What have you done to your square lately??

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DoubleDingo

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Battery is only needed if she's an automatic, pop start that b*tch and let it roll.......

But anyways good to be back and see things are the same here. Did some stuff to the truck only to get it inspected for another year. Found a header blew a hole clean through it on the passengers side. Chased that leak for a few days thinking it was the collector gasket, then the header gasket at the head but nope ugh. Got a new set of headers ordered through Summit, will get em on here in a week or so when I go on call so the truck has some down time. Found one of the supporting crossmembers in the rear of the frame broke and another is completely missing, again dealing with the demons of the PO and fixing things they did. Got the oem grille back in it, thinking of going with a two tone scheme with it to match the body colors, pics to come later when/if it gets done. But yeah, it's good to be back lurking on the forums
Technically only a diesel can run without a battery, gas engines do need the spark. But yes, to start a gas engine, a manual tranny can be used to started it with a push and a pop of the clutch
 

Radiohead

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Assuming it's points ignition. And the diode pack in the alternator survives to charge another day. And if you use a newer distributor, you had another module in a Faraday bag. And so on and so forth.

Lots more to it than just bump starting. A mechanical injected diesel is your best bet, assuming you park it on a long, steep enough hill.

More fuel for having a horse and wagon to cart yourself around with post emp.
 

Sad Sack

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Assuming it's points ignition. And the diode pack in the alternator survives to charge another day. And if you use a newer distributor, you had another module in a Faraday bag. And so on and so forth.

Lots more to it than just bump starting. A mechanical injected diesel is your best bet, assuming you park it on a long, steep enough hill.

More fuel for having a horse and wagon to cart yourself around with post emp.
I have a bicycle and I need the exercise.
 

IPB13

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Would you rather I add the light lol's, or rather I don't and then it reads out as super dry and aggressive?

This is a huge problem these days. Cant say anything! Even lighthearted, without being a villain of some sort.

That's why I just say what I want to say. If people can't handle it, it ain't my problem, just like I said.
I would rather you say something constructive, or do what my mom always told me, don't say anything at all.

If you would look past the "it leaked coolant and died so an ls swap will fix it" that you have stuck in your mind you would realize I have said there are a lot of issues that the previous owner introduced into the rig, as I have mentioned several times. I have already spent enough time and money trying to fix thing, and that time and those funds would be better placed going to my swap, which was my intent when I bought the truck originally any ways.

Either way, I am done with this circular discussion, you like carb's, I don't care and will build my truck however I want.

Good day to you sir lol
 

Sgt Gus

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Got everything mounted up and wired today just got to figure out what to do with the grille I'd have to chop up the stock one pretty good to fit and it's not in great shape and is 83 hard to replace so might have to make something or maybe get another grille to chop up instead
I want to borrow your truck for a day in DFW traffic! :cool: :signs6:
 

Sgt Gus

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Borrowed a timing light with tach from a friend, broke out the multimeter, and adjusted base idle and TPS voltage on my ‘87 350TBI. I noticed a while back that a previous owner had popped the cap off the idle stop screw and played around with it at some point in the previous 40 years. I’ve got a copy of the emissions/drivability manual with instructions on how to set it back to factory so that’s what I did. After that, had to drill out some slots on the TPS sensor and bend the tab a little. Ended up with around 0.68V at idle, 4.25V at WOT which ain’t perfect but it’ll work and it’s smooth all the way through. It was 0.63 at idle and 3.8 at WOT when I first checked.

I spent some time last night working on the base idle trying and failing to get it right using the tach in the truck as a reference. The digital tach in that timing light I borrowed made all the difference.
That's great. On my list. I plan on cleaning the iacv and ck the tps. Thanks for motivation.
 

Sgt Gus

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So, we put in a new cold case radiator, black, cause daughter wants it to look mostly stock. That wasn't quite enough to help the heat issue. So, we added a 7 blade 19.5" fan on the severe duty clutch we already had in there. Replaced the lower hose 1.75-1.75" and I shoved the old upper hose (1.25") over the 1.5" inlet. Oh, there's other things like bending the trans cooler line, but I'll do a write up probably on our build page.
Daughter ran to her haircut, then work, and back and stayed about 210°, a little over. Yay!
She gets to test with AC to church tomorrow. Lol
 

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YakkoWarner

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Replaced the master cylinder over the weekend, went very smoothly once we found a bloody bench bleed kit (none of the 3 auto parts stores within the 30 minute travel radius had one!), but now I have a new problem again. My mechanic friend is pretty convinced one of the hard lines from the master to the proportioning valve has a pinhole and is leaking because there was a puddle of fluid on the floor at the front left wheel which did not come out of the hose/caliper/bleeder assembly. The pedal felt normal when taking it around the parking lot. My suspicion is that fluid might have been power steering fluid, but I'm not very good at determining it.
 

Travlr

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C
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Replaced the master cylinder over the weekend, went very smoothly once we found a bloody bench bleed kit (none of the 3 auto parts stores within the 30 minute travel radius had one!), but now I have a new problem again. My mechanic friend is pretty convinced one of the hard lines from the master to the proportioning valve has a pinhole and is leaking because there was a puddle of fluid on the floor at the front left wheel which did not come out of the hose/caliper/bleeder assembly. The pedal felt normal when taking it around the parking lot. My suspicion is that fluid might have been power steering fluid, but I'm not very good at determining it.

Take a white cloth and wipe the fluid with it. If the cloth has a pink cast it's power steering fluid. If it's still white, it's brake fluid.
Brake fluid also has a feel to it. It's not a lubricant so it doesn't feel slippery like a lubricant.
 

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