Power window only goes up

My passenger side window will only go up. I replaced the switch and tested the relay and also took out the motor and hooked it to a power source where I tested to make sure that it goes forward and reverse, which it does. Any ideas as to what can be causing this problem?


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broken wire between the switch and relay? or relay and motor?

I'm halfway talking out of my butt here, but I had a similar problem with a Ford and it turned out that the master switch on the drivers side was the problem.

Thanks for all the responses I’ll order a new switch and if that doesn’t work I’ll trace the wires!


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johndeeregreg4 said:

My passenger side window will only go up. I replaced the switch and tested the relay and also took out the motor and hooked it to a power source where I tested to make sure that it goes forward and reverse, which it does. Any ideas as to what can be causing this problem?


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Click to expand...

We use to spray wd40 into the switches and work back and forth a few times, it cleans them and sometimes they will start to work again. Both passenger window switches have to work for the passenger window to work.

There is no factory window relay...is this all original wiring?

This is one of those super gmc Silverado Cheyenne 5 door convertible Tahoe suburbalades with a factory LT1 and Dana 85 front and rear axles c1500 9 wheel drives right?
@gmachinz im pretty sure the 8 windows come with factory ford relays.
You know it’s the 83 model with the roll down front and back windows too, for maximum convertible enjoyment.

It has the LMC upgraded power system


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LMC....man-I wouldnt even wanna see how your wiring is butchered up-their kit is garbage. I could walk you thru it all if it was stock or even had a quality upgrade but I seen how LMC wants you to install their kit and it’s terrible.

TubeTruck said:

broken wire between the switch and relay? or relay and motor?

Click to expand...

I have to take it the vehicle your talking about is the '85 K10/350.

The wires commonly break in the section between the door and the body. That's the point where they flex every time you open and close the door. As the wires get old they become brittle and break. You can unplug the wires from the fuse block and do a conductivity test on each wire to see if you have a broken wire. If you find you do have a broken wire you can feed the harness back through the door, through the boot and start your repairs.

Check to see if the wires are brittle. If so, which they almost undoubtedly will be in an '85, it is a good idea. in my opinion, to splice in new wires in the section that flexes, solder correctly and shrink wrap to avoid having to do it over and over again as each wire breaks. Be sure to use the correct gauge of wire. At least splicing in new wire is my recommendation if yours are brittle., YMMV.

While this may not be the cause of your problem it's the most common problem I've found causing the issues you've described.

Easy to check and very common issue.

Good luck.

Ok I’m gonna inspect my driver side switch but if that isn’t the case then I will definitely check out the wires! Thanks!


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Ok I’m gonna inspect my driver side switch but if that isn’t the case then I will definitely check out the wires! Thanks!


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TubeTruck said:

broken wire between the switch and relay? or relay and motor?

Click to expand...

I have to take it the vehicle your talking about is the '85 K10/350.

The wires commonly break in the section between the door and the body. That's the point where they flex every time you open and close the door. As the wires get old they become brittle and break. You can unplug the wires from the fuse block and do a conductivity test on each wire to see if you have a broken wire. If you find you do have a broken wire you can feed the harness back through the door, through the boot and start your repairs.

Check to see if the wires are brittle. If so, which they almost undoubtedly will be in an '85, it is a good idea. in my opinion, to splice in new wires in the section that flexes, solder correctly and shrink wrap to avoid having to do it over and over again as each wire breaks. Be sure to use the correct gauge of wire. At least splicing in new wire is my recommendation if yours are brittle., YMMV.

While this may not be the cause of your problem it's the most common problem I've found causing the issues you've described.

Easy to check and very common issue.

Good luck.

There’s seems to be a glitch in the matrix on these replies