what did I get myself into?

[MadOgre]

You know im not completely certain about that. I would lean towards no, but, maybe with a bodylift and using different size spacers as you need. or maybe its the opposite, not sure. I know they are not the same frames for sure. A guy like HotRodPC or Bucket would probably know better. I have not seen or heard of any one doing it so im not sure. I am not even certain if the truck cab will bolt on to the burb frame. But heck anything can be done it just depends on how much work your willing to do for it ?

 

[MadOgre]

In reality though if you can fix up that hack job on your 2wd frame. It is really just a matter of drilling holes to accept the 4wd brackets and bolting them on. Those rivets are grade 5, so with a cold chisel and little sledge they pop right off, then just use a punch and a little sledge and drive out the rivet. Its actually much easier then it looks. Just use grade 8 bolts when to put them back on. I cant remember, I think they are the perfect size holes for a 7/16 bolt maybe 3/8, I cant remember. I do remember that the shank of the correct size bolt fits like a glove so use a bolt that is long enough to give you a 1/4- 3/8 of inch of shank. And use grade 8 hardware.

Its just a matter of measuring correctly to place your hangers and shackle bracket in the correct location. You could even make a template to help with that.

Keep in mind that this will affect alignment and dog tacking issues. so you need to get it right.

Once those are on its just a matter of bolting everything on.

The steering box's are exactly the same except for they have different splines on there out put shaft to accept different pitman arms. So just bolt on the 4wd box and your done.

 

[HotRodPC]

WOW !!! Do your community a favor. Keep that thing in the driveway to "LOOK" pretty, but don't drive it.

 

[HotRodPC]

You think maybe I could use one of those suburban frames it's close to the same length. The rear bumper might not fit but I would use it anyway

It would be an awful lot of work if it could be done. The Burb frame also is not straight at the rear like the trucks are. There are several variables that would keep me from doing such a thing. Especially knowing how many pick up frames are around for cheap. As the norm, distance kills the deal, but I'll have an 86 C20 Frame available sooner or later. Prolly later than sooner the with the progress I'm not making lately. But, I'd say for what you should be able to find a C20 frame for, you'd save that in drill bits and grade 8 bolts alone over trying to make a Burb frame work and still not have the correct bed mounting length and have to move the spring hangers to change the wheel base.

 

[moondawg]

Thanks a lot madogre. I saw something like this on extreme 4X4 years ago but I'm real fuzzy on how exactly. I just scared I'm going to make a bad thing worse. Frakly I'm kind of excited to rip into the truck. I'm going to pull of the front clip so I don't have to use a ladder to work on the damn thing.

 

[bucket]

I think you could use the Burb frame if you wanted, but anybody that looks under it will notice it's not a pickup frame. The cab bolts right on if I remember right. The difference is the rear frame. The wheelbase will be 2 inches shorter, that could be dealt with fairly easy (compared to swapping frames or fixing what you have), but the bed will have to be mounted somehow, probably including custom made spacers. You wouldn't have to worry about adapting the saddle tanks, you could just run the rear Burb tank.

 

[moondawg]

I double posted

 

[moondawg]

Yeah bucket I'm just going to fix the frame get a new motor mount and make it a 4x4. My father in law has axles and transfer cases galore plus two fully put together 4X4 suburban chassis so I'll just Frankenstein it with the subies. I appreciate all of your feedback and help. I'll keep you guys posted on my progress. I'm rebuilding a 4 bolt 350 possibly 383 not sure yet as well. Because my "rebuilt" motor that's currently in is going to take a dump sometime soon after I fix the suspension.

 

[HotRodPC]

I think you could use the Burb frame if you wanted, but anybody that looks under it will notice it's not a pickup frame. The cab bolts right on if I remember right. The difference is the rear frame. The wheelbase will be 2 inches shorter, that could be dealt with fairly easy (compared to swapping frames or fixing what you have), but the bed will have to be mounted somehow, probably including custom made spacers. You wouldn't have to worry about adapting the saddle tanks, you could just run the rear Burb tank.

Are you shore it is a standard cab that bolts right on? It seems I heard once, a Crew Cab will bolt right on, but a Standard cab will not. Would that makes sense?

 

[HotRodPC]

Yeah bucket I'm just going to fix the frame get a new motor mount and make it a 4x4. My father in law has axles and transfer cases galore plus two fully put together 4X4 suburban chassis so I'll just Frankenstein it with the subies. I appreciate all of your feedback and help. I'll keep you guys posted on my progress. I'm rebuilding a 4 bolt 350 possibly 383 not sure yet as well. Because my "rebuilt" motor that's currently in is going to take a dump sometime soon after I fix the suspension.

Please do. Take lots of pics. I'm not 100% certain, but Burb rear spring hangers I think are different than pick ups too. This is because the rear of the Burb frame takes a dive down and does not go straight out the back. It could be that the just the rear spring hanger is different but the front rear spring hanger might be the same. Worth checking out, or at least be aware of the possibility. All the front stuff should work just fine though and that the most important part of the conversion.

 

[bucket]

Are you shore it is a standard cab that bolts right on? It seems I heard once, a Crew Cab will bolt right on, but a Standard cab will not. Would that makes sense?

You could be correct, I don't remember exactly. Maybe the reg cabs bolt onto the '73-'77 K5 frames. If I were home right now I could easily solve the mystery.

 

[HotRodPC]

You could be correct, I don't remember exactly. Maybe the reg cabs bolt onto the '73-'77 K5 frames. If I were home right now I could easily solve the mystery.

As a matter of fact, I think you just nailed it right there. Standard Cabs will fit K5 Blazer Jimmy frames, and the Crew Cab frames fit the Burb Frames. I do believe that's what I heard at one time. It's been so long now since I was involved in that disucssion, and then again, you have to wonder if what you hear is correct.
I mean afterall, look how long I was lying about the Vac Lock Up switch. Someone told me and I went to the bank with it. Never had a reason to work on it myself, so I took it for the gospel. All I know now is, I have a **** ton of ESC Tip in Vac Switches in my Trans parts box now along with wiring pigtails.

 

[J Knight]

Check out this thread, it might give you some ideas since its only the front of your truck frame is damaged.

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4491

 

[MadOgre]

Na I think its way easier to drill 11 holes per side then to do all that. He did a good job though.

The 2wd and 4wd frames are damn near identical if not identical.

 

[MadOgre]

As a matter of fact, I think you just nailed it right there. Standard Cabs will fit K5 Blazer Jimmy frames, and the Crew Cab frames fit the Burb Frames. I do believe that's what I heard at one time. It's been so long now since I was involved in that disucssion, and then again, you have to wonder if what you hear is correct.
I mean afterall, look how long I was lying about the Vac Lock Up switch. Someone told me and I went to the bank with it. Never had a reason to work on it myself, so I took it for the gospel. All I know now is, I have a **** ton of ESC Tip in Vac Switches in my Trans parts box now along with wiring pigtails.

What the heck is a ECS tip in vac switch anyway ? LOL