Made a new tool

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legopnuematic

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Had some nylon kicking around, so my coworker Eric and I made this tray for them in the CNC mill as he has nothing to do either.
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legopnuematic

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A modification of my yoke holder-

I had purchased one of these inexpensive laser cut yoke holders a couple years ago when I did the 12 bolt in the 79, it has seen a fair amount of use since, however because of its thickness (.235”) the squares have become heavily deformed from working on Dana 60s, 14 bolts, etc. so I made some plugs and a new handle from some 1” cold rolled.
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Plugged and welded, a suitable pipe or jack handle can be slid over for extra length, then it’s still easy to store in a toolbox.
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Ricko1966

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Tool box drawer clip. One of mine took off yesterday can't find it to save my life. But I have a cotter pin assortment,works like a champ. Way better than I expected.
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Ricko1966

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Not mine but It will be helpful to a lot of you. A brake pedal depressor for doing alignments ,checking brake lights,or one man brake bleeding. That's actually where I saw it on another forumn,a guy would push the brake pedal use the clamp,between the steering wheel and the brake pedal to hold pressure,then he'd crack a bleeder. I have my depressor for alignments and 1/2 dozen different brake bleeders. So no use to me. A cheap clamp flip the feet around on it.
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goldpack

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Not mine but It will be helpful to a lot of you. A brake pedal depressor for doing alignments ,checking brake lights,or one man brake bleeding. That's actually where I saw it on another forumn,a guy would push the brake pedal use the clamp,between the steering wheel and the brake pedal to hold pressure,then he'd crack a bleeder. I have my depressor for alignments and 1/2 dozen different brake bleeders. So no use to me. A cheap clamp flip the feet around on it.
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reminds me of my stanley bar clamps, that only squeeze shut, would spread with the rubber feet being able to flip around, ...(spring and construction are really strong and the rubber feet really grab tight, and crank down)
mine are like first editions from 1990. so only a clamp
not like these modern Irwin clamp spreader
 

legopnuematic

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Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Could also be used for a poor persons manual adjustable high idle stick.
 

legopnuematic

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Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
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225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
I will be needing a tool for adjusting the ball joint sleeves for the 10 bolt project, I decided to whip one up.

1" hex would have been better than 1¼ that I had/used, it's what I had available. But it is 4140 pre heat treated to 38-42rc, so it will be a very durable tool.
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If I feel like it I may black oxide and laser etch it
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legopnuematic

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1971, 1̶9̶7̶4, 1976, 1979,1̶9̶8̶5, 2002
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Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
Engine Size
225/6, 350 c.i., 350 c.i., 5.9l Cummins
Made a pair of housing spreader adapters, 4140 commerical heat treat.
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Ricko1966

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Next time you are throwing away a tv,radio,any thing with a plug ,preferably 3 prong or polarized. Cut off a chunk of the chord. Now put alligator clips on the cut end. Checking continuity power ground etc on a long run like tail lights etc. plug this into an extension cord now you have a super long jumper wire that will reach from the battery the back bumper. If you want to get fancy you could use a female end with alligator clips for the other end too. Another little tip you can ground one end of a long stretch of wire then check the other end for to continuity to ground. Works 99% of the time ,but occasionally you'll have a harness
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shorted to ground so that doesn't work.
 
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Camar068

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Next time you are throwing away a tv,radio,any thing with a plug ,preferably 3 prong or polarized. Cut off a chunk of the chord. Now put alligator clips on the cut end. Checking continuity power ground etc on a long run plug this into an extension cord now you have a super long jumper wire. If you want to get fancy you could use a female end with alligator clips for the other end too. Another little tip you can ground one end of a long stretch of wire then check the other end for to continuity to ground. Works 99% of the time ,but occasionally you'll have a harness
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shorted to ground so that doesn't work.
nice
 

Mr Clean

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I've been looking at adjustable truck bed removal tool, that you use your engine hoist with. The cheap Chinese ones are like 100 bucks, and says they can support 500lbs...yeah right. The good ones are about 225. I had some scrap metal laying around, went and bought 41.00 of round tube. Not quite done, but this is what I came up with. Please don't give me too much crap about the welds, it's flux core wire, and I hate that stuff, but I can't justify buying another bottle of mix gas for a welder I'm only going to use once in a while.
 

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Ricko1966

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Okay not much of a tool but. Use bread twist ties threaded through clips to pull them. Even if they get away they are easy to find. Leave the ties on until all work is done. That way if you drop it under hood you can find it. Another one, I've started using a water pik to clean small parts and carbureator passages, orifices etc.
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Mr Clean

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Got the adjustable bed lifter finished and painted. I think it came out awesome. It should do what I need it to do. Edit: I don't now why the other Pic didn't post.
 

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Mr Clean

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K10 Extra Cab w/ Proper SWB, & 85 K5 Blazer
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454 BBC, & 383 Stroker
Nice! So you're using the 4 tubes of that tool under the bed caps for lifting?
Yes, I went back and posted a Pic that shows what it does. I don't know why it didn't post with the other two...
 

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