Bad Combo?

[MadOgre]

You know that's what I was thinking of doing at first. Just to make sure I have the carb set up right and all that is worked out and make sure it fires up and runs without a problem.

I am a shade tree mechanic and I know things to get me by but messing with the valve train is new to me. I have never messed with springs or valves or replacing them and the seals. I do have a valve that leaks a bit of oil as it sits over night and puffs blue smoke at start up but it's very common for he motors. But for being 28 years old I might as well attempt it for peace of mind.

Right on! I think that would be the best plan despite the fact you will need 2 sets of intake gaskets.

The valve train is not that difficult. Just start a build or repair thread and we would be happy to help walk you through the process. You might end up having to purchase or rent a few specialty tools though, like a spring compressor.

I would like to verify that the ECM does not need to be utilized for anything else though before going full steam ahead

 

[RangRayy]

But won't the timing be different for stock cam vs the comp cam 12-300-4?

My older brother just got a second job at Oreillys so maybe he can hook me up with some tools and or parts.

Oh I will wait to have the facts first. I'm still trying to get the motor out of the truck as it is. So much to make unplug and remove.

 

[rich weyand]

But won't the timing be different for stock cam vs the comp cam 12-300-4?

Valve timing -- No. You hook up the timing gears so the cam is zeroed.

Ignition timing -- Not really. You can probably dial more base timing into the 12-300-4 than the stock cam. Firebane and I are running the 12-300-4 at 16* BTDC. But you can get the thing all running nice, then replace the cam, then dial in some more base timing.

 

[RangRayy]

Okay just wanted to check. This is getting up there in terms of $$$. Just pricing a few things I'm close to the 1500 mark and that's not including a distributor and wires, fuel pressure regulator, thermostat,exhaust pipes, cats and mufflers, in line fuel filter for before the carb, and probably some other misc. stuff I am missing....

I could almost but a crate package with that $$$

 

[MadOgre]

Okay just wanted to check. This is getting up there in terms of $$$. Just pricing a few things I'm close to the 1500 mark and that's not including a distributor and wires, fuel pressure regulator, thermostat,exhaust pipes, cats and mufflers, in line fuel filter for before the carb, and probably some other misc. stuff I am missing....

I could almost but a crate package with that $$$

No more need for cats! Throw those things away! You wont need an O2 sensor either. Those are items required by an ECM. No need for those with a carb!

 

[Old77]

No more need for cats! Throw those things away! You wont need an O2 sensor either. Those are items required by an ECM. No need for those with a carb!

They may still have visual inspection to insure the cats are there. Not sure when the year cut off is that cats are required in Mo but I think 87 is required to keep it licensed

 

[MadOgre]

Well gut the cats then!

 

[Old77]

that's something he'll just have to check on. If he doesn't have to have them for state inspection then by all means ditch them!!

 

[RangRayy]

No more need for cats! Throw those things away! You wont need an O2 sensor either. Those are items required by an ECM. No need for those with a carb!

I was going to run cats just for fumes but if not needed maybe save that expense.

What about a setup like this?

You must be registered for see images attach

Instead of trying to come back up over the trans cross member just run them under then back up after it. Also I thought about using a turn down out of the muffler. Ideas?

 

[Old77]

That setup pictured is very similar to that of my 77.

The turn down idea is good as long as you're aware the noise level will go up considerably

 

[MadOgre]

I was going to run cats just for fumes but if not needed maybe save that expense.

What about a setup like this?

You must be registered for see images attach

Instead of trying to come back up over the trans cross member just run them under then back up after it. Also I thought about using a turn down out of the muffler. Ideas?

That looks alright cause they are tucked up nice and close to the frame. You might be able to see them though looking at the truck from the side. So I don't know if you care about that or not. It definitely would make it a lot less hassle and a whole lot less bending that way for sure.

As for the rear exits. I have mine turned down about 24" past the mufflers and they exit just past the rear axle. It is loud. IMO they probably sound better with a more factory exit behind the rear wheels. In fact Im working on getting some factory type tail pipes for mine.

 

[MadOgre]

Also if you go with a 1/4" larger size tail pipe it helps improve flow and sounds better.

 

[RangRayy]

Also if you go with a 1/4" larger size tail pipe it helps improve flow and sounds better.

Well I was going to go with mentioned 2.25 but with the above setup will it hurt not having an X pipe?

 

[rich weyand]

Put a 2" H-pipe across, as far forward as you can.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[RangRayy]

Put a 2" H-pipe across, as far forward as you can.

You must be registered for see images attach

What is the benefit? That'll make me have to get access to a welder which I do not have.