To seal or not to seal rockers

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Meatwad

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Ive got one of my rocker panels 90% done from rust repair on my 85 crew cab. Ive left the bottom seam between the inner rocker and outer rocker tacked together. on newer cars, there are drain holes in rockers. Should I seal off the bottom seam or should I leave some areas to allow water to drain from between the inner rocker and outer rocker if there water were to ever get in there?

Thanks in advance
 

Rickf

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I would put one or two drain holes and maybe squirt some "fluid film" type anti corrosion product even though you probably don't need to worry about road salt during winter.
 

ali_c20

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Drain holes and fluid film.
I use FLUID FILM Liquid AR in rocker panels. You have to heat it up to ~115° before you spray it in. Viscosity is like thick honey and it should last ~15 years.
 

jcperformance

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Ive got one of my rocker panels 90% done from rust repair on my 85 crew cab. Ive left the bottom seam between the inner rocker and outer rocker tacked together. on newer cars, there are drain holes in rockers. Should I seal off the bottom seam or should I leave some areas to allow water to drain from between the inner rocker and outer rocker if there water were to ever get in there?

Thanks in advance
Tough call on the rocker panels. You definitely want to leave some drain areas or small gaps along that bottom seam. If you seal it up 100%, any condensation or water that finds its way in will just sit there and rot your new metal from the inside out. Most guys suggest keeping those drain points open and then hitting the inside with a good cavity wax or rust inhibitor once you're done welding.
 

bucket

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When I've replaced rockers on my own trucks, that I knew were going to see acclimate weather, I didn't even replace the inner rockers for that very issue of drainage. I simply cut out the rust and left the big openings behind.

I'm not saying to be a lazy hack like me, but yes, there definitely needs to be some drainage openings, large enough to get a garden hose in there. Moisture and debris will inevitably get in and cause rocker rust. There needs to be some way for that debris and buildup to escape and GM failed at that part of the design.

In GM's defense though, they probably never intended the bodystyle to run longer than 5 or 6 years, when they initially designed it. Imho.
 

TotalyHucked

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Agreed. Vehicles are only designed to last long enough to get them out of warranty. If I were doing rockers, I'd cut holes in the inner at least quarter sized so I could wash them out/get a tool in there to pull any debris out. As said above, then fluid film every so often to keep rust at bay
 

Scruffy49

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On a Squarebody I wouldn’t do “this”, but my gmt400 K1500 escb outer rockers are sections of cut down motorhome axle with angle iron caps. Still need to finish shaping them before final weld up. Stronger, stiffer, extra protection for the door bottoms and sills. Square or rectangle tubing would be much easier, but, a circle is stronger than a square.

Got lucky with the C10, only rust is the battery tray, mounting leg rotted through, and a big spot in the inner fender directly under it. Quick patch and new tray, easy fix. The K1500 on the other hand is a rot box…
 

ss454elco

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My opinion, definitely have drain holes. I sprayed cavity coater liberally inside my rockers when doing my resto.
 

peats

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It's no different than a door bottom . Make a drainage hole or 2 and protect the crap out of it as best as you can. Rust never sleeps (Neil Young).
 

Craig Nedrow

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I sure would like a pic, I am just ready to do this on my cab, Planned on CRC rust inhibitor, Epoxy paint, then 3M seam sealer. Is this where the outside door gasket goes?
 

goldpack

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here is a video that I watched last week. an important bit of white board drawing in the beginning concerning the inside of rails. about 5:30 he draws a frame rail. and then a rocker panel with a pinch weld

the dude is in Ohio. (apparently a fluid film shop guy,...in a shop made to do it.)

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