1" ORD body lift

[Silver Square]

Has anybody ever put on the 1" ORD body lift kit? If so, did you need to modify anything to make it work? fan shroud, radiator hoses, steering column, shift linkage, etc...? They are made from aluminum. I've heard that direct contact between aluminum and steel can cause corrosion because of the dissimilar metals reacting with one another. Any problems with that? Would I be better off with hockey pucks?

I've seen several posts on various forums that a 1" body lift actually makes the bumpers sit nicer on the trucks, and can help with additiional clearance when working on the truck. Any Thoughts?

I'm just a bit concerned that when I get my 35x12.50 boggers I may end up with clearance issues. It looks like they actually measure 35.4" tall and have a 13.2" CS. Most tires tend to run smaller than advertised, but these seem to run larger. I have a 4" BDS spring lift on my '77 K15.

 

[nvrenuf]

I have an ORD 1” body lift on my Blazer. I did have to trim the bottom of the fan shroud and the steering shaft does want to extend a little so the plastic plugs in the overlapping joint need to be drilled / melted out (there’s plenty of overlap, no danger of it falling apart).

With only a 1” body lift the steering shaft would probably reach but it would put a lot of stress on the rag joint.

I don’t have factory bumpers so I can’t say how it’ll look. My old truck had a 2” body lift with factory bumpers, you could tell it had a body lift but the gap wasn’t as noticeable as a 3”. A 1” might not be noticeable at all.

I did have to extend the trans linkage on my old truck, my current Blazer has a hydraulic 4spd so I didn’t have to do anything for that.

 

[Grit dog]

maybe Consider moving the front axle forward with ORD zero rate blocks. Think it’ll help the same or more than 1” of body lift.
But your wheel offset makes a difference too. More neg offset = less front tire clearance when turning.

 

[Silver Square]

maybe Consider moving the front axle forward with ORD zero rate blocks. Think it’ll help the same or more than 1” of body lift.
But your wheel offset makes a difference too. More neg offset = less front tire clearance when turning.

Are those safe for a street truck? That is another concern, I got a set of the US Mags Indy slots, and they are only available with 3.5" of backspacing when you get the 15x10s. I was concerned about it hitting the back of the front fenders.... will moving the axle forward make it more likely to rub on the front though? I don't want to trade one problem for its opposite lol.

 

[Ricko1966]

Offset and width makes a huge difference in the arc that the wheel travels in. Look at my mower,sorry,couldn't stand one of my cars on end. The farther the outside edge of the tire is from the centerline of the balljoint,the larger the arc that the wheel moves in,making it more likely to rub.

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[Grit dog]

Are those safe for a street truck? That is another concern, I got a set of the US Mags Indy slots, and they are only available with 3.5" of backspacing when you get the 15x10s. I was concerned about it hitting the back of the front fenders.... will moving the axle forward make it more likely to rub on the front though? I don't want to trade one problem for its opposite lol.

Yes they’re safe. They have a pin and bolt thru the leaf pack. Like adding a big fat leaf spring that’s only 4” long or whatever.
I put them on this truck. (Just slapped them in stock axle location because the truck is currently a pavement princess and with the now approx 5” of lift the front driveshaft is almost too short. Haven’t had the time to spend moving the sway bar, readjusting the drag link, new driveshaft etc).
But you can move the axle 1” or 1.5” forward. Like @Ricko1966 said, if you look at the arc the wheels turn in, and it’s more exaggerated by the axle caster, the tires essentially get farther away from the front edge of the wheel well when the wheels are turned.
You’ll see it if you just observe the tire position front and rear at partial and full steering lock.
This truck is 35s, 20x9 wheels with 3.5” or 4” bs. I forget. They stick out though. The tires are still slightly under 35” true diameter but pretty big square lugs. And they’re still real closet to the back of the fenders when turning. I did catch the trim and rip it off on one side even with the 1” zero rates. Turning and hit a bump. The axle needs to go forward to be safer from contact in more situations.

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[Silver Square]

Yes they’re safe. They have a pin and bolt thru the leaf pack. Like adding a big fat leaf spring that’s only 4” long or whatever.
I put them on this truck. (Just slapped them in stock axle location because the truck is currently a pavement princess and with the now approx 5” of lift the front driveshaft is almost too short. Haven’t had the time to spend moving the sway bar, readjusting the drag link, new driveshaft etc).
But you can move the axle 1” or 1.5” forward. Like @Ricko1966 said, if you look at the arc the wheels turn in, and it’s more exaggerated by the axle caster, the tires essentially get farther away from the front edge of the wheel well when the wheels are turned.
You’ll see it if you just observe the tire position front and rear at partial and full steering lock.
This truck is 35s, 20x9 wheels with 3.5” or 4” bs. I forget. They stick out though. The tires are still slightly under 35” true diameter but pretty big square lugs. And they’re still real closet to the back of the fenders when turning. I did catch the trim and rip it off on one side even with the 1” zero rates. Turning and hit a bump. The axle needs to go forward to be safer from contact in more situations.

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I just ordered these for my truck, front and rear. I'm going to move the front forward the full 1.5" to avoid any potential issues. I know that will definitely need a new front driveshaft, and probably a rear one too since I already have a 4" lift. Aside from the sway bar and drag link that you mentioned, is there anything else that you noticed on your truck that will need to be modified? I just want to make sure I get everything I need. Thanks! Oh, do you know if there are any off the shelf solutions for the sway bar mounts, or will something need to be custom made?

 

[Grit dog]

I just ordered these for my truck, front and rear. I'm going to move the front forward the full 1.5" to avoid any potential issues. I know that will definitely need a new front driveshaft, and probably a rear one too since I already have a 4" lift. Aside from the sway bar and drag link that you mentioned, is there anything else that you noticed on your truck that will need to be modified? I just want to make sure I get everything I need. Thanks! Oh, do you know if there are any off the shelf solutions for the sway bar mounts, or will something need to be custom made?

Eh I don’t know. I just slapped mine in stock location.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I just ordered these for my truck, front and rear. I'm going to move the front forward the full 1.5" to avoid any potential issues. I know that will definitely need a new front driveshaft, and probably a rear one too since I already have a 4" lift. Aside from the sway bar and drag link that you mentioned, is there anything else that you noticed on your truck that will need to be modified? I just want to make sure I get everything I need. Thanks! Oh, do you know if there are any off the shelf solutions for the sway bar mounts, or will something need to be custom made?

ORD or diy4x should have them and other stuff you could need.

It's just fan shroud and shifter linkage adjustment. Depending on how straight the front bumper is it could possibly touch the valance.

 

[Strick]

Yes they’re safe. They have a pin and bolt thru the leaf pack. Like adding a big fat leaf spring that’s only 4” long or whatever.
I put them on this truck. (Just slapped them in stock axle location because the truck is currently a pavement princess and with the now approx 5” of lift the front driveshaft is almost too short. Haven’t had the time to spend moving the sway bar, readjusting the drag link, new driveshaft etc).
But you can move the axle 1” or 1.5” forward. Like @Ricko1966 said, if you look at the arc the wheels turn in, and it’s more exaggerated by the axle caster, the tires essentially get farther away from the front edge of the wheel well when the wheels are turned.
You’ll see it if you just observe the tire position front and rear at partial and full steering lock.
This truck is 35s, 20x9 wheels with 3.5” or 4” bs. I forget. They stick out though. The tires are still slightly under 35” true diameter but pretty big square lugs. And they’re still real closet to the back of the fenders when turning. I did catch the trim and rip it off on one side even with the 1” zero rates. Turning and hit a bump. The axle needs to go forward to be safer from contact in more situations.

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Your truck still looks great @Grit dog. I like those '20s that you put on a couple years ago. I may try a set myself in the future.

HS

 

[Bennyt]

The ORD zero-rate blocks are great. I installed a set on my K5. They have a lot more surface area on the cast part of the differential where the spring rides. I moved my axle centerline forward 1" if I recall correctly which helped but not eliminated the tire hitting the rear edge of the front fender under articulation with 35" BFG M/T.

I used 2 large c-clamps to hold the spring pack together when installing. I had to drill my spring pack(Pro-Comp brand) to fit the larger pin but on my friends truck it was the same pin/bolt size.

 

[Grit dog]

ORD or diy4x should have them and other stuff you could need.

It's just fan shroud and shifter linkage adjustment. Depending on how straight the front bumper is it could possibly touch the valance.

He bought the zero rates. Not the body lift originally mentioned.

 

[Zelph]

ORD or diy4x should have them and other stuff you could need.

It's just fan shroud and shifter linkage adjustment. Depending on how straight the front bumper is it could possibly touch the valance.

Kert closed up DIY4X last year. Shame as his products usually came powdercoated.

 

[nvrenuf]

Kert closed up DIY4X last year. Shame as his products usually came powdercoated.

Just to say it out loud, while Kert did close diy4x he is still making / selling some of the bigger products via his "Iron Monger Racing" FB page.