2002 - 4.8L to 5.3L or should I go to a 5.7L?

[dougbert]

Back on this project after doing other things

Time to dis-assemble the test stand and begin taking the 4.8 apart. We have a 5.3 to re-assemble and put on the test stand, so spent about 3 hours taking the test stand and putting it into tubs. Rather everything for the test stand went into just one tub, except for the radiator and the intake.

Pic #1 is about half of the test stand in one tub, the brown box is the injector cleaner. I was able to put the front support stands in that tub as well. Exceeded my expectation.
Pic #2 is the test stand's muffler and down pipes hanging on the wall.
Pic #3 is the 4.8 with most of the test stand removed, save for the radiator and supports
Pic #4 is the intake with ECU, harness and control panel. Having a hard time finding a tub deep enough to cover the control panel, might have to unbolt it and lay it down
Pic #5 is the tub for the 4.8 accessories that will be going with the engine, water pump fits fine in there too. Also starter, PS Pump, accessory bracket, spark plugs, bolts, coils.

I didn't take a pic of the engine with all the test stand removed tonight, will do that tomorrow. But it looks just like another 4.8/5.3 engine

Took about 2 hours to take the test stand apart and another hour on accessories and packaging of the parts. Far faster than it took to build it. I hope now it won't take too long to put another engine on it. will time that as well.
BTW, I used Mobile 1 oil in this engine and ran for about 50 minutes total run time. The oil came out very black - I guess it cleans things inside the engine very well. So recycled the oil and drained the Wix filter and tossed that. Did reclaim all the anti-freeze, about 2 gallons, at $16 a gallon. Will reuse that. Didn't lose too much, wish there was a better way to capture draining the radiator, the cylinder drain plugs - that was a mess, I think turning the engine a bit side ways will help - and then the radiator and hoses. All has small amounts of coolant in hidden spaces.

Now it is time to remove rockers, push rods, and heads. This engine is going all the way down to a bare block to be cleaned, spec'd and bored. Will pull the pistons, rods and crank. Also need to pull all the sensors.

dougbert

 

[dougbert]

Further teardown today

Only interesting item was one piston had a bunch of dimples, BB size, in the piston and head chamber. Nothing was in the piston, so it seems to have left on its own fairly quickly.

In the valve area, things looked very clean.

Tomorrow will pull pistons and rods.

Will have new lifters, push rods, pistons.

dougbert

 

[dougbert]

Down to the crank left.

Pistons and con-rods pulled, bearings show no sign of wear. Almost a shame to do this to this 4.8.................naw, I am going to do it.

monday will pull the crank out.

Now to sell those.


Finally came to a conclusion to what pistons I am going to put back in there. I have the 5.3 crank and Gen IV 5.3 con-rods. I did get a set of STD 5.3 pistons (OEM Gen IV/V), but came across a sale on Sealed Power 5.3 pistons at .040 oversize (1.00 MM) and snagged them up.

Should come in at 332 cubic inches or a 5.4L engine. 97mm bore size, up from 96mm for the STD 5.3 and down from the 99mm of the 5.7 size.

Seems Sealed power pistons were all in the $42-$60 range per piston, but jegs had this sale on the .040 over for $25 and change per piston. Could not pass that up

Maybe few people bore their blocks to that size, IDK, but I was boring the cylinders anyway, and I was having a hard time finding 5.7 pistons with floating wrist pins that weren't $100 or so each. So no brainer here, for me anyway.

Now begins the re-build phase on this engine.

dougbert

 

[Standaloneman]

Harness build

I build harnesses if anyone is interested

 

[dougbert]

I build harnesses if anyone is interested

thats great, nice to have resources and options to have that done

 

[dougbert]

My new pistons showed up today after being back ordered via Jegs

Seal-Pro H1132CPA 1.00mm over (.040) great deal at $25.41 each on sale

try to get pictures off my phone to post, but failing

 

[dougbert]

Finally got my phone to mount under Windose

there is a couple of pics of the oversized 5.3L pistons from Sealed-Power

BTW, sold the 4.8L pistons

 

[dougbert]

Oddball thing happened to my wife's 95 pathfinder. I was at the storage unit putting some stuff away. Christmas eve, starting to snow for the big storm coming in. Engine was idling, heater fan was blowing nice warm air and then: The engine just stopped, fan stopped and it started to snow harder.

I was stuck, no click, no heat, no engine movement at all. Headlights worked, etc. Called Jake and he came over and towed me to his shop. Got to work on it yesterday and today thought it was a bad Ignition Relay according to the wire diagram, but alas, it was not. Next was to replace ignition switch as it was upstream from the 4 fused circuits in the fuse box: Meters, ECU, Signals and fuel pump - that had NO power

Took column's cover off and there staring at me was this single wire just sticking up in the air. WTF? I pushed the wire back to its contact then turned the key and the engine started, fan blew, etc. Let go of the wire and engine cut off.

Soldered it back into place. Some 21 year old cold-solder joint I guess. Top right one, that looks a mess compared to the OEM solder jobs

Pic of it soldered back into place below.

One of those cases that stumped me. So glad it was not an open circuit deep in the arteries of the car, but visible once I got the shroud off

Looking from driver's door to the left side of the switch

 

[dougbert]

4.8L crank removed, trying to sell

 

[Camar068]

Thought you'd like to know. There was a TSB on the knock sensors. Apperantly water gets down in the holes. This rusts them out causing them to fail. When doing a swap I'd replace them if their rusty. Also put rtv on the cap sealing it and/or put an RTV dam to divert the water around the sensor caps.

Was said somewhere that it seems to happen a lot to people that hose off the engine bay.

Couple pics:

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[dougbert]

Well I sold the caprice to get the money out of it. Sold to young friend of mine who fell in love with it.

Still will work on engine as cash flow occurs. This illness I went through wiped out a lot of savings, etc

dougbert

 

[dougbert]

this engine is awaiting $1000 cash in order to send it to the machine shop. $500 for the machine work including boring to 94mm (93+1mm, or .040 over) and $500 for the gasket kit. I have the rods and pistons and crankshaft. Also need rings.

With the cashflow crunch, it might take some time to save up enough, but this seems like a nice winter (in the shop) project anyway.


BUT this engine is being designed (as best as I can with my limited knowledge) for High RPM horsepower.

Current plan:

Have:
Gen IV rods, stronger than Gen III rods
Sealed Pro flat top pistons, 94 mm bore, 1mm (.040) larger than stock
Block and components.
LS6 intake and fuel rail
33 lb/hr injectors

Will have:
2.00" intake valves
DIY runner port
Titanium retainers
Comp Cams beehive springs, .625 lift
ARP Main studs
ARP Rod bolts
LS7 Lifters
Comp Cam pushrods
Comp Cam trunion bearing upgrade
LS2 timing chain and set


dougbert