1976 Silverado C10 Fuel Pump needed

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

optimist

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2025
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Colorado
First Name
Michelle
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
250
Hello everyone. My mechanic says my issue is the fuel pump that goes to the dual tanks is what is leaking, however he is having issues finding the part. Anyone know where I may be able to find this?

Thank you
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,786
Reaction score
3,099
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
I think he means the fuel solenoid that switches between tanks. The original one for your truck had either 3 ports (fuel pump does not have a return line) or six ports (if your fuel pump has a return line). The 3 port solenoids are still available, but the six port solenoid from 1976 was a version that only one electrical wire connected to it, and that solenoid is not longer available.

Newer six port solenoids have multiple wires, and they use a different dash switch and wiring. You can retrofit them to your truck, but you need more parts and the correct wiring.
 

fast 99

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2021
Posts
2,576
Reaction score
4,088
Location
Spokane, Washington
First Name
Brian
Truck Year
81,85
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
I think he means the fuel solenoid that switches between tanks. The original one for your truck had either 3 ports (fuel pump does not have a return line) or six ports (if your fuel pump has a return line). The 3 port solenoids are still available, but the six port solenoid from 1976 was a version that only one electrical wire connected to it, and that solenoid is not longer available.

Newer six port solenoids have multiple wires, and they use a different dash switch and wiring. You can retrofit them to your truck, but you need more parts and the correct wiring.
I have the 6 port aftermarket single valve on one truck. thought about what I would do if it failed. Might be more trouble than installing the factory set up but what about a pair of the 3 port valves with a single on off on switch?
 

Turbo4whl

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Posts
4,121
Reaction score
10,502
Location
Downingtown, PA
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
350
I have the 6 port aftermarket single valve on one truck. thought about what I would do if it failed. Might be more trouble than installing the factory set up but what about a pair of the 3 port valves with a single on off on switch?
Just use one, 3 port electric valve and add a "T"

Since the OP has not been back to see any reply's, there is an easy fix. Early carb'ed trucks don't have a fuel return like fuel injected trucks. The second line to the fuel pump is just a vent. You "T" the 3 vent lines together. Add this valve bolted to the floor. Right tank on, or left tank on, or turn both tanks off.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

75gmck25

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Posts
2,786
Reaction score
3,099
Location
Northern Virginia
First Name
Bruce
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K25 Camper Special TH350 NP203
Engine Size
5.7
I you have a fuel pump with two barbed connections and one threaded connection for the steel line to the carburetor, you definitely have a fuel return line, not a vent.

It should work to use two 3 port solenoids, or maybe you just cap off the return line. The return line allows warm/hot fuel to circulate back to the tank, which cools it and helps prevent vapor lock. With no fuel return you have more risk of vapor lock, but many trucks work fine that way.

My 1975 K20 apparently has California emissions, and that included the return line. Many ‘75 trucks did not have a fuel return.
 

optimist

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2025
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Colorado
First Name
Michelle
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
250
Thank you everyone for the replies. I will need to get more info from the mechanic on exactly what I need or see if he can do these other options
 

Grit dog

Full Access Member
Joined
May 18, 2020
Posts
9,558
Reaction score
17,538
Location
The Right side of Washington
First Name
Todd
Truck Year
1986, 1977
Truck Model
K20, C10
Engine Size
454, 350
2ea single wire 3 port valves can be rigged to provide supply and return. These are cheap and readily available.
IMO if you plan on summer driving in the mountains and already are setup for a return line, keep it. Vapor lock is more prevalent at higher altitudes (and heat).
But it will run fine with a 2 port pump (no return) and a 1 wire 3 port switching valve.
As you unfortunately don’t have the ability to fix this diy, if your mechanic is not creative and understands dual tank carb setups, you may need to find someone who does.
This is old technology that hasn’t been on class 1-3 trucks for 3-4 decades now. Need someone who knows what they’re doing.
 

optimist

Junior Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2025
Posts
3
Reaction score
1
Location
Colorado
First Name
Michelle
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
250
Yes, finding someone to work on a truck of this age has been tricky to say the least.
 

Old Guy Bill

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2023
Posts
981
Reaction score
2,960
Location
KY
First Name
Bill
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
400
I've not had any luck out of the common pumps available, Carter, Napa, etc..
I've tried three with a return line port, two of them the fuel pressure jumped continuously from 2-5lbs, the third was consistent at 5lbs but failed after a month.
The Edelbrock without a return has solid 5-6lbs of pressure.. but no return line. Hasn't caused me a problem...yet.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
48,666
Posts
1,074,186
Members
43,338
Latest member
jw23655
Top