What have you done to your square lately??

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84GMCSierra

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Had my truck towed back to the shop as I lost all oil pressure a month ago. No one can figure out why it did this. I put in a new oil pump, removed the engine oil cooler and still nothing. Heard it could be a spun main bearing. Hope not! Crate 350 with about 80k I got from someone who took it out of his truck
 

DoubleDingo

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Had my truck towed back to the shop as I lost all oil pressure a month ago. No one can figure out why it did this. I put in a new oil pump, removed the engine oil cooler and still nothing. Heard it could be a spun main bearing. Hope not! Crate 350 with about 80k I got from someone who took it out of his truck
Why are the engine gods mad at you?
 

gilby959798

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Personally... I'd get her something you won't care about. My daughter was in six accidents in her first year if driving... and none of them were her fault. She had teacher's pull out in front of her, Jeep's back up over her hood, people that rear ended her, and bikers pull out of side streets into her. Out of four vehicles, the only one that survived was an '88 three quarter ton Chevy. And all of them were manual transmissions.
Honestly, I was thinking of it being a project for her to work on and learn some good life skills. I don't want her to have something ultra nice. I do want minimal seats and a manual. Its hell for these kids when I was them at one time :gathering:
 

Radiohead

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Care
I keep telling the wife that is what I am going to get our daughter for her first vehicle. Manual roundeye square 4wd shortbed.
Careful, that's a boy magnet right there
 

IPB13

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Was it hunting for idle? Our does sometimes and I thought about taking out and cleaning; reset.
It would idle ok then drop off and pulse, so hunting a bit. Then when ever I went to put it into gear it would just die unless you were applying constant throttle. I tried cleaning the IAC while waiting for the new one, and it did no good. Between the new IAC, new injectors and cleaning/servicing the ITB system i haven't had any further issues.
 

xm20k

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Got the cable sorted but not liking how it operates so I have a rod with heim ends on the way.
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bucket

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Got the cable sorted but not liking how it operates so I have a rod with heim ends on the way.
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Rods and heims will look much better too. That arrangement looks like a park brake cable, with the spring on there.
 

WFarm

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Finally got the second exhaust manifold, so blasted them and painted today. First time I’ve used this particular High-temp paint and so far happy with how it applied.

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xm20k

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Rods and heims will look much better too. That arrangement looks like a park brake cable, with the spring on there.
Ya the spring is one of the things I don't like. Without it, it won't close reliably. Also had to move the return springs to the rear carb but they don't operate as smoothly due to the added spacing.

Going to pull the cable and bracket and run a rod down to the rear carb. Should look much cleaner and just work smoother.
 

Radiohead

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Today's mission - figure out the weird howl in the right rear hub.
Mission status - Success! With bonus issue.

Looks like someone was in here in the not too long past and hung new brakes, including a new wheel cylinder and possibly springs. The adjuster is a weird, aluminumy color and seems stuck. At least it won't turn by hand holding the spin back thingy (I can't remember the proper nomenclature right now, lol) away. So that's great! But....

The wheel bearings are toast. It appears that the preload wasn't done correctly, or at brake job time it was decided to let the next guy (me) deal with it. Did I mention the last owners were methican Americans? Regardless, it is nice to know my diagnosis skills are still going well enough to call it correctly ahead of time. However, the local gear oil in the hub seemed a bit like Vaseline (Did they use wheel bearing grease on reassembly?) and had a faint yet distinct glitter about it.

So in conclusion, I need to take the left side down to see if it's brakes are new or if someone pulled a one wheel deal. And to inspect those wheel bearings as well. Should just do both sides and be done with it. Need to verify that other adjuster too. Most importantly, I will pop the differential cover off and give it the hairy eyeball and a shot of fresh gear oil. Wish I had a 3.73 gearset and an air locker on hand, maybe next time. Then I can do those bearings too!

Question for the braintrust - I noticed some galling where the inner race seats to the axle housing. Is this going to bite my a$$ later with another fried bearing? Also, the retainer nuts look like record grooves too where they are supposed to engage the outers inner race/locking ring surface. Is this normal on a 14bff? Didn't see this addressed on the 14b website (http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Bible/index.html).

Thanks folks, knocking another one off the punchlist feels great.
 

bucket

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Today's mission - figure out the weird howl in the right rear hub.
Mission status - Success! With bonus issue.

Looks like someone was in here in the not too long past and hung new brakes, including a new wheel cylinder and possibly springs. The adjuster is a weird, aluminumy color and seems stuck. At least it won't turn by hand holding the spin back thingy (I can't remember the proper nomenclature right now, lol) away. So that's great! But....

The wheel bearings are toast. It appears that the preload wasn't done correctly, or at brake job time it was decided to let the next guy (me) deal with it. Did I mention the last owners were methican Americans? Regardless, it is nice to know my diagnosis skills are still going well enough to call it correctly ahead of time. However, the local gear oil in the hub seemed a bit like Vaseline (Did they use wheel bearing grease on reassembly?) and had a faint yet distinct glitter about it.

So in conclusion, I need to take the left side down to see if it's brakes are new or if someone pulled a one wheel deal. And to inspect those wheel bearings as well. Should just do both sides and be done with it. Need to verify that other adjuster too. Most importantly, I will pop the differential cover off and give it the hairy eyeball and a shot of fresh gear oil. Wish I had a 3.73 gearset and an air locker on hand, maybe next time. Then I can do those bearings too!

Question for the braintrust - I noticed some galling where the inner race seats to the axle housing. Is this going to bite my a$$ later with another fried bearing? Also, the retainer nuts look like record grooves too where they are supposed to engage the outers inner race/locking ring surface. Is this normal on a 14bff? Didn't see this addressed on the 14b website (http://www.billavista.com/Tech/Articles/14-Bolt_Bible/index.html).

Thanks folks, knocking another one off the punchlist feels great.

I wouldn't worry about the galling, as long as the new bearing slides on and seats well. If it doesn't slide on, just hand file the galling down until it does.

So the face of the spindle nuts have machined grooves? If so, that's common. Maybe not original, but new replacements.
 

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