10 Bolt Posi Strength?

[lusktommy]

How much torque and abuse can a 10 bolt posi take? need to know. the motor has alot of torque and it was enough to shell a new 700R in 2 days so i need to know if that diff is in trouble as well

 

[crazy4offroad]

Not a lot. Stock tires, stock motor and slightly aggressive use/abuse has been known to destroy them.

 

[lusktommy]

what would you recommend cuz it has stock size tires and its gonna have alot of torque at the rear when i drop the 383 stroker im dropping in when i get done building it and im getting wider tires after that upraging to 3.73 gears

i mean the mean 350 in it now is what shelled the brand new 700R lol

 

[crazy4offroad]

Detroit locker is the first one that pops to mind. Yukon/Spartan are lower tier units but they are comparable to Richmond's Lock-Right. You'll have to get an open carrier for the lunchbox style lockers though.

 

[lusktommy]

Detroit locker is the first one that pops to mind. Yukon/Spartan are lower tier units but they are comparable to Richmond's Lock-Right. You'll have to get an open carrier for the lunchbox style lockers though.

Ive always been a fan of Detroit Locker thats what ill go with thanks

 

[HotRodPC]

This being a 1/2 ton 2wd. It might survive a little bit with the Detroit Locker carrier instead of the OEM carrier. So your next weakest link will be twisting axles off at the splines.

 

[lusktommy]

Good point what would you sujest bud. I wanna 9in currie but that gets rather exspensive quick and I wanna stay chevy if I can lol

 

[HotRodPC]

You can give it a whirl and see it goes. Install the Detroit Locker, that should give you a bit more strength in the carrier. If you break axles, replace them with Chromolly axles and see how that works. Anything else is going to involve some fab work. Like finding a 9.5 semi float out of a 1/2 ton 88-98 truck, then you'd have to get axles for a 454 SS truck so they'd be 5 lug, cuz I'll assure you, you won't find a 454 SS axle in the bone yard, then you'd have to have the spring perches moved the fit the Squarebody. Some racers do in and just run 15in 6 lug wheels in the back and 15in 5 lug in the front, but you'd still have to have the spring perches moved.

 

[lusktommy]

i will have to do something like that when i drop my 383 stroker in but the 350 thats in it now is in the ball park of 400ft lbs of torque so axles shouldnt be a worry right now but that 383 stroker is gonna be hitting close to 650-700ft lbs of torque and thats where i will prolly break some axles haha

 

[foamypirate]

...650-700ft lbs of torque and thats where i will prolly break some axles haha

Ehhh, no offense, but good luck with that unless it's boosted.

 

[HotRodPC]

A far stetch even boosted isn't it? I'll be doing good to get 550ft lbs out of a mild cammed 10:1 Olds 455. It'll probably come in about 510-525ft lbs and I'm hoping for 450-475hp.
Just wondering if someone isn't giving you a line of **** on motor build. And even if and when I do add a little 100 shot of NOS to it, I'll get the hp gain, but max torque isn't going to change much if any. It'll probably just move the torque band rather than increase the max torque.
I think I'd hold my ass cheeks a little tighter cuz someone is sure trying to blow some smoke up your ass with that figure LT and even if it's true, you won't be driving that truck on the street. That's not a streetable motor without overheat and ideling issues along with trans overheat cuz you'd have such a high stall in it.

 

[foamypirate]

Yeah, that 650-700 lb-ft would be mighty ridiculous. To hit that with a 383, I have to assume you'll be revving the piss out of it. Horsepower is just Torque X RPM / 5252...so lets do the math. 650 lb-ft * 6500RPM (assumed, 7k is probably more realistic though) / 5252 = 804. We bump that up to 7000RPM and you're talking 866 HP.

Good luck getting 804 ponies out of a 383...that's over 2HP/cubic inch, which is not ANYWHERE close to being streetable...that's a flat out drag race, load it on a trailer when your done, engine.

I don't mean to dash your hopes/dreams/whatever, but it's just not realistic at all.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yeah, that 650-700 lb-ft would be mighty ridiculous. To hit that with a 383, I have to assume you'll be revving the piss out of it. Horsepower is just Torque X RPM / 5252...so lets do the math. 650 lb-ft * 6500RPM (assumed, 7k is probably more realistic though) / 5252 = 804. We bump that up to 7000RPM and you're talking 866 HP.

Good luck getting 804 ponies out of a 383...that's over 2HP/cubic inch, which is not ANYWHERE close to being streetable...that's a flat out drag race, load it on a trailer when your done, engine.

I don't mean to dash your hopes/dreams/whatever, but it's just not realistic at all.

Ditto, I think who ever you're talking to, you might wanna revisit their plan for your build and find out what's what. Also find out where hp/tq is being taken from, Flywheel or Rear Wheels, I know for fact that has to be flywheel if it's real, but bear in mind, hp/tq at the flywheel isn't near that at the rear wheels.

 

[lusktommy]

alright i guess its time to unfold my plan and see what yall think now, no one is feeding me crap i was showed how to build a motor once when i was 15 and that was by my dad and ive been doing mainly stock rebuilds for other people. but now i build mild performance for people. so the 383 im building is my plan and im choosing every part to go in it. so ill start with the bottom end.

-SCAT forged 4340 Balanced Crankshaft
-SCAT forged 4340 H-beam Rods
-Ross Racing Forged Aluminum Pistons -13.00cc Domes
-Comp Cams Retro Fit Magnum 314/314 .600/.600 Cam kit
(thats not official yet havent made up my mind on the cam really)
-Comp Cams Roller Rockers 1.5:1
-RHS Pro Action Heads 64cc Chambers and 235cc Intake Runners 2.08/160 valves
-Offenhauser Duel Q-Jet High Rise Intake
-And 2 freshly rebuilt Rochester Q-jet Carbs
-Mallory FireStorm Distributor

ive had the internal balanced so my machine shop claims redline will be about 8500rpm which more than enough

 

[HotRodPC]

That's not even close to a streetable motor. That without doubt is nothing less than a trailered to the track bracket race motor. Keep in mind, anyone can bolt a motor together. But not everyone can design one to stay together. Red line as in that's where you'll float the valves or red line as in that's what will hold together? And you're putting all this in a Stroker 383 and think it'll turn 8500? Any idea what the Static Compression ratio will be on this motor? Pump Gas? Dynamic Compression Ratio? Is this cam, roller, sold or hydraulic? Not sure if you're doing research or just listening to people that you THINK know what they're talking about, but alot more work that not you're not mentioning here needs to be done to build this kind of motor. If I was your machinist, I'd tell you all this **** too. This way you'll be back once a week having a motor built and keep me busy. As said, anyone can bolt a motor together with parts and big cams, and impressive sticking out of the hood tunnel rams, but will it run good? Will it hold together?