Sbc 350 lifter tick help

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Ricko1966

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Okay, will go over it again tonight. And just for learning purposes if the pushrod wasn’t spinning that would mean the lifter is collapsed?
It would mean the lifter isn't turning when the cam is pushing it up. If it doesn't turn then it rubs on the cam lobes as it's being pushed up and wipes out tge bottom of the lifter and the cam lobe. Adjust your valves correctly before you start getting too worried about things. This might be simply needs valve adjustment.
 

Ryanbrown36

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It would mean the lifter isn't turning when the cam is pushing it up. If it doesn't turn then it rubs on the cam lobes as it's being pushed up and wipes out tge bottom of the lifter and the cam lobe. Adjust your valves correctly before you start getting too worried about things. This might be simply needs valve adjustment.
Okay going to re do it now, I just removed the fuel pump before I did the valves and a small circular plastic piece that looked to be broke in half fell out any ideas what it might be
 

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RanchWelder

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If the lifter bore was tight, or there is crap in the lifter contaminating it, you will not fix it with lighter oil.

Verify lifter bore was not warped and the lifter can rotate. If it was stuck during break in, the spring is heat soaked and the valve in the lifter could be contaminated.

My lifters were not stuck. Only 1 seemed slightly tight and it did not get wiped. Go figure.

If the flat tappet did not rotate during break in, the damage is done. The Comp cams card specified 1/8th turn, NOT 1/2. I went 1/4 because it seemed too soft on the plunger.

Posted videos from a cam machine shop proving the billet steel coming from the largest cam shaft casting blank manufacturer (which Comp uses), is sending out cam blanks with sub-standard heat treatment.

Several lobes were 37-62. Same blank.

The lifters failed Rockwell testing as well. Comp needs to step up and stop burning the affordable flat tappet market by forcing the supplier to meet QC standards.

All the money went to LS technologies.
Bad move unless you want double to rebuild cost. The affordable re-build market is corrupt.

My new / used OEM lifters are roller and are at 3/4 turn because we tested the range and do not want to adjust after start up.

Did up the pushrods to Engine Pro hardened rods, despite not supposedly needing them for a mild roller engine.

My Comp hardened flat tapper rods were erased like a pencil at three ends.

The oil guy on youtube has convincing proof 1/2 the zinc bottle reduces excessive wear. Too much zinc complicates the poor machine quality of imported parts. If they were dirty out of the box, extra zinc makes it worse.

Done with flat tappets.
My engine was ruined with Comp cams high energy lifter, hardened push rods and a flat cam.

Worst damage cam my friend ever seen in 30 years of high end diesel engine and transmission repairs.

Hoping you have better luck than mine, with the same symptoms.

Will never install any lifter without personally disassemble, micro-pollish and clean every internal myself.

New Connecting rods get cleaned with soap and blown dry every time, no exceptions.

After what found in my brand new Comp flat lifters, never again.

Good luck with your engine!
 
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PrairieDrifter

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Okay going to re do it now, I just removed the fuel pump before I did the valves and a small circular plastic piece that looked to be broke in half fell out any ideas what it might be
Looks like it's a piece from a fuel pump maybe. Get a pic of the pump arm.
 

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