10 Bolt Posi Strength?

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lusktommy

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That's not even close to a streetable motor. That without doubt is nothing less than a trailered to the track bracket race motor. Keep in mind, anyone can bolt a motor together. But not everyone can design one to stay together. Red line as in that's where you'll float the valves or red line as in that's what will hold together? And you're putting all this in a Stroker 383 and think it'll turn 8500? Any idea what the Static Compression ratio will be on this motor? Pump Gas? Dynamic Compression Ratio? Is this cam, roller, sold or hydraulic? Not sure if you're doing research or just listening to people that you THINK know what they're talking about, but alot more work that not you're not mentioning here needs to be done to build this kind of motor. If I was your machinist, I'd tell you all this **** too. This way you'll be back once a week having a motor built and keep me busy. As said, anyone can bolt a motor together with parts and big cams, and impressive sticking out of the hood tunnel rams, but will it run good? Will it hold together?

the redline is what it had been balance to and that is what it can stand, now i will not be reving that high 7500 is where im gonna be shifting at. and i say that my intake is advertised from 3000-8000rpm power band. so thats what i try to stick between. and The Compression is gonna close to 12:1 maybe a little higher and i might be wrong if so correct me, and no pump gas is out of the question i buy race gas for track and additives for street and she will be running the street too not just the track and i guess you will see how good it runs when im done with it and take it to Pine Valley Raceway in Dibol, Texas and video the passes i make. i have buil high performance motor before to go in a 1968 Camaro started from scratch on a 502 big block and that was my learning experience of building and setting up performance motors i have a good friend that is part owner in Mast Motorsport here in Nacogdoches, Texas and all they do is build wicked engines and beef up cars and trucks. and yes i havent went into all the details and things i have had done just to build the bottom end the proper way to be able to stand extreme abuse. and if i need to lower the compression some plz let me know the RHS heads im getting are coming from a friend that didnt need them anymore so if need bigger chamber heads or flat top pistons im open to all recs on this. but the flow from those head will be phenomenal i think so id much rather change pistons than heads
 

HotRodPC

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Bud, I think someone is filling your head full of ****. I balance my stock motors to within 1/2 gram of tolerance and they are actually usually spot on, but that doesn't mean they can stand 8500 rpm. You can only balance to balanced. Either that, there is some new technology I don't know yet. Are they measuring molecules now or what???
 

lusktommy

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Bud, I think someone is filling your head full of ****. I balance my stock motors to within 1/2 gram of tolerance and they are actually usually spot on, but that doesn't mean they can stand 8500 rpm. You can only balance to balanced. Either that, there is some new technology I don't know yet. Are they measuring molecules now or what???

your getting over my head on how they balanced it, ive been using Pinkstons Automotive Engine Services for about 5 years now and they have always shot straight with me but you have me questioning there word now haha i think im gonna take this project to Mast Motorsports and let them help me set this thing up the last thing i wanna do is get about $20k in this motor and then she come apart on me lol they have better equipment then typical machine shops do since they build motors that push 1000hp + haha
 

crazy4offroad

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I think the 8500 rpm rating comes from the quality of the crankshaft. Stockers are good to 6500 or so occasionally. May also have to do with the ratings of the rod/main bolts (ARPs??)
 

lusktommy

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I think the 8500 rpm rating comes from the quality of the crankshaft. Stockers are good to 6500 or so occasionally. May also have to do with the ratings of the rod/main bolts (ARPs??)

its got a SCAT 4340 Crank and Scat 4340 H-Beam rods
 

foamypirate

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The bottom end isn't the only consideration either, at those RPMs, you need a SERIOUS valve train or you'll float a valve and grenade the whole thing.
 

lusktommy

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The bottom end isn't the only consideration either, at those RPMs, you need a SERIOUS valve train or you'll float a valve and grenade the whole thing.

yes im putting a very strong valve train on the heads im getting havent got that far the heads are bare, i know i need really strong rocker arms, pushrods, and springs, the Comp Cam kit cam with everything but ive been told that what comes with that cam is good up to around 7000rpm and im not gonna take any chances with that stuff you know. which on this motor is my first roller cam motor im kinda liking the idea of not having to change to stronger springs after cam break in when you use flat tappet cams
 
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crazy4offroad

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its got a SCAT 4340 Crank and Scat 4340 H-Beam rods

That's good, I bet that's what they meant, that the rotating assembly would be good up to that rpm. I would be interested to know what length rods they recommended going with. I've read that longer rods (with pistons using offset wrist pin locations to make up for rod length) are better for withstanding higher rpms, since the rod angle coming up from the bottom of the stroke is reduced, which alleviates stress on the wrist pin bosses of the pistons at high rpms. Then read another place that says just the opposite. However I do read more from builders that agree the longer rods increase durability for higher rpms than the opposite.
 

lusktommy

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That's good, I bet that's what they meant, that the rotating assembly would be good up to that rpm. I would be interested to know what length rods they recommended going with. I've read that longer rods (with pistons using offset wrist pin locations to make up for rod length) are better for withstanding higher rpms, since the rod angle coming up from the bottom of the stroke is reduced, which alleviates stress on the wrist pin bosses of the pistons at high rpms. Then read another place that says just the opposite. However I do read more from builders that agree the longer rods increase durability for higher rpms than the opposite.

i asked them before i bought the rotating assembly and they said 6.00" so thats what i bought SCAT rotating assembly with 6.00" SCAT 4340 Forged H-Beam Rods
 

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