1978 k30 hydroboost

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derekhisle

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I have a 1978 k30 with hydroboost and yesterday I went from having breaks to nothing then they came back and now back to nothing.. the power steering still works and you can see fluid move with thr cap off the reservoir and pushing the pedal..multiple shops have said i need a new master but will cost $3000 any info is helpful ps would like to get a new setup with master,reservoir, lines ,and pump
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I have a 1978 k30 with hydroboost and yesterday I went from having breaks to nothing then they came back and now back to nothing.. the power steering still works and you can see fluid move with thr cap off the reservoir and pushing the pedal..multiple shops have said i need a new master but will cost $3000 any info is helpful ps would like to get a new setup with master,reservoir, lines ,and pump
This isn't on a square body truck, but the next generation GMT 400.... On my '97 C3500 Crew Cab, I had the Hydroboost unit replaced in 2022 and it cost around $1000 at a good shop(a not good shop charged me $600 and they didn't install it correctly or bleed it right so it only lasted two weeks). This was just for the booster replacement and proper bleeding. I replaced the master cylinder two years later when it was going bad; that cost $160 for the part and my neighbor and I did the job including bleeding procedures.
The accumulator can go bad or get loose, and this will give symptoms similar to a bad master cylinder. Also, some replacement boosters need a spacer, but don't always come with one. Pushrod length should be checked as well vs. the new unit, before the core is returned. Sometimes a spacer can be replicated with washers between the booster and master cylinder mounting bolts... this had to be done the last time my truck was in the shop, because apparently the new unit, to replace the one being exchanged under warranty, was just a slight bit shorter and so the brakes would get tight after a few miles of driving, and self apply. The washers fixed it and the truck had great brakes for a week...then some dumba$$ pulled out in front of Mom when she was driving the truck, and now it's probably totalled.....
 

derekhisle

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This isn't on a square body truck, but the next generation GMT 400.... On my '97 C3500 Crew Cab, I had the Hydroboost unit replaced in 2022 and it cost around $1000 at a good shop(a not good shop charged me $600 and they didn't install it correctly or bleed it right so it only lasted two weeks). This was just for the booster replacement and proper bleeding. I replaced the master cylinder two years later when it was going bad; that cost $160 for the part and my neighbor and I did the job including bleeding procedures.
The accumulator can go bad or get loose, and this will give symptoms similar to a bad master cylinder. Also, some replacement boosters need a spacer, but don't always come with one. Pushrod length should be checked as well vs. the new unit, before the core is returned. Sometimes a spacer can be replicated with washers between the booster and master cylinder mounting bolts... this had to be done the last time my truck was in the shop, because apparently the new unit, to replace the one being exchanged under warranty, was just a slight bit shorter and so the brakes would get tight after a few miles of driving, and self apply. The washers fixed it and the truck had great brakes for a week...then some dumba$$ pulled out in front of Mom when she was driving the truck, and now it's probably totalled.....
Mine didn't lock up at all but instead went to the floor with no stopping then slowly came back up ..even tried pumping them to build pressure with no success
 

bucket

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Mine didn't lock up at all but instead went to the floor with no stopping then slowly came back up ..even tried pumping them to build pressure with no success

Most likely a failing master cylinder.
 

derekhisle

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HotWheelsBurban

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Check the accumulator can on the booster...they get loose sometimes, and then the unit has NO reserve power. But it sounds more like a bad MC to me too. Also check all your lines for cracks, leakage, damage....
 

bucket

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I've never experienced a hydroboost unit that caused the pedal to go to the floor. Just a lack of assist.
 

Trucksareforwork

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Uh; $3,000 for a master cylinder?

More like $75 bucks and 15 bucks of brake fluid.

Pedal doesn’t go to the floor because of a bad hydro boost. There’s a mechanical link from the brake pedal to the master cylinder that the hydro boost only amplifies. That’s either a busted brake line, a blown caliper or wheel cylinder, or bad master cylinder.

I just redid the entire brake system EXCEPT the hydro boost (rebuilt it) on a k35 and figure the cost of brakes was maybe $750, mainly because I bought new drums and rotors.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Uh; $3,000 for a master cylinder?

More like $75 bucks and 15 bucks of brake fluid.

Pedal doesn’t go to the floor because of a bad hydro boost. There’s a mechanical link from the brake pedal to the master cylinder that the hydro boost only amplifies. That’s either a busted brake line, a blown caliper or wheel cylinder, or bad master cylinder.

I just redid the entire brake system EXCEPT the hydro boost (rebuilt it) on a k35 and figure the cost of brakes was maybe $750, mainly because I bought new drums and rotors.
Yup 3K sounds a bit inflated to me too....
 

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$3000 is the “I don’t want to work it” price. I bought an AC Delco master for $50 from Amazon for my 1987 V3500 and my hydroboost unit from Napa for $500. Shops will typically double the price on parts.

When I owned my shop I would not work on anything older than 10 years. Parts are hard to get, aftermarket stuff is subpar, everything you touch is brittle, rusted, and the hacks that were there before you made things fun. Much of the time to make parts fit, fix other people’s handwork, hunt down parts, etc is not billable.

Junk parts cost time having to redo the job and damage your reputation. You need to find a shop that specializes in classic cars.
 

Trucksareforwork

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A brand-new Hydro unit specifically for a square is under $600

You can get a reman for quite a bit less than that, especially if you exchange a core.

I rebuilt mine with new seals and didn't find it to be a difficult job, but I'm equipped for it.

All that said, I'm betting this is the master cylinder, and those are not expensive for this era truck. A good master cylinder wouldn't let the pedal go to the floor "all the sudden" unless a brake line blew out or some other massive pressure loss. Even then, the proportioning valve would lock out the busted line side.
 

edgephoto

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I kept my core and will rebuild it to have as a spare. Mine as original and I noticed it was leaking when at the body shop. I just replaced the whole unit since it was faster.
 

derekhisle

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I kept my core and will rebuild it to have as a spare. Mine as original and I noticed it was leaking when at the body shop. I just replaced the whole unit since it was faster.
Where is a good place to get a whole setup..ps pump booster and master?
 

derekhisle

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You can get a reman for quite a bit less than that, especially if you exchange a core.

I rebuilt mine with new seals and didn't find it to be a difficult job, but I'm equipped for it.

All that said, I'm betting this is the master cylinder, and those are not expensive for this era truck. A good master cylinder wouldn't let the pedal go to the floor "all the sudden" unless a brake line blew out or some other massive pressure loss. Even then, the proportioning valve would lock out the busted line side.
Idk how if if I can rebuild it and want to just replace all new ps pump master and booster
 

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