AC bracket manifold bolt

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johns87

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I have an 1987 350, and was removing the headers that where on there. The AC bracket bolt broke off in the block and I'm trying to find a replacement stud. I know its a 3/8 x 16 and looks like overall length was 3.5 inches, but I cannot find one anywhere. Has anyone else been able to source one, or have any recommendations?
 

Preston

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We have a Bolt company here called Trios I think there is also fastenal not sure of my spelling of either but you May do a search on the www and find them. Also the lumber stores have some bolts not sure if they have the right one and tractor supply. Good luck hope it’s not too hard to get the broken one out.
 

donnieray

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I had to use a piece of grade eight all-thread and a jamb nut in the middle when that happened once. I was told you could get them through a dealer but haven't confirmed it.
 

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Its a stud? Would a piece that length of threaded rod work? Think I have some.

Also think I have a grade 8 bolt that length too.
 

bucket

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You mean the bolt that has a 1" or so stud on the head of it? That goes in one of the forward manifold bolt holes?

I have a few of those, but unfortunately I'm not home for at least a few more days. But I might be able to get my wife to find one in the garage. Maybe, lol.
 

johns87

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That is exactly the bolt/stud. I finally had to give up and trailer it to the exhaust shop that was going to work on the exhaust. I tried an extractor, but after that broke off in there, going to need to try something different. The exhaust shop said they could weld a nut on it and be done... so we shall see. He also said he had some threaded rod that he'd be able to use.

Nothing like trying to do it to save $200 in labor and then having to spend 200$ to fix it...damn truck, it hates me I swear.
 

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One thing I always have in my box is a 1/4" and a 3/8" carbide ball endmill (4 fluted). Put it in a drill and slowly turn whatever is in there to dust. I watched a guy fight with a broken 8mm bolt in a block for 2 hours as he didn't want to damage the threads - I used a 1/4" end mill and had it gutted in 2 min. Have to almost watch yourself...it goes through cast and most anything else like butter. Grade 8's are a PITA but will still drill out.

My 2c...and 20yrs of tool and die. lol
 

donnieray

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One thing I always have in my box is a 1/4" and a 3/8" carbide ball endmill (4 fluted). Put it in a drill and slowly turn whatever is in there to dust. I watched a guy fight with a broken 8mm bolt in a block for 2 hours as he didn't want to damage the threads - I used a 1/4" end mill and had it gutted in 2 min. Have to almost watch yourself...it goes through cast and most anything else like butter. Grade 8's are a PITA but will still drill out.

My 2c...and 20yrs of tool and die. lol
Damn good advice, I'm in industrial maintenance and deal with broken bolts way to much. Going to find those end mill bits right now.
 

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The Niagra Cutters are a great deal - very reasonable and good quality ($15-ish each) - I see them on feebay alot for decent prices. You can buy the 'bigger brands' like Kennemetals, etc for 2-3x more but IMO not worth it. Pretty sure the NC's are made in USA too (at least the last batch I bought were). I get them 2-3 of each size at a time as availability can be sporadic - machine shops buy 100's at a time. Big thing is to make sure they are 4 fluted. Two fluted will catch and chip, especially in a hole with jagged pieces of broken drill in it - then you have particles of carbide to add to your broken bolt....next up from there is a larger hole and helicoil only because they dont sell thermonuclear devices that small :Sumo: . A four flute is like a clenched fist....will burrow through with little chance of chipping. Dont push too hard either - can go too deep too fast (no joke).

I've also used them as starters for holes in thick steel too. They sell carbide drills but I still like these better for the chipping reason.
 
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donnieray

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The Niagra Cutters are a great deal - very reasonable and good quality ($15-ish each) - I see them on feebay alot for decent prices. You can buy the 'bigger brands' like Kennemetals, etc for 2-3x more but IMO not worth it. Pretty sure the NC's are made in USA too (at least the last batch I bought were). I get them 2-3 of each size at a time as availability can be sporadic - machine shops buy 100's at a time. Big thing is to make sure they are 4 fluted. Two fluted will catch and chip, especially in a hole with jagged pieces of broken drill in it - then you have particles of carbide to add to your broken bolt....next up from there is a larger hole and helicoil only because they dont sell thermonuclear devices that small :Sumo: . A four flute is like a clenched fist....will burrow through with little chance of chipping. Dont push too hard either - can go too deep too fast (no joke).

I've also used them as starters for holes in thick steel too. They sell carbide drills but I still like these better for the chipping reason.
I'll look for the NC brand. We have some ball end mill bits for our milling deck but I'll be buying some for personal use. I just never heard of using them in a hand drill. BAMM!
 

4WDKC

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perfect time to swap in a serpentine belt system.
 

WFO

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perfect time to swap in a serpentine belt system.
I never cared for all that bulky lookin cast aluminum on a serpentine setup.
Plus, I like having that second belt turning the water pump if you need to limp on in to the next town after throwing an alternator belt.
 

4WDKC

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I never cared for all that bulky lookin cast aluminum on a serpentine setup.
Plus, I like having that second belt turning the water pump if you need to limp on in to the next town after throwing an alternator belt.

Ive never seen an serp belt thrown, Ive seen idler pulleys lock up, or an alternator explode the internals ( it rattled and pieces fell out when you shook it). hell I just sold under drive pulleys to a guy that had an air bag blow causing the truck to slam down on the big wheels sending parts into the serp belt that caused 2 of the 6 ribs on the belt to shred off but he still was able to drive it an hour to my house to buy the pulleys and belt.

But if you dont like the looks its understand able.
 

Rusty Nail

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Nothing like trying to do it to save $200 in labor and then having to spend 200$ to fix it...damn truck, it hates me I swear.

In many cases the trucks have spent a LONG TIME getting treated like sh- and I think by the time they make it HERE, they are straight-up JADED.

It's a labor of love to set it all straight! At least that's what I have told myself previously..:shrug:but now waiting on the bill from my trans installer.
 
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