Steering column compatibility

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18ozcanofdrpepper

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1987 GMC sierra 1/2 ton 4wd 4 speed. Cruise control, tilt wheel, power windows.

I live in Florida, but i was recently in Texas helping my uncle work on this truck. The steering column is busted and hes looking to replace it with a good used one. Its a farm truck so we're trying not to break the bank.

The old column is already out, and there were quite a few connectors that had to be removed. My question is: do i have to find a column from a nearly identical truck (1987 stickshift, cruise, tilt) in order for all the connectors to match? The cruise didn't work anyway and the tilt doesn't really matter so if i can use a column without those features it opens up my options.

I've attached some pictures that i took. Not sure if it's visible, but the wheel looked like one from the later model 88-98 trucks (im guessing the 87 had it because its an in between year)

Edit: I understand that it's possible to splice the wiring and make almost any column work, if it were my truck id have no problem doing that. However my uncle wants to do it plug and play

Thank you for any advice

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RetroC10Sport

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Yes, you can use any 1984-91 floor shift column. Might grab the pedal setup if possible and cheap, highly sought after and sell for $300+
 

Ricko1966

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I don't see a reason why you couldn't even use from an automatic. It won't look exactly right but a lot easier to find. Take the shift lever off of it.
 

CalSgt

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What exactly is broken on the column? You may have better luck repairing the factory column


Some of the connections on your column are rather standard and are the same for several year models
1st - Standard turn signal switch wiring
2nd - Standard Brake lamp switch NO/NC combo I assume: NO for brake lamp and NC for Cruise control cancel
3rd - Headlight Hi/Low switch I assume - not sure if these are standard on newer trucks, most older squares have a floor mounted switch
4th - looks to be Wiper delay module - these are not likely standard and have changed some over the years.
5th - Standard ignition switch
 

18ozcanofdrpepper

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What exactly is broken on the column? You may have better luck repairing the factory column


Some of the connections on your column are rather standard and are the same for several year models
1st - Standard turn signal switch wiring
2nd - Standard Brake lamp switch NO/NC combo I assume: NO for brake lamp and NC for Cruise control cancel
3rd - Headlight Hi/Low switch I assume - not sure if these are standard on newer trucks, most older squares have a floor mounted switch
4th - looks to be Wiper delay module - these are not likely standard and have changed some over the years.
5th - Standard ignition switch
Several things, the locking mechanism for the tilt wheel is broken, the steering wheel wont unlock from the body (where the levers and ignition tumbler are) and the body is loose from everything and spins with the wheel. The ignition cylinder is stuck. A few related internal components that i don't recognize have fallen out. Its pretty rough. Thank you very much for the information on the connectors, that helps alot
 

SplitSsss

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I don't see a reason why you couldn't even use from an automatic. It won't look exactly right but a lot easier to find. Take the shift lever off of it.
There are other issues using an automatic column. The housing on the automatic model rotates the shift column shaft and has the extra linkage protruding at the bottom. You can modify but it’s a compete tear down with lots of stuff to address.
That column shif housing would have to move from park to another position to work. Use a floor shift column for an easy plug and play as mentioned above.
Your damaged column has a part I need. The dimmer rod pictured in pic 3.
If you junk the old column I’d be interested in it for parts or part. I’m new and not sure if posting phone numbers is allowed but if it is I’d be more then willing to talk you through most of your concerns.
 
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Ricko1966

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There are other issues using an automatic column. The housing on the automatic model rotates the shift column shaft and has the extra linkage protruding at the bottom. You can modify but it’s a compete tear down with lots of stuff to address.
That column shif housing would have to move from park to another position to work. Use a floor shift column for an easy plug and play as mentioned above.
Your damaged column has a part I need. The dimmer rod pictured in pic 3.
If you junk the old column I’d be interested in it for parts or part. I’m new and not sure if posting phone numbers is allowed but if it is I’d be more then willing to talk you through most of your concerns.
Why couldn't a person just leave the column shifted automatic column in park. Don't connect any linkage to it. Shift your four on the floor as normal. Remove the automatic shift lever and ignore the extra lever under the hood? I can't think of a reason as far as function.
 
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xm20k

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Double check the turn signal switch plug.
GM used 2 plug lengths 3 7/8" and 4 1"8 the difference is on the last few wires (signals) are spaced wider apart. I had to swap the shorter one into mine, wires are in the same order just spaced out differently on one end.

 

bucket

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Why couldn't a person just leave the column shifted automatic column in park. Don't connect any linkage to it. Shift your for on the floor as normal. Remove the automatic shift lever and ignore the extra lever under the hood? I can't think of a reason as far as function.

What I've found from my swaps, the only real issue is the lack of the little detent lever that prevents you from accidentally turning the ignition all the way into the lock position. If you have to shut the rig off while moving, it's very easy to accidentally turn the key back too far and then the steering wheel locks while you are still rolling down the road.
 

AuroraGirl

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What I've found from my swaps, the only real issue is the lack of the little detent lever that prevents you from accidentally turning the ignition all the way into the lock position. If you have to shut the rig off while moving, it's very easy to accidentally turn the key back too far and then the steering wheel locks while you are still rolling down the road.
If you don’t mind the loss of the anti theft feature you could just remove the lock plate teeth(could the lock plate be left off?)
 

bucket

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If you don’t mind the loss of the anti theft feature you could just remove the lock plate teeth(could the lock plate be left off?)

The plate itself needs to remain. Without it, nothing will hold spring tension on the upper bearing retainer and the shaft will wobble around.
 

AuroraGirl

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The plate itself needs to remain. Without it, nothing will hold spring tension on the upper bearing retainer and the shaft will wobble around.
SO WHILE CRUDE, a bolt cutter would keep that from being an issue if you were to not care about lockig the column
 

bucket

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SO WHILE CRUDE, a bolt cutter would keep that from being an issue if you were to not care about lockig the column

Very crude, yes. Lol.

Easier would be to just shave down the little lock peg so that it cannot engage the lock plate.
 

AuroraGirl

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Very crude, yes. Lol.

Easier would be to just shave down the little lock peg so that it cannot engage the lock plate.
youre a thinker all right LOL
 

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This one was used for Caddie. Crude' Excellance'...

The bearing and race kits are affordable. Try Rock A?
Lil' paint, new spring. New turn switch...
You got this.

Cut your lock plate down to this or leave one or two of the long outer plate tines, so the wheel cannot make a full rotation when locked?
You can hack it up pretty small and it will work to hold the spring and lock ring.
 
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