Ball Joints: self vs shop

[MadOgre]

I had this little Citation when I was a kid. Took it to a shop to have the passenger front half shaft replaced. I knew the mechanic so it seemed like a good place to go.

Get my car back and its making the same clunking. I stop and look, they changed the drivers side shaft. WE had discussed this in great length there was no confusing the problem with the passenger side vs drivers side.

So I figure what the hell its probably good to just replace them both at the same time. So I take it back and pay to have the other side done. I get it look underneath and yep both sides done. Goodo! 1 1/2 KM down the road im leaving smoke like a stunt plane! Stop and look under neath and the collar that keeps the sleeve and seal inside the transmission is just flopped off and sitting on the halfshft.

So I take it back and there is no way in hell that they will assume responsibility for it. Guy says it was bolted up tight when I drove away. So now im gonna start knocking some teeth out. So the guy says well lets take a look t it. Turns out the seal is destroyed and a replacement one can not be had any where. Discontinued!

I calmed down enough to refrain my self but I never got a penny from those losers on top of paying for 2 new half shafts installed and the car went to the wreckers.

 

[flyboy1100]

Maybe but I have never seen the spindle come loose. I have seen knuckle joints destroyed and the spindle stayed put.

I could see like 10-15% but not 30-40 especially when you consider that 30-40% of $200 is 1/3 less then 30-40% of $300. I just get pissed off at businesses trying to hide that they are simply taking your money like they think they are tricking you! Its supposed to be 10% to cover cost of paper work associated labor.

I guess the thing is that I think$500 is a low ball quote to get you in the door and then your gonna end up paying $1000 or more by the time its all said and done.

I have yet to find a shop that's not run by con artists!

There is a local place here called the Gear Center and so far they are the only guys that seem half way honest.

Place is owned by neighbor, so I think they are OK and not trying to scam me

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[flyboy1100]

Here is a video that shows what I'm seeing, just not quite as extreme
How to Fix 4x4 Truck Front Hub 1984 Chevy: http://youtu.be/5aJ-loOzxss

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[350runner]

The harbor freight press isn't worth the trip there even if they gave it to you. The parts store presses are usually pretty heavy duty. If you want to buy one just pay the deposit and keep it.

I used it for many different projects other than my bj and bushings. It worked great for me sorry you had a bad experience :-(

Sent from the dust in front of you!

 

[MadOgre]

Here is a video that shows what I'm seeing, just not quite as extreme
How to Fix 4x4 Truck Front Hub 1984 Chevy: http://youtu.be/5aJ-loOzxss

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Don't do it like that guy did! Id be surprised if his wheel did not fall off on the way to the mud pit LMAO holy cow what a dumb ass!

You need that spanner socket if you don't have it cause you have to torque the inner nut to 50 ft lbs and then 35 and then 25. The outer nut gets torqued to 160-205 ft lbs. Definitely not even gonna get close to those numbers with a screw driver not to mention that a screw driver is gonna make a mess out of those nuts.

And always apply clean wheel bearing grease to the locking hub other wise the plastic will wear and your hub will fail. Never put PB blaster or Wd 40 cause that stuff will/can take out your wheel bearings and does not provide long lasting lubrication.

If your truck is similar in situation to his I would recommend repacking your wheel bearings so you can clean it all up and replace them if necessary and re torque to proper specs. All you would need is inner seals( $5) unless you need bearings.

The guy in the video im positive has trashed wheel bearings.

 

[flyboy1100]

Video was just for reference of the movement im seeing

I was going to look for the socket today. Dana44 i think is the socket i need (i have the gm 10bolt)

Was going to take apart hubs and inspect bearings, prob not a bad idea no matter what with this truck as the last 2 POs apparently just drove it and ignored all maintenance

Kinda hoping it is just hub related at this point in addition to my steering. Still haven't found what i need for that either



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[MadOgre]

Ya I know that wasn't you lol That guy did pretty much ever thing wrong lol Just wanted to clarify that so nobody would think that's how its done.

The knuckle ball joints do last an awful long time if you don't ram things with your tires.

the writing has rubbed off my socket but I got it at the local parts store.

 

[flyboy1100]

this is the socket i need, right?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W1269.oap?ck=Search_w-1269_-1_-1&keyword=w-1269

 

[MadOgre]

this is the socket i need, right?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFM0/W1269.oap?ck=Search_w-1269_-1_-1&keyword=w-1269

Yep looks like the one

 

[flyboy1100]

Thanks

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[flyboy1100]

Ordered ball joints, dont think it is the hub as once the wheel was off i could see the play in the ball joints.




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[flyboy1100]

got new ball joints in. the grease zerk included for the upper comes out the bottom and is angled, but also doesn't clear the axle yokes, so does that mean i need to just plug it and it won't be greasable?

 

[MadOgre]

No. Put a regular nipple in and get a side grease fitting for your gun.

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[flyboy1100]

will it still clear with the zerk on my ujoints? it is the small female style one.

or the other option which would be a pain would be to plug it, then remove it and install the angled zerk for greasing and replug it?

 

[MadOgre]

If your upper ball joint is fully seated a straight small male grease nipple will clear your u joint, but is only greasable with the tires full left or right and using the gun fitting in the pic.