350 build opinions

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RustyBuckets

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New to the forum and would appreciate some opinions and expertise. I have a 1985 k10 chevy with a 350 with 3970010 on the block so i think its from '79. Whoever was before me did a couple upgrades, the intake is an edelbrock performer, and the carb is an edelbrock 8867 which i believe is 750 cfm. The exhaust is a true dual flowmaster but the headers look original. I beleive the ratio is 3.42 and This is going to be a weekend driver/ take fishin' truck. I wont be racing it but would love to shovel on some low end torque. I appreciate any help.
 

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3970010 is said to be a high nickel block i.e stronger. Whether or not this is true is left to debate. That casting number was made from 1968 through 1979. It could be a 2 bolt or 4 bolt. It could (but highly doubt) be a 1968 327 block.

the 8867 is not the part number for your Edelbrock. That is the airhorn number. You need to look for a different set of numbers. 1406 would be a 600 cfm, 1407 would be 750 cfm.

You could get some soft steel wool, some degreaser and spray all over the passenger side axle tube in the rear. There will be some numbers stamped in it, the first two (or three) are the axle ratio. Write them down and go here --> http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4185

You didn't mention what trans you have but I will assume a 700r4. 3.42 isn't bad for a roll around town truck.
 

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A 355 is a great all around engine. Its a 30over bore and uses your factory rods and crank.
 

RustyBuckets

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I appreciate the replies, i think glanced at a 1407 on the carb but i will double check this afternoon along with the ration on the rear end. Is there a number on the auto trans that would point me to which it is. I was hoping to not have to pull the engine with this build because i dont have the tools for that yet, would i need to for a 355 build.
 

HotRodPC

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Is the motor in good shape and runs good now? What's the budget like to increase the torque and how much increase are you looking for? Since you've already gotten the E Performer, Carb and Headers, the "Cheap Out" option is a cam swap and replace the timing chain set while you're there. Go on the high side of an RV cam, maybe even into something like a 268-270 duration cam with about .450-.465 lift. As long as your valve springs aren't tired, your valvetrain should hold up to that spec fine. If in doubt, step down just a little to be on the safe side. That spec shouldn't be very lopey at all. You might notice a little lope if you have the idle turned down but not much.

Hopefully your carb is a 600cfn and not the 750. You can still work with the 750, but it's really overkill for a small block.

Another Option, cam swap and swap to Vortec Heads which will require a new intake manifold too.
 

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Any engine rebuild you have to pull the engine.

And HR, 750 is bare minimal for an alky sbc.( i know hes not planning on running alky tho.)
But again, im a holley lover. And an edie prolly couldnt run alky :D .
 
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RustyBuckets

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Shopping for an engine hoist, The engine lopes a bit right now, so i wonder what cam is in there, i guess i should swap it out just so i know what ive got and can match it with my build, i wouldnt want to spend much over 1500. Ofcourse the cheaper is better as long as its done right and wont risk engine damage because of corner cutting. Im no expert but everybody on the internet is, and they all say 750 for a carb on this would be overkill especially if the exhaust is as restricted these stock headers must be. Any idea what i should do with those, Ive found a couple folks with hookers on CL
thanks again, and ill post those carb specs soon
 

BigAl285

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good luck and have fun. I would look into your cam and heads. See if it smokes when you start it up or smokes while your driving. Heads can be expensive to rebuild too. Make sure what carb you have and if it will work on your intake and what you want to do with it. Once you start building the list keeps getting added too
 

HotRodPC

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Any engine rebuild you have to pull the engine.

And HR, 750 is bare minimal for an alky sbc.( i know hes not planning on running alky tho.)
But again, im a holley lover. And an edie prolly couldnt run alky :D .

Running Gas, fryer oi, alcohol, methanol, ehtanol or gerital won't matter what CFM carb is being run. It'll have to be quite a bit of a small block to justify a 750cfm. It can be done, but this is sounding more like a just above OE or RV motor. An RV SBC, 600cfm is plenty. You can always de-jet down, but you're still not going to cram 750 cfm thru that motor.
 

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Running Gas, fryer oi, alcohol, methanol, ehtanol or gerital won't matter what CFM carb is being run. It'll have to be quite a bit of a small block to justify a 750cfm. It can be done, but this is sounding more like a just above OE or RV motor. An RV SBC, 600cfm is plenty. You can always de-jet down, but you're still not going to cram 750 cfm thru that motor.

We have a small block that we are probly gonna have to run in the 800s.
 

HotRodPC

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We have a small block that we are probly gonna have to run in the 800s.

You can run a 1050 Dominator on it if you want to. Doesn't mean it's the right Carb or it's not to big. But for anything streetable in a SBC, 600cfm is satisfactory. I have a bud that runs a 1250 Ultra Dominator on a Ford 351 stroked to to a 379. But he runs 10.20's and it's a trailered track only car.
 

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You can run a 1050 Dominator on it if you want to. Doesn't mean it's the right Carb or it's not to big. But for anything streetable in a SBC, 600cfm is satisfactory. I have a bud that runs a 1250 Ultra Dominator on a Ford 351 stroked to to a 379. But he runs 10.20's and it's a trailered track only car.

This is a 350 bored to a 355 running between 13:1-14:1. And it runs high 9's. And used to be a DD.
Was setup to run 130octane thrue a 750(double pump, mech. secondary, no choke). Then they stopped getting the fuel in at the gas station.
 

HotRodPC

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This is a 350 bored to a 355 running between 13:1-14:1. And it runs high 9's. And used to be a DD.
Was setup to run 130octane thrue a 750(double pump, mech. secondary, no choke). Then they stopped getting the fuel in at the gas station.

I was actually talking about a 1/4 mile on the Ferd not 1/8 mile. Many race motors do start out as daily drivers. But, there were some 355's built brand new for strictly for racing, but those were roundy round race motors, not drag motors.
 

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I was actually talking about a 1/4 mile on the Ferd not 1/8 mile. Many race motors do start out as daily drivers. But, there were some 355's built brand new for strictly for racing, but those were roundy round race motors, not drag motors.

This is a 1/4 mile Chevy.

And it was daily-drove untill we couldnt get fuel for it any more.

Its my dads HS car.
 

RustyBuckets

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Turns out it was the 1406 so no worries there. But i failed emissions because my fuel canister is not hooked up so i need to figure that out and get her licensed before anything else
 

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