Footwell, rockers and cab corner replacement

[Manny84]

Hey guys, I have a 1984 Chev 4x4 that I’m currently fixing the rust on. Just wondering what you guys would suggest in the order to put these new patch panels back In for footwells, floor, inner and outer rockers and cab corners. Also any other advice to make the process go smoother as this is my first kick at the can for doing this. Thanks

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[Edelbrock]

Holy crap, I have never seen someone eat an entire steak in one bite before!

I think you bit off a lot on this one.

 

[legopnuematic]

Looks like you'll need kick panels too.

Id probably start with kick panels, inner rocker, then outer, then floor. Best to fit things together before welding anything solid to make sure your alignment and door gaps remains correct.

 

[1STLS1]

Looks like you'll need kick panels too.

Id probably start with kick panels, inner rocker, then outer, then floor. Best to fit things together before welding anything solid to make sure your alignment and door gaps remains correct.

This

Fit everything with pop rivets, Cleco fasteners or weld tacks. If you're fitting all new aftermarket fenders, doors and rust repair pieces, it's not going to be an easy job. I would almost want to use the rusty OEM sheetmetal to get the rocker and cab corner lined up together before trying to install and fit the aftermarket sheetmetal just because of how much they often need massaged to fit to begin with.

I hope you have some MIG or TIG welding skills welding thin sheetmetal.

 

[69project]

installing cab corners and rockers 1985 Chevy - Yahoo Video Search Results

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Youtube is your friend. I am just finishing up this very job. I am a complete novice at this but I would work from the outside in, meaning install the outer rocker panel first. Then do the kick panel, inner rocker, and cab corner. After that then fit the cab mount brace and cab support. I would to the floor pan last. The guy in this video gives a couple of methods to ensure the door still fits. If you have not bought the sheetmetal yet, I recommend TABCO. They claim to be US made and they are definitely thicker than other vendors selling metal. I have bought sheetmetal from NPD and TABCO for my project (85 K10 needing rockers, floor pan, cab corner, etc) and the TABCO metal was superior in my opinion. None of it fits perfect so get used to using a hammer and slicing some of it before putting the welder to it. Good luck with your project. Take your time and don't get in a rush.

 

[edgephoto]

I would get the cab off the frame. You will need access underneath to do a decent job. The key as was mentioned above is tack weld everything in place then make sure your door gaps are good. One that is the case you can weld everything in place. Do small areas at a time to limit the amount of warping you get from the heat.

I have my 1987 at a restoration shop. He replaced both rockers, inner and outer, small area of the floor, cab corners and inner kick panels. I bought one rocker NOS and the rest of the stuff came from AMD (Auto metal Direct). The body guy said the AMD stuff seemed to be the same thickness as original and it fit perfect. There is always a bit of massaging required. Remember these are mass produced vehicles and "good enough" is how they built them.

FWIW I had to replace one door too. I bought an NOS door and in hindsight I should have bought a used rust free door. The tweaking the NOS door needed to fit right was unbelievable. Rust free door and sand blasting would have actually saved me a bit of money.