts.com/resourc...KBcQ2hjeMPqY0VOeBm1hMWxB7kvky0KTmWwkFf0xwXCfZ ) These trucks are all modified to some degree by this point so I was curious to know the factory height of each. Thanks for the info on the required height though 35's.
 

Jawzjeep

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No problem and thanks for the time on your previous post. I really wish I would have bought a K10 4 years ago cause these prices are nuts. My buddy has a fab shop we do most the work in and he is already bugging me about the swap to 4x4 but I kind of like the fact I'm one of the only guys with a 2wd that's not dropped. The PO cut the fenders which the new ones are sitting on my garage floor currently. Once they go on there will be no clearing 35's without a BL. Do the K10's Stocke sit higher already than the C10's or are they the same ride height? I see a lot of k10's running 35's with no rubbing.
That's pretty cool. Makes me think go fast desert truck .

After realizing you're talking about two wheel drive stuff I remember somebody talking about using 88 to 98 lift spindles at one point.

I prefer 4x4 through and through but have seen many people leaving trails with broken front ends and they just use a little more momentum. But that's on trails specifically.

Instead of letting your buddy talk you into doing a 4x4 conversion later on, just take your time and keep your eyes open for one that's already four-wheel drive that you can get a good deal on if indeed you want that. Then you'd have two. Only thing better is three.
 

Grit dog

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Reason I was asking is there is a lot of conflicting info regarding it on the web. For example "While the ride height difference between a C10 and a K10 is not very noticeable in stock form, it is much more common to see a lifted K10 than a lifted C10." ( https://www.cjponyparts.com/resourc...KBcQ2hjeMPqY0VOeBm1hMWxB7kvky0KTmWwkFf0xwXCfZ ) These trucks are all modified to some degree by this point so I was curious to know the factory height of each. Thanks for the info on the required height though 35's.
Id suggest looking at the internet or real trucks that aren’t lifted/lowered. Better than us describing something that is hard for you to visualize.
 

Juggernaut

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Don't forget to lengthen your ground straps from the frame to the body. They can pull apart and cause all kinds of problems with your lights and gauges. Also, body lifts put a lot of stress on your steering rod rag joint because of the higher angle. I used to keep a spare on my truck for when it ripped out.
 

Dixie Pride

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You got most of it figured out.Put a 3 "on my 1985 K20 350 motor manual tranny i bought new and wish i had not.Just the 3" offset of the radiator causes it to overheat when ideling even when you modify the shroud larger. You cannot lower the radiator on my model year. today i am considering having putting in a racing radiator and booster fan to try to get more air flow.I run 44" swampers with a 5" suspension,3" body lift and cut out fender flares.I changed the radiator to a new OEM and years double flushed the radiator and it made no difference.
 

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