A.I.R. pump problems

[aGood'olBoy]

I have no air pump or any emissions equipment as far as that's concerned on my truck. I purchased the air pump off of a k5 blazer that was an 84 With a 305. My k10 has a 350 but I believe its an non original, older block because the dip stick Is on the drivers side. I'm confused on if it will even bolt up to my block. The Haynes manual I have is hardly helpful. So will it bolt up at all? This emissions **** is annoying as all get out. If it won't bolt up, should I just make it look like it works for emissions? Any input is appreciated. Please help soon, it's killing me to see my truck parked in the garage.

 

[HotRodPC]

There's plenty of help here. So what exactly are you trying to accomplish??? I'll take a guess. All the emissions has been pulled off the truck, and you have to have it re installed to pass state inspection??? I hear PA is about as big of jackasses as Cali. 89Suburban is in PA and may have some tips for you.

To start with, you'll need the exhaust manifolds with the Pipe provisions on each side. A diverter valve that comes off the back of the AIR pump, then of course the AIR Pump and belt. You'll also need to make sure you have the right pulley arrangement for the AIR Pump. What else do you need to have to pass? EGR I'd imagine and 85 Half Tons also had Cats.

 

[HotRodPC]

Ohhh, and don't dick around with a used pump unless you know how to tear them apart. It's very very common, when those pumps are allowed to sit, they will seize and not spin.

 

[chengny]

The piping and control tubing associated with an AIR (air injection reactor) system is fairly involved.

Is it a requirement to pass state inspection that all the OEM emissions equipment be installed?

What is the emissions code associated with your truck? It is on the sticker located on the RH side of the radiator support. It will be a three digit alpha code (YJM for example).

I'm guessing its a UHX. Like this:

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Provide that code and an image of the pump you purchased - and someone will help you decide which way to go.

 

[89Suburban]

For future inspections, I can tell you how to disengage the mile counter but still have a working speedometer. That will keep you under the 5000 mile a year limit to be exempt from emissions here. As far as the task at hand, who is telling you you have to install that? Is it supposed to be there from factory? Cane we get a pic if the vacuum diagram under the hood and a couple pics of the engine?

 

[HotRodPC]

The piping and control tubing associated with an AIR (air injection reactor) system is fairly involved.

Is it a requirement to pass state inspection that all the OEM emissions equipment be installed?

What is the emissions code associated with your truck? It is on the sticker located on the RH side of the radiator support. It will be a three digit alpha code (YJM for example).

I'm guessing its a UHX. Like this:

You must be registered for see images attach

Provide that code and an image of the pump you purchased - and someone will help you decide which way to go.

I have a feeling he can cheat. It's prolly just a visual inspection just to see that it's there, so if he's got it intalled and not hooked up right and functional prolly don't have a bit of ****. BUT, I'd say if you're going thru all the motions, just do it right as you can. Really, the AIR system doesn't rob all that hp that people talk about. Maybe 2-3 hp tops. The biggest issue about it, is the fact it's in the way when you go to work on it and you won't get around that unless like 89S says, you get exempted.

 

[aGood'olBoy]

I have the air pump and bracketry for that. That's it. Everything had to be in place for emissions but doesn't actually have to work. Which I think is stupid as hell if your going to make people have the ****, might as well make sure it works. I know I need the diverter valve and the egr. The rest I don't believe should be difficult to get a hold of or make. Arty this point I'm confused if the sure pump even has a place to mount on the block.
I'll try to remember to take a picture tomorrow after school.
I have cats already on the truck. I was wondering if I should go for it and buy headers already and just tap those

 

[aGood'olBoy]

For the plumbing. Not sure.
I do know if I B.S. the emissions I'm just going to take it of till next inspection. If not it will be permanent. Don't know I'd I'm forgetting anything but I'm pretty tired. Night y'all wherever your from

 

[HotRodPC]

I have the air pump and bracketry for that. That's it. Everything had to be in place for emissions but doesn't actually have to work. Which I think is stupid as hell if your going to make people have the ****, might as well make sure it works. I know I need the diverter valve and the egr. The rest I don't believe should be difficult to get a hold of or make. Arty this point I'm confused if the sure pump even has a place to mount on the block.
I'll try to remember to take a picture tomorrow after school.
I have cats already on the truck. I was wondering if I should go for it and buy headers already and just tap those

Hell,... If all they do is a visual inspection, don't drill holes in the headers. Just spot weld nuts on the header tubes to bolt the AIR pipes to and call it good. If it's there, then it's there. Doesn't matter if it functions if it's just a visual inspection.

Kinda like Visual Cat inspection. You know how many people have hollowed out Cats???

 

[chengny]

Mount to water pump:

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A look at the hoses associated with a dual pump setup (just the ones on the pumps):

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A man installing dual AIR pumps:

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[aGood'olBoy]

Its a little faded but the emissions code is UHJ

 

[HotRodPC]

Yep, looks like you have the bracketry and diverter valve already. Is that dirverter valve on bolted to the back of the pump, or does it use the divorced diverter valve?

 

[aGood'olBoy]

I believe it uses a divorced style diverter valve, because it is not attached to the air pump.

 

[HotRodPC]

Come to think about it, I think all GM had divorced. Some manufactures had the valve bolted right on the back of the pump and IIRC, usually were foreign cars.

 

[aGood'olBoy]

Silly ricers